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    jtd's avatar

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    Silences by Jacomo

    So many components point in the same direction: green. Galbanum, narcissus, hyacinth, hedione, lily of the valley, oak moss, vetiver. At various points in its evolution, Silences is cool, dewy, radiant, fresh, grassy, powdery, dark. Although Silences follows the traditions of both green florals (Vent Vert, No 19) and green chypres (Bandit, Ma Griffe, Miss Dior, Y) it doesn’t go the leather route. The moss balances out the florals and galbanum, but it never gets truly bitter in the leather fashion. It shares so many notes with other florals and chypres, but in the end veers smartly away from them. The drydown gets both woody and cozy with a strong cedar note wrapped in musks. Still it remains green with both a slightly peppery vetiver (that perfectly transitions from the floral/galbanum opening to the cedar) and a resinous moss.

    There’s nothing slack about Silences. It is precise and to the point at all times, yet skirts the ice-queeniness of so many green florals and chypres. Silences demonstrates the difference between cool and cold.

    25 January, 2011