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    Pollux's avatar

    Argentina Argentina

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    Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

    This is for the actual version!

    Originally published in Fragantica:

    "Compared to the one manufactured by PPR, the previous licensee of YSL, this version is what can be called a failed blend - this is, a blend failing at conveying any sense of harmony.

    As per news published in the media, the actual manufacturer - L'Oreal - wanted to modernize it but in the effort, they negatively affected the blend: top notes smell harsh maybe due to the presence of synthetic floral notes, a feeling that is amped up by the presence of synthetics; mid and base notes feel pungent to the nose, sharing the same notes with other classics that have been reformulated - maybe the presence of an aromachemical used in lieu of some essential oil/s, a note that smells like regurgitated baby's milk. In this sense, the base notes smell quite similar to that of the reformulated Magie Noire. Interesting enough, this accord in the base notes contributes at making both new versions scents that could be easily be worn by men. They are femenine scents in their top notes, but if "feminine" is a synonym for "delicate", both have lost this attribute, for wearers won't find any delicacy at all: harshness in all its development is what one feels to the nose.

    One more word of caution: if you are among the ones thinking that Opium does share mid and base notes in common with Arami's JHL, I am sorry to inform you that this is not anymore so: there is a general feeling lurking around this concept, but similarities end there, so just don't think it could be a replacement for JHL. Better stick to the original, now that Estee Lauder decided to relaunch it.

    In summary, an olfactory mess, in the same line L'Oreal did with Ralph Lauren's Polo (green). Scents gone-by that forces any good-hearted perfume aficionado taking the trouble of finding either a replacement (in the case of Polo, some knock-ofs are more honest to the original formula) or securing whichever vintage bottle is available in the market. And, in the case of plain customers, forcing them to overcome the feeling L'Oreal is playing a joke at them when in the revamped version of the box they state "... para las mujeres que no se resisten a Opium, un nuevo frasco para su Eau de Toilette de siempre" ("For women that cannot resist the temptation of Opium, a new presentation for the Eau de Toilette they have always cherished")."

    18th March, 2011

Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000