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    Bartlebooth's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Or Black by Pascal Morabito

    Or Black seems to have slipped off the cogs of the fragrance industry machine, and secreted itself in the darker recesses of its housing. Early accords are close enough to Knize Ten that you can clearly see Morabito doffing his cap to the old Austrian prince. Whereas Knize is allowed to become ever more expansive and indulgent, Morabito retains control with closely calibrated accords, always retaining the initial spirit and style. Even the more distant connection to Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme is afforded a cursory upward nod. That said, Or Black does plough its own furrow, seemingly intent on exemplifying a state of solitude.

    Softer ingredients are introduced in the base, perhaps to alleviate any perceived fragrant austerity. I sometimes wish the perfumer had been allowed to descend further into the twisted caves of his imagination and allowed Or Black to become darker still. Melancholy, dry and decidedly bleak, Morabito have produced something for nihilists, poets and geography teachers.

    23 March, 2011