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Memoir Man is my favorite Amouage. Ironic, as this fragrance perhaps feels less regal, less... uhhh... "Amouagey." (Admittedly, I have not yet tried the feminine versions of any of these, but I do own a few of their Attars and would go so far as to take these into consideration when making that statement.) While the incredible complexity of the Attars never fails to keep me mesmerized, I still return to Memoir Man when I'm looking to be enveloped in a scent that feels stunning from top to bottom. This is a liquid awakening. And it's got staying power, if medium silage.
I never tire of the opening - the coolest blast of rain-forest-chic and mint-tinged absinthe. This is the freshest, wettest, most invigorating top I have ever experienced. Logically, it's not for everyone, but this is the wormwood I saw mere shadows of in Fou d'Absinthe before finally giving up on that watery concoction. In disagreement with comments I have seen elsewhere - I would say that the top notes in Memoir Man are not short-lived. The frost on the trees might melt away, but the forest remains.
Perhaps what I most appreciate in Memoir is how the transition from top to base in not so much a temporal phenomenon as it is a matter of testing various depths of my own olfactory perception. [In other words, and as others have stated - this stuff delivers something new with each hour.] Several basenoters are frustrated with the latter phases. On me (rather, on my skin) those latter phases never fully isolate themselves. Yes, underneath the stunning GREEN accord lurks that endless darkness of incense, damp aromatic woods, and ash. But for me the resonating heat contributes to one beautiful balance, and 6-8 hours in, I'm merely drawn into these smoldering embers as if witnessing a battle - the heart of Memoir attempting to set fire to its own never-ending cool... unsuccessfully.
Gorgeous. Memoir man is incredible now in the cold, and I imagine it will be a cool tranquilizer to sun-kissed skin when I head to warmer climates. Love it. Mummify me in this stuff.
26th February, 2011 (Last Edited: 28th March, 2011)