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Soir de Lune is a throwback to a genre whose heyday was the 1970s-1980s: the heavy rose chypre. Maybe it's a tribute, maybe itís an attempt to revive a faded genre, but it lands squarely in the company of Ungaroís Diva, Sherrerís Scherrer, Lauderís Knowing, even Paloma Picassoís Paloma. Itís often compared to LíArte di Gucci, which Iíve never tried.
It is as substantial as the others in the genre, but not as pleasing. It comes off as strong but simple, blanketing but not shadowy like the best of the rose chypres. I canít actually say the balances are entirely off, but they arenít inspired. The moss seems forceful but not deep. The citrus topnotes donít lead into the rest of the perfume. The spices donít lend richness. The rose isÖwell, itís there.
SdL doesnít reach the heights of the genre that its predecessors did. Perhaps its failings are due to the restrictions on ingredients that made the older rose chypres so robust and full. Fortunately, the chypre genre is forgiving, and while not breathtaking, SdL is not unattractive from any angle.
23rd April, 2011