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François Demachy's Leather Oud could be the decade's most formidably animalic leather. The scent is a quiet colossus crowded with dark, brooding notes, most of which are downplayed by the official Dior pyramid and its falsely reassuring emphasis on woods. Far more pressing are its quantities of birch, civet and beeswax, with the oud woven throughout and seeping between interstices that widen as the fragrance dries down. This stuff oozes civet and castoreum and has powerful creamy-fecal eddies right into the drydown many hours later, along with an unshakeable tobacco vibe.
29 April, 2011