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    Oh_Hedgehog's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Leather Oud by Christian Dior

    François Demachy's Leather Oud could be the decade's most formidably animalic leather. The scent is a quiet colossus crowded with dark, brooding notes, most of which are downplayed by the official Dior pyramid and its falsely reassuring emphasis on woods. Far more pressing are its quantities of birch, civet and beeswax, with the oud woven throughout and seeping between interstices that widen as the fragrance dries down. This stuff oozes civet and castoreum and has powerful creamy-fecal eddies right into the drydown many hours later, along with an unshakeable tobacco vibe.

    My only reservation with Leather Oud concerns an escalation on its 'sweet' axis, with that beeswax note gathering momentum and developing a powerful honey-urinous character at hour four that reigns over the drydown, long after the smoke has been extinguished. After a journey so satisfying I wish my final thoughts did not orbit the fear that this might have all along been Serge Lutens' alley cretin Miel de Bois in immaculate disguise.

    Late-in-the-day pissoir connotations aside, Leather Oud is terrific.

    29 April, 2011