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    helg's avatar



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    Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    An alarming hospital top note makes one panic , long before the flowers appear. It is so akin to anti-bacterial disinfectant or mouthwash as to scare away most people. I am convinced not many stake it out for the drydown. But it’s their loss.
    Because after that phase soft flowers emerge not with the piercingly sweet nature of most tuberose fragrances , nothing like Fracas( although I appreciate the blending ) or Blonde or Herrera , which is good in my book as I get suffocated by them. Also lily is evident? That probably accounts for the softness and butteriness , I guess. And there is warmness too. A sensual drydown that is most unexpected after the initial blast.

    Like Marlen Dietrich’s name according to Jean Cocteau , but in reverse : it starts with a whip stroke , ends with a caress.
    For sadomasochists and people appreciative of The Agony and the Ecstasy

    20th September, 2005