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31 Rue Cambon for me is like an exercise of which creative direction would Coco Chanel follow if she was still alive and if she was trying to shape the heritage of Chanel to modern tastes but without falling into fads. Like her apartment on Paris, Rue Cambon seems to have everything that a classical Chanel has: aldehydes, jasmine, iris, a soft powderiness. But it doesn`t go straight into vintage lands. Instead, it takes those aspects and marry them with a sweet resinous base that is very well doused. The aldehydes on the opening are the most interesting part to me. They seem to give a different aroma to the opening according the day your nose smell it. Sometimes you`ll detect a bright citric aura paired with the beginning of a flowery bouquet, and other days they lend you to an abstract fruity aroma. The iris and jasmine on the heart of this one gave the discreet powdery and flowery aura, with a warm, barely there, indolic touch. When it reaches to the base, you`re left with a delicious sweet creamy woody aroma, with the sweet part played in a serious way, avoiding gourmand intensities and matching perfectly the soft resinous aura that you seem to get sometimes when the scent warms on skin again. For me, Rue Cambon is not purely a Chypre fragrance, having parts that would be perfectly intepreted as floral or floral aldehidic too, and where everything seems to have a kinship so natural and common to find nowadays. Rue Cambon has a elegance that is totally out of tendencies, focusing on what really matters on a fragrance: quality.
07th July, 2011