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I feel a bit like the madman in the marketplace with his lantern, but it seems time that someone said it:
Guerlain is not Guerlain anymore.
Sound like a contradiction? I'm afraid it is not, and naysayers need only sniff some of these recent Aqua Allegorica launches to be persuaded of the lamentable truth, Tiare-Mimosa being a not-so-inviting case in point. Once upon a time, the Aqua Allegoria line featured simple yet compelling niche-quality compositions focusing upon one or two beautiful central notes. All of the AAs which I acquired around Y2K fit this description, and even a few released in the early twenty-first century. What has happened since then is that all sight has been lost of what this line was supposed to be. Aqua Allegoria fragrances are now inexpensive and smell frankly cheap. They are light and blurry, inoffensive, if you will, but they are not, to my nose, bona fide Guerlain.
Tiare-Mimosa is certainly wearable enough, but there is hardly anything tiare about it, and the mimosa seems like some sort of synthetic abstract floral rendition--one which I recently detected also in Benetton GIALLO. I rest my case. QED.
For those looking for good mimosa perfumes, they do exist. Try Demeter Vintage naturals Mimosa or Bond no 9 Fashion Avenue, for starters.
21st July, 2011