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I've been ranting of late about some devolutions in the perfume world, including rampant dilution--not only by mass market producers, but also some niche brands as well--so it's certainly a relief to be able to turn to one of Andy Tauer's creations as a reminder that there is still hope. Yes, even in a world filled with meaningless and irrelevant flankers which evaporate from collective memory nearly as fast as they evaporate from the skin, in a quaint corner of Switzerland, genuine perfumes are still being made.
L'AIR DU DESERT MAROCAIN bears the unmistakeable "wild" signature of this house. Lots of complexity and depth and layers and some very heavy notes, which are however thoughtfully measured and blended. This truly unique composition is an oriental chypre with an ambergris base. Yes, that's a mouthful, and L'AIR DU DESERT MAROCAIN is indeed a noseful--but in a good way! Evernia prunastri and evernia furfuracea account for this perfume's chypre demeanor, but the spiciness imparted by coriander and cumin keep it oriental without leading the wearer inadvertently back to the kitchen. The animalic quality imparted by the ambergris is not at all unlike some leather notes I've sniffed.
A beautiful, contemplative composition, suitable for guys and gals alike who appreciate a good dark chypre, although there is definitely more here than that. Let's just say that chypre appreciation is a prerequisite to a successful encounter with this perfume. Very potent, as I find all of the Tauer creations to be. This one is marked as "eau de toilette intense," but it may as well be pure perfume, since it behaves just as well, with big sillage and excellent longevity. L'AIR DU DESERT MAROCAIN is a perfume best worn when one wishes to experience the beauty of perfume, as an event in and of itself.
01st September, 2011