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    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    Silver Bond / Andy Warhol Silver Factory by Bond No. 9

    Does anybody else see Bond, as a marketing product, as Creed with a different fetish? Both rely on a symbolism of affluence and privilege. Creed's ancestor worship, prestige and mythology-as-history give the air of a quality that only pedigree can grant. Bond relies on neighborhood chic. The brand deals the currency of privilege and exclusivity of NYC real estate in the same manner that Creed manages lineage. (Please just give me one crack in the image of either. Offal Millesime from some disavowed pervy great uncle or Bond's Gowanus Canal Superfund.)

    I'm cynical about schtick, and Bond's is ridiculous. But Andy Warhol Silver Factory is a sensational take on the incense/floral. The floral note centers on a beautifully high-pitched iris, and the incense is resinous, not at all smoky, and wonderfully sharp. This doesn't smell like church and it doesn't simply smell like olibanum oil. The shiny metallic note (silver, get it?) is the common link between the iris and the incense.

    I find AWSF quite unlike the other incense perfumes of the mid-2000s, an era that gave us some gorgeous incenses. l'Artisan's Timbuktu is a deconstruction/rebuild of incense with woods and fruit. CDG's Avignon and Heeley's Cardinal riffed on the smoky church. Jubilation XXV emphasized frankincense's voluptuousness. I find AWSF closest in approach, though not outcome to CDG 2 Man. Each takes a particular aspect of incense, CDG's smoke and flame, AWSF's metallic chill, and builds a portrait. AWSF also smartly refers to a direct predecessor, taking Bond's Chinatown's cool resinous incense base as a leaping-off point. Which leads me to my ubiquitous fandom of Aurélien Guichard, author of both Chinatown & AWSF. This guy makes some gorgeous perfumes.

    But back to Bond as a line. I spent more on Chinatown than I have on any other single perfume. These two perfumes warrant high price points, but the other 10-12 Bond's I've sniffed don't. Not by a long shot.

    09 September, 2011 (Last Edited: 10th September, 2011)