Notes that give the "old" smell in perfumes

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  1. sophi
    Hello Friends,
    This is my first topic here in Basenotes.I"d like to know your opinion about "old" scents in perfumes.There are ingredients that used to give perfumes an "old" smell like for instance carnation gave Fleur de Rocaille an excellent smell,or civet used in many "old" perfumes such as Blonde by Versace and Tabu, or peru balsam in Nahema by Guerlain.
    What is your opinion?What are those notes in particular that give perfumes the "old" smell?
    Thank you.
  2. Pollux
    I would say "powdery" is an attribute identified with "old". I cannot recall which particular EO or ingredient has this effect, but it has been widely discussed here in Base Notes.

    One more thing: the notes you mention are the result of the use of ingredients that were in fashion at certain time. Innovation makes its way and new EO and ingredients are available, thus making previous ingredients obsolete due to several reasons.

    On the other hand, people generaly appreciate things they are familiar with, for getting acquainted with innovations is costly in terms of effort. So, say, if someone is familiar with calone-based blends, judging an aldehyde-based scent will be challenging, and for sure, will be difficult to appreciate on the ground that memories will tell that person that it is the sort of scent smelt on his/her grandmother when that person was an infant.

    I hate to admit it, but the fragrance industry is built around the principles of the fashion industry.
  3. sophi
    Thank you Pollux for your reply.I Know that fashion rules.We all "old "scent lovers though ,admire of our grandmothers,and idols of that time like Grace Kelly and Audrey Herborn,we find romantic ,powdery, heavy based (civet-aldehydes based) perfumes to be dominating in our wardrobes.Don't get me wrong ,i am new here and i think i am gonna stay around for a while.Thank you very much.
  4. vintage*red
    There was a certain sophistication in the Chanels and a certain sensuality in the Guerlains that I find lacking in perfumes today. The point of perfumes was to feel glamorous and to express yourself through fragrance. (I also remember attending the theater in a full length gown, so I do understand that fragrance follows fashion.)
  5. Madame du Barry
    Civet is one of the notes in old-fashioned perfumes. That "powdery" note, on my skin, seems to evolve from violets. (They say that dead people smell like violets,oh!)
    Also - I find myself wondering when perfume houses stopped using the real deal musk?
  6. Pimpinett
    Civet most definitely, aldehydes, certain florals - carnation is often perceived as a little old-fashioned, I think - galbanum in large doses, and how about tolu balsam? Abstract and perfumery-specific notes often seem to read as old-fashioned too, it seems, that's probably why aldehydes are difficult to deal with for some people today. Contemporary perfumes are often much more "literal" in their renditions of the notes, all the fragrances that smell literally like fruit, candy, pastries or functional products (Pink Sugar, Demeter, the Clean line, etc) are good examples of that.
  7. Ms Rochambeau
    Ms Rochambeau
    galbanum and, love love! Violets too. I love vintage Miss Dior, Vol de Nuit and Coty Styx.
  8. GelbeDomino
    violets, rose, heliotrope, carnation, powder, aldehydes, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris
  9. Weimar27
    Hi Nothing is a Classic them Aldehyde queen of Classics
  10. minka
    Another to add is the clove or bandaid smell, but I love all these scents and the drydowns in the vintages. Just think of the lovely Joy, My Sin, Gucci No 3 and L'Heure Bleue with their civet, oakmoss and powder.
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