Experiment with Mitsouko and Profumo's Oak Moss and Civet

  1. Zizanie
    I have been really enjoying my first purchases from Profumo -- the animal scents kit and Oak Moss, both spectacular! I wanted to share with the Forum an experiment I did last night. On my left wrist I sprayed one spritz of Profumo Oak Moss and one spritz of Profumo Civet tincture. And then I sprayed two spritzes of Mitsouko by Guerlain (EDP strength). Then immediately after that, I sprayed two spritzes of plain Mitsouko on my right wrist.

    As you probably know, Mitsouko is regarded by many as one of the finest perfumes in history. Derived from Coty's Chrypre, Mitsouko has been in existence for almost a century and is the most definitive chypre commercially available according to many. However, over the years it has been drained of some of its life by the increasingly intrusive IFRA regulations and a general cheapening of many of the Guerlain formulas by Guerlain's new corporate owners. Specifically, Mitsouko once had animal ingredients (civet, I believe) in its based and abundant oakmoss. Recent IFRA regs have reduced the permissible amount of oakmoss in fragrances to a point that the fragrance is almost unrecognizable.

    Anyway, back to my experiment. Almost instantly, the Mitsouko sprayed on my left wrist with the added civet and oakmoss from Profumo smelled better, richer and even creamier, though it wasn't overpowering in strength. The unadulterated Mitsouko on my right wrist smelled thinner but good (even after reformulation, this fragrance still smells good, albeit thinner).

    What struck me was that the blend on my left wrist fused together into a single harmonious scent, which is the real magic of good chypre scents -- the whole is greater (and very different from) the sum of the parts. The individual notes of civet, oakmoss, peach from the Mitsouko (persicol) were replaced with a buttery almost transcendent fragrance of incredible smoothness and, as it turns out, longevity.

    My wife, sitting near me, commented on the "great smell" and I let her sniff my left wrist and then my right and she clearly liked the left better and commented on its smoothness. How interesting that the oakmoss and civet, neither of which are "smooth" or buttery alone, interacted with the ingredients in Mitsouko to produce a transformative completely unique fragrance. Maybe this is what the vintage Mitsouko smelled like.

    What fun this was! While the blend on my left wrist was not overpowering in an offensive way, it lasted easily three times as long as the plain Mitsouko on my right wrist. None of this would have been possible without the wonderful products from Profumo.
  2. abysynth
    heh I just ran off to try this experiment right away and I agree, the "modified" version of mitsouko is better (I'm actually not a huge fan of mitsouko on its own, gasp!). the oakmoss is nice, but I am again surprised at how much civet can add to a perfume. it surprises me because it's such a strange compound on its own, but when I add it to things that goes away and what's in its place is extra added depth and richness, sometimes creating a whole third unique fragrance like you mention above. transformative properties indeed
  3. Profumo
    Dear Zizania, Oak moss is a very interesting essence and I do not understand why it is not used anymore in commercial frags. I use it is some of my perfumes heavily and in over 20 years I have never heard of anyone having had an allergic reaction to it.
    It would be a good idea to develope some experiments with reformulated fragrances as you did, Rose wood in Chanel, civet in Jicky, but for now we should focus on the animal pheromones. Thank you for sharing your discovery.
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