Oud caravan n2

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  1. bluemoon
    bluemoon
    Someone I shared my sample with suggested the floral note is champaca :-) I think he might be right :-)

    The OC2 high topnote, that takes on an almost minty character here, reminds me of Borneo oils. I assume the bandaid smell may have its source in the Bengali oud. The slightly "thick", vanillic and fruity components point in the Cambodi/Thai direction. That OC2 has aspects of ouds from different regions but doesn't strictly resemble any of them is where, for me, the challenge comes in. It is easy for my imagination to try to push the scent into one of the familiar archetypes; it is more of an adjustment to accept it as a new "creation" and to try to analyze it free of preconceptions of what an oud "should" smell like. To me the idea of making an oud that smells better than oud implies exaggerating the pleasant notes, hiding or converting the "bad" ones, and adding new elements that would add to the beauty of the composition. Like Igor, I, too am partial to the "guava" note. I'm not keen on the phenol smell so that's one I'd aim to mask.

    It's not yet clear to me what "character" or "style" this oud conveys. Should the perfumer ask the "public" to make this determination, and merely be the interpreter of the public's vision? What if each member of the public wants something different? Or should the artist (I understand why you call perfumers craftsmen; maybe great craftsman are artists) seek to dissolve our preconceptions and present us with a new, unexpected and hopefully exciting vision? Perhaps I have a romantic and misguided notion that artists are visionaries- that they are able to see things we have not yet opened our eyes to; or they are able to show us familiar things in a new light- a light that makes us more appreciative and better able to understand the world around us. I believe to be able to have this vision does require humility, however to me that's different than asking for public input/involvement in the creative process. Also, in reference to what davido22 said, there's a difference between great art and art that's a commercial success.
  2. Profumo
    Profumo
    Bluemoon, your feedback is very interesting to me, I want to attempt to answer your demands.

    To me the idea of making an oud that smells better than oud implies exaggerating the pleasant notes, hiding or converting the "bad" ones, and adding new elements that would add to the beauty of the composition.
    This is also what I intend, you are perfectly right

    It's not yet clear to me what "character" or "style" this oud conveys. Should the perfumer ask the "public" to make this determination, and merely be the interpreter of the public's vision? What if each member of the public wants something different?
    In the case of the Oud Caravan project we are not trying to make a custom perfume for a public, I would do this in a different way.
    The project consists in shaping a determinate scent, Oud, letting the feedback of the general public be the main source of inspiration. This has never been attempted before.
    I know what I want to do and I explained it to the public, an “Oud better than Oud”. The fact that most of the people do not know what is a good Oud is not important, because I do. The goal that I have fixed gives me a direction, the feedback of the public makes me understand if I am threading the right path to reach the goal.

    should the artist (I understand why you call perfumers craftsmen; maybe great craftsman are artists) seek to dissolve our preconceptions and present us with a new, unexpected and hopefully exciting vision?
    Rather I would like to present the public with the authentic Oud, making it acceptable to a larger number than it would normally be. Oud is not a perfume for all. It is not easy to wear it, you must have a lion’s heart. If your inner force is weak you will not bear it. It is the perfume of the Bedouin princes of the desert. Princes they have become by conquering the cities, but Bedouins they have remained in character.
    I tamper the excess of roughness that a good oud has. A good Oud to me should be powerful and long lasting. The initial roughness is natural in a long lasting Oud but the beauty of Oud is in the heart and end smell. The head scent has to be overcome and not all have the energy for that.
    My aim is to smooth and temper the initial notes and energy. Oud is a bit like the date tree of the arabs, it is difficult yo climb to its top because of the dangerous needles of its leaves, but when you overcome this, you reach a treasure of sweetness when you get to its fruits.
    It is more easy to enjoy the shade of the date tree sitting under it than to climb it and get the dates, likewise it is more easy to smell the sillage of a person wearing Oud than to wear ti oneself.

    Perhaps I have a romantic and misguided notion that artists are visionaries- that they are able to see things we have not yet opened our eyes to; or they are able to show us familiar things in a new light- a light that makes us more appreciative and better able to understand the world around us. I believe to be able to have this vision does require humility, however to me that's different than asking for public input/involvement in the creative process.
    I am only a perfumer, I compose scents for the people, I cannot compose them without them, now and before this project. Perfumes are intended for the others, this is why others are always part of the process of composing perfumes. A perfumer always has an interlocutor during the genesis of a perfume, be it a single “evaluator” or a “board” from the company for whom it is composed, or my family and friends to whom I let smell the new perfumes that I am making in order to watch their reactions and ask their comments.
    Perfume is unlike any other mediums in this respect, you can make a film, a painting, a book or a melody all by yourself, you cannot make a perfume without the people.

    Also, in reference to what davido22 said, there's a difference between great art and art that's a commercial success.
    I would say further that in perfumery generally and also for us indie perfumers, success is much more in the ability to market the perfumes than in the goodness of the perfume itself.
  3. bluemoon
    bluemoon
    Profumo- thanks for your thoughtful reply. You’ve given me a lot to think about.

    “The project consists in shaping a determinate scent, Oud, letting the feedback of the general public be the main source of inspiration…..…….the feedback of the public makes me understand if I am threading the right path to reach the goal.”
    I will take this opportunity to reiterate my dislike of the bandaid scent. I would add some jam-y, fig-y, plum-y, “guava”-like notes, especially because the “general public” seems to be on a fruity/floral binge, and because the only ouds I’ve worn that have elicited compliments are Cambodian oils, which smell more like aged fruitcakes than medicine cabinets or barnyards. Many ouds also have a “cola” note. The inclusion of a similar note would magnify the oudiness of the scent without being offensive. I would also include wood notes that are soft, clean and on the sweet side, since the drydown of ouds often incorporate these elements.

    "Oud is not a perfume for all. It is not easy to wear it, you must have a lion’s heart. "
    I, personally, love the wild aspect of oud. For me an oud without power would be like an opera singer who couldn’t sing above a whisper.

    "I am only a perfumer, I compose scents for the people, I cannot compose them without them, now and before this project. Perfumes are intended for the others, this is why others are always part of the process of composing perfumes. "
    My guess is that basenoters are not representative of the general public, and that people who wear oud every day are not representative of basenoters.

    "I would say further that in perfumery generally and also for us indie perfumers, success is much more in the ability to market the perfumes than in the goodness of the perfume itself. 
"
    Perhaps if the public were exposed to more great perfumes their standards would be higher. However I recognize that it is unfair to ask the perfumer to take on this responsibility and to probably suffer financially in doing so.
  4. Profumo
    Profumo
    I am glad to announce that I have completed Oud Caravan N3 and send the samples today to ALL those who have commented the second version of the perfume here.
  5. Puente
    Puente
    Profumo,

    Your last comments were very interesting and I think it's given all of us something more to think about. I think I speak for all of us when I say that it is a great privilege to work on this project with you. I truly look forward to sampling Oud Caravan No. 3.

    On another note, I've been wearing both versions of Oud Caravan throughout the week. A few days ago, one of my co-workers mentioned that the smell reminded her of old books in a library (I was wearing No. 2 that day) which we both agreed is not a bad thing as the smell of old books is very comforting. There's a sense of antiquity and maturity to it that's very appealing. I've also worn Oud Caravan No. 1 a couple of times before practicing yoga. I've felt that it helps me focus a bit more on the practice and allows me to be in more of a calm, meditative state.
  6. bluemoon
    bluemoon
    Congratulations, Profumo! I am very much looking forward to trying it, and to comparing it with the previous versions :-)
  7. d.stramonium
    d.stramonium
    I don't know that my comments add that much as most of them have already been covered, but I definitely found the opening of Oud Caravan 2 to be more accessible. I also smelled the band-aid note that people had mentioned in this version. Oddly, I found I liked that note a lot. I smell it more in the few minutes after applying, in the opening. In the heart and base, I get a really tenaceous dry spicy wood scent. I enjoy it a lot, and it is more accessible, but I miss some of the force behind the first version. I can't wait to see what #3 brings! Thanks again for letting me being a part of this great project.
  8. Asha
    Asha
    Quick impression...

    Sampling La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan #2 this AM. Same smoky woodiness of #3 but drier, less ambery. Also seems more incense-like to me.

    Will write more later...
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