Gengis Khan by Marc de la Morandiere (1989)

  1. Derbyman
    Derbyman
    Woody Oriental fragrance for men launched in 1989



    Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Cloves, Nutmeg, Lavender, Mint, Juniper, Thyme, Pepper

    Middle notes: Rose, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley

    Base notes: Vetiver, Benzoin, Patchouli, Olibanum, Pine Needles.

    Most Basenoters will associate this scent with prolific Basenote legend hednic. His love of this fragrance (bearing in mind he has literally thousands of fragrances in his mind-blowing collection) always intrigued me. Whilst his love of the fragrance is undoubtedly personal being linked to memories and associations I can still safely say this is an amazing fragrance and is one of very few which has recently made me stop and think, "WOW - this has got something special going on...!"

    An immediate (and quite lazy) observation is that it smells somewhat like Jacques Bogart Witness. Whilst it certainly bears a passing resemblance to Witness it has quite a different character. Whereas Witness is deep and dense Gengis Khan has a transparency and freshness which sets it apart from other spicy fragrances I've sampled. Most people seem to mention Ginger when smelling Gengis Khan, not the dried version but fresh cut ginger root. This isn't listed on the Marc de la Morandiere website or Fragrantica as a note but I can see what people mean - there is a spicy freshness in the first 20 minutes of the fragrance's development which brings to mind the smell of freshly peeled ginger root.

    It develops in the way a well-constructed fragrance should - slowly and with all its facets displayed surely and gradually. Every 10 minutes or so a different note reveals itself until it achieves its slightly soapy drydown underpinned with the warmth of benzoin and the dryness of vetiver.

    There's a really warm, comforting vibe to this perfume which makes it very enjoyable to wear. 3-4 sprays provides note-perfect sillage and good longevity - it is easily detected on clothing long after it disappears from skin which is a good 8-10hrs in normal conditions. Kudos to hednic and his support and promotion of this outstanding fragrance - good to know it has made a re-appearance and is still worth owning and wearing. I only have a small amount (30-35ml) of the original formulation which I will enjoy wearing sparingly when the mood takes me...!
  2. PerfumeCollector
    PerfumeCollector
    After that dissertation on the assets of Gengis Khan, who can resist the temptation of getting a bottle of that juice?
    I'll be looking for that beauty like a wolf prowling for its prey. LOL
  3. Derbyman
    Derbyman
    Thanks PC - I've prowled around too for a few years and finally tracked down a used bottle on eBay for very little money - no way I'm paying a hundred or so euros on a blind buy! Hope you find some - I think you'll appreciate it!
  4. pluran
    pluran
    It's always good to hear someone at least talking about something made in 1989 :-) instead of some derivative niche thing made three years ago for $300 fucking dollars that usually isn't nearly as good as vintage designers (too many to mention) easily gotten for less than $50.
  5. Derbyman
    Derbyman
    Haha!! Too true pluran - I've lost count of things I've sampled in high-end perfume shops which have left me massively underwhelmed (and VERY glad that I hadn't parted with my hard earned cash..!). Nasomatto, Clive Christian, Amouage to name but a few....not terrible by any means but worth 200+ - I don't think so...!
  6. Colin Maillard
    Colin Maillard
    Just got my bottle last week! Love this, unexpectedly different from many others of that era, I love the bold mossy/pine vibe. And I just love that bottle, ahah.
  7. Omega1185
    Omega1185
    I'm always on the lookout for that one, but so far no luck, but you never know what gem from a bygone era you might find along the way. Case in point; I found a bottle of Dune pour Homme the other day for forty bucks, and it was a really old bottle with minimal ingredients listed, and it is amazing. That being said, some day Gengis Kahn will be mine; oh yes! I will own it! ( maniacal laugh follows.)
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