Notes that give the "old" smell in perfumes

    Notes that give the "old" smell in perfumes

    post #1 of 14
    Thread Starter 
    Hello Friends,
    This is my first topic here in Basenotes.I"d like to know your opinion about "old" scents in perfumes.There are ingredients that used to give perfumes an "old" smell like for instance carnation gave Fleur de Rocaille an excellent smell,or civet used in many "old" perfumes such as Blonde by Versace and Tabu, or peru balsam in Nahema by Guerlain.
    What is your opinion?What are those notes in particular that give perfumes the "old" smell?
    Thank you.
    Sophi
    post #2 of 14
    I would say "powdery" is an attribute identified with "old". I cannot recall which particular EO or ingredient has this effect, but it has been widely discussed here in Base Notes.

    One more thing: the notes you mention are the result of the use of ingredients that were in fashion at certain time. Innovation makes its way and new EO and ingredients are available, thus making previous ingredients obsolete due to several reasons.

    On the other hand, people generaly appreciate things they are familiar with, for getting acquainted with innovations is costly in terms of effort. So, say, if someone is familiar with calone-based blends, judging an aldehyde-based scent will be challenging, and for sure, will be difficult to appreciate on the ground that memories will tell that person that it is the sort of scent smelt on his/her grandmother when that person was an infant.

    I hate to admit it, but the fragrance industry is built around the principles of the fashion industry.
    post #3 of 14
    Thread Starter 
    Thank you Pollux for your reply.I Know that fashion rules.We all "old "scent lovers though ,admire of our grandmothers,and idols of that time like Grace Kelly and Audrey Herborn,we find romantic ,powdery, heavy based (civet-aldehydes based) perfumes to be dominating in our wardrobes.Don't get me wrong ,i am new here and i think i am gonna stay around for a while.Thank you very much.
    post #4 of 14
    There was a certain sophistication in the Chanels and a certain sensuality in the Guerlains that I find lacking in perfumes today. The point of perfumes was to feel glamorous and to express yourself through fragrance. (I also remember attending the theater in a full length gown, so I do understand that fragrance follows fashion.)
    post #5 of 14
    Civet is one of the notes in old-fashioned perfumes. That "powdery" note, on my skin, seems to evolve from violets. (They say that dead people smell like violets,oh!)
    Also - I find myself wondering when perfume houses stopped using the real deal musk?
    post #6 of 14
    Civet most definitely, aldehydes, certain florals - carnation is often perceived as a little old-fashioned, I think - galbanum in large doses, and how about tolu balsam? Abstract and perfumery-specific notes often seem to read as old-fashioned too, it seems, that's probably why aldehydes are difficult to deal with for some people today. Contemporary perfumes are often much more "literal" in their renditions of the notes, all the fragrances that smell literally like fruit, candy, pastries or functional products (Pink Sugar, Demeter, the Clean line, etc) are good examples of that.
    post #7 of 14
    galbanum and oakmoss...love, love love! Violets too. I love vintage Miss Dior, Vol de Nuit and Coty Styx.
    post #8 of 14
    violets, rose, heliotrope, carnation, powder, aldehydes, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris
    post #9 of 14
    Hi Nothing is a Classic them Aldehyde queen of Classics
    post #10 of 14
    Another to add is the clove or bandaid smell, but I love all these scents and the drydowns in the vintages. Just think of the lovely Joy, My Sin, Gucci No 3 and L'Heure Bleue with their civet, oakmoss and powder.
    post #11 of 14
    The obvious indoles of Joy give it an 'old' smell to me.
    Another thing that makes an old smell is a non-edible quality to a fragrance.
    post #12 of 14
    To me, an "old" smell in a fragrance is like acetone in the top notes - I get that mostly with vintage chypres. EL's Azuree also has that particular note.
    post #13 of 14
    Aldehydes, oakmoss- and like MaatMama says, anything non-gourmand
    post #14 of 14
    I just bought a vintage bottle of Evening in Paris and I thought it smelled like something a young girl could wear even though my mother wore it in the 1950's. On the other hand, some of the newer perfumes smell really old. I love the newer versions of Shalimar -- Ode a la Vanille, Legere, Light, Eau de Shalimar. None of these smell old to me. All of the Estee Lauder scents and Lancome scents smell old to me -- even the new ones. Marc Jacobs Lola bottles are amazing but the scent smells old to me. Young girls I meet like to go to the Body Works and buy peach, geranium, etc. These type of monochromatic fragrances remind me of my grandmother who died at the age of 89 in 1968. Old must be different for each person.
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    3/9/10 at 7:34am

    sophi said:



    Hello Friends,
    This is my first topic here in Basenotes.I"d like to know your opinion about "old" scents in perfumes.There are ingredients that used to give perfumes an "old" smell like for instance carnation gave Fleur de Rocaille an excellent smell,or civet used in many "old" perfumes such as Blonde by Versace and Tabu, or peru balsam in Nahema by Guerlain.
    What is your opinion?What are those notes in particular that give perfumes the "old" smell?
    Thank you.
    Sophi

    3/9/10 at 7:10pm

    Pollux said:



    I would say "powdery" is an attribute identified with "old". I cannot recall which particular EO or ingredient has this effect, but it has been widely discussed here in Base Notes.

    One more thing: the notes you mention are the result of the use of ingredients that were in fashion at certain time. Innovation makes its way and new EO and ingredients are available, thus making previous ingredients obsolete due to several reasons.

    On the other hand, people generaly appreciate things they are familiar with, for getting acquainted with innovations is costly in terms of effort. So, say, if someone is familiar with calone-based blends, judging an aldehyde-based scent will be challenging, and for sure, will be difficult to appreciate on the ground that memories will tell that person that it is the sort of scent smelt on his/her grandmother when that person was an infant.

    I hate to admit it, but the fragrance industry is built around the principles of the fashion industry.

    3/9/10 at 10:58pm

    sophi said:



    Thank you Pollux for your reply.I Know that fashion rules.We all "old "scent lovers though ,admire of our grandmothers,and idols of that time like Grace Kelly and Audrey Herborn,we find romantic ,powdery, heavy based (civet-aldehydes based) perfumes to be dominating in our wardrobes.Don't get me wrong ,i am new here and i think i am gonna stay around for a while.Thank you very much.

    3/14/10 at 1:05pm

    vintage*red said:



    There was a certain sophistication in the Chanels and a certain sensuality in the Guerlains that I find lacking in perfumes today. The point of perfumes was to feel glamorous and to express yourself through fragrance. (I also remember attending the theater in a full length gown, so I do understand that fragrance follows fashion.)

    3/15/10 at 6:54am

    Madame du Barry said:



    Civet is one of the notes in old-fashioned perfumes. That "powdery" note, on my skin, seems to evolve from violets. (They say that dead people smell like violets,oh!)
    Also - I find myself wondering when perfume houses stopped using the real deal musk?

    3/16/10 at 11:29am

    Pimpinett said:



    Civet most definitely, aldehydes, certain florals - carnation is often perceived as a little old-fashioned, I think - galbanum in large doses, and how about tolu balsam? Abstract and perfumery-specific notes often seem to read as old-fashioned too, it seems, that's probably why aldehydes are difficult to deal with for some people today. Contemporary perfumes are often much more "literal" in their renditions of the notes, all the fragrances that smell literally like fruit, candy, pastries or functional products (Pink Sugar, Demeter, the Clean line, etc) are good examples of that.

    3/25/10 at 8:51am

    Ms Rochambeau said:



    galbanum and oakmoss...love, love love! Violets too. I love vintage Miss Dior, Vol de Nuit and Coty Styx.

    8/16/10 at 9:41am

    GelbeDomino said:



    violets, rose, heliotrope, carnation, powder, aldehydes, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris

    8/16/10 at 10:12am

    Weimar27 said:



    Hi Nothing is a Classic them Aldehyde queen of Classics

    8/16/10 at 2:21pm

    minka said:



    Another to add is the clove or bandaid smell, but I love all these scents and the drydowns in the vintages. Just think of the lovely Joy, My Sin, Gucci No 3 and L'Heure Bleue with their civet, oakmoss and powder.

    8/16/10 at 6:00pm

    MaatMama said:



    The obvious indoles of Joy give it an 'old' smell to me.
    Another thing that makes an old smell is a non-edible quality to a fragrance.

    11/20/10 at 9:57pm

    msveronica9 said:



    To me, an "old" smell in a fragrance is like acetone in the top notes - I get that mostly with vintage chypres. EL's Azuree also has that particular note.

    12/12/10 at 2:43am

    Mrs H said:



    Aldehydes, oakmoss- and like MaatMama says, anything non-gourmand

    2/6/11 at 9:09am

    BetsyMeszaros said:



    I just bought a vintage bottle of Evening in Paris and I thought it smelled like something a young girl could wear even though my mother wore it in the 1950's. On the other hand, some of the newer perfumes smell really old. I love the newer versions of Shalimar -- Ode a la Vanille, Legere, Light, Eau de Shalimar. None of these smell old to me. All of the Estee Lauder scents and Lancome scents smell old to me -- even the new ones. Marc Jacobs Lola bottles are amazing but the scent smells old to me. Young girls I meet like to go to the Body Works and buy peach, geranium, etc. These type of monochromatic fragrances remind me of my grandmother who died at the age of 89 in 1968. Old must be different for each person.





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