Derby / Powdery Scents

    Derby / Powdery Scents

    post #1 of 10
    Thread Starter 

    I got a sample of Guerlain Derby reissue.  This was after recommendation from a thread here at BN and also reading of in top 10 masculines of Lucia Turen.

     

    I loved the middle and basenotes, but the top is too powdery for me with some incense (jasmine?) in there too. Those notes really turn me off. 

     

    A couple questions:

     

    -  Is the reissue more powdery than the original?  I can't believe this would make top 10 lists, but then maybe others like that scent more than me.

     

    -  Are there any catch phrases I should look for to avoid powder notes?

     

    Thanks..

    post #2 of 10

    That's the first time I've heard Derby being referred to powdery. I only have the original and not the reissue, so perhaps they did something with the formula that would have caused that change

    post #3 of 10

    Strange. As hednic, I don't get any powder in Derby. I have the bee bottle, not the latest woody bottle, and my stuff is still wonderful and close to vintage (in the ziggurat bottle). I doubt it could have become powdery, but then, everything is possible with reformulations.

     

    But that said, everybody has a different definition of powdery. Derby is a mix of citrus, leather, and woods - I don't know which of them may give the impression of powderiness. It is true that it doesn't seem to have any of the modern fresh synthetic notes (aquatic, woody ambers, and the like) that are common in current masculines.

     

    cacio

    post #4 of 10
    Quote:

    -  Is the reissue more powdery than the original?  I can't believe this would make top 10 lists, but then maybe others like that scent more than me.

    I was playing around with the reissue at the Guerlain counter over the weekend, but wasn't getting anything particularly powdery from it either. It's a very dense, rich scent, but it's not powdery in the same way that say L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, or something like ALoF's "Paris" is powdery.

    post #5 of 10
    Thread Starter 

    Thanks a lot for the info.  It's probably just my lack of vocabulary to decribe it.  That top note sort of reminded me of a Caswell Massey scent (either Tricorn or Newport).

    post #6 of 10

    Powdery is not a technical term and everybody interprets it in a different way. The top of the scents you mention all contain good citruses and neroli (that is, orange blossom). Modern masculines tend to have sharper or sweeter types of citruses, so the feel is quite different.

     

    cacio

    post #7 of 10
    Personally I do find Derby a bit powdery. It's one of the things I like about it.
    post #8 of 10

    I find some powder in Derby, and more evidently in the base, but it's hardly there compared to other classic Guerlains. Suggestions for alternatives:

     

    If you like the smoky (read leather) woodiness of Derby, try Morabito's Or Black. It's almost like a sparser version of Derby, since it lacks the powder and floral elements of Derby.

     

    If you prefer the jasmine and herbal elements, though, consider trying Jules by Dior. Jules, though, rests on a somewhat rich amber base instead of smoky woods. It's leatheriness comes from castoreum.

    post #9 of 10
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by deadidol View Post

    I was playing around with the reissue at the Guerlain counter over the weekend, but wasn't getting anything particularly powdery from it either. It's a very dense, rich scent, but it's not powdery in the same way that say L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, or something like ALoF's "Paris" is powdery.


    I agree. There are more powdery Guerlains than Derby. But when I think of TRULY powdery, Chanel 5 or some of the vintage Carons come to mind.

    post #10 of 10
    Thread Starter 

    I must say I'm coming around to Derby.  I have to change my mindset about the topnotes.  The connotation has turned from a negative "powdery" feel to an addictive scent that's sort of barbershop.  Maybe not the best description.  But there's a green resonance in the middle that is just coming on that is working with those top notes.  Then I'm getting a hint of some wood in the basenotes.  It's complex but not overwhelming.

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    5/16/13 at 8:47am

    DanHD said:



    I got a sample of Guerlain Derby reissue.  This was after recommendation from a thread here at BN and also reading of in top 10 masculines of Lucia Turen.

     

    I loved the middle and basenotes, but the top is too powdery for me with some incense (jasmine?) in there too. Those notes really turn me off. 

     

    A couple questions:

     

    -  Is the reissue more powdery than the original?  I can't believe this would make top 10 lists, but then maybe others like that scent more than me.

     

    -  Are there any catch phrases I should look for to avoid powder notes?

     

    Thanks..

    5/16/13 at 10:18am

    hednic said:



    That's the first time I've heard Derby being referred to powdery. I only have the original and not the reissue, so perhaps they did something with the formula that would have caused that change

    5/16/13 at 3:07pm

    cacio said:



    Strange. As hednic, I don't get any powder in Derby. I have the bee bottle, not the latest woody bottle, and my stuff is still wonderful and close to vintage (in the ziggurat bottle). I doubt it could have become powdery, but then, everything is possible with reformulations.

     

    But that said, everybody has a different definition of powdery. Derby is a mix of citrus, leather, and woods - I don't know which of them may give the impression of powderiness. It is true that it doesn't seem to have any of the modern fresh synthetic notes (aquatic, woody ambers, and the like) that are common in current masculines.

     

    cacio

    5/16/13 at 3:59pm

    deadidol said:



    Quote:

    -  Is the reissue more powdery than the original?  I can't believe this would make top 10 lists, but then maybe others like that scent more than me.

    I was playing around with the reissue at the Guerlain counter over the weekend, but wasn't getting anything particularly powdery from it either. It's a very dense, rich scent, but it's not powdery in the same way that say L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, or something like ALoF's "Paris" is powdery.

    5/17/13 at 8:10am

    DanHD said:



    Thanks a lot for the info.  It's probably just my lack of vocabulary to decribe it.  That top note sort of reminded me of a Caswell Massey scent (either Tricorn or Newport).

    5/17/13 at 8:39am

    cacio said:



    Powdery is not a technical term and everybody interprets it in a different way. The top of the scents you mention all contain good citruses and neroli (that is, orange blossom). Modern masculines tend to have sharper or sweeter types of citruses, so the feel is quite different.

     

    cacio

    5/17/13 at 9:02am

    Marais said:



    Personally I do find Derby a bit powdery. It's one of the things I like about it.

    5/18/13 at 5:50am

    Mr. Bon Vivant said:



    I find some powder in Derby, and more evidently in the base, but it's hardly there compared to other classic Guerlains. Suggestions for alternatives:

     

    If you like the smoky (read leather) woodiness of Derby, try Morabito's Or Black. It's almost like a sparser version of Derby, since it lacks the powder and floral elements of Derby.

     

    If you prefer the jasmine and herbal elements, though, consider trying Jules by Dior. Jules, though, rests on a somewhat rich amber base instead of smoky woods. It's leatheriness comes from castoreum.

    5/18/13 at 8:46am

    NineInchNell said:



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by deadidol View Post

    I was playing around with the reissue at the Guerlain counter over the weekend, but wasn't getting anything particularly powdery from it either. It's a very dense, rich scent, but it's not powdery in the same way that say L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, or something like ALoF's "Paris" is powdery.


    I agree. There are more powdery Guerlains than Derby. But when I think of TRULY powdery, Chanel 5 or some of the vintage Carons come to mind.

    5/24/13 at 10:11am

    DanHD said:



    I must say I'm coming around to Derby.  I have to change my mindset about the topnotes.  The connotation has turned from a negative "powdery" feel to an addictive scent that's sort of barbershop.  Maybe not the best description.  But there's a green resonance in the middle that is just coming on that is working with those top notes.  Then I'm getting a hint of some wood in the basenotes.  It's complex but not overwhelming.