I've been lurking for awhile but have just started out with actually getting my hands dirty - actually I'm fairly new to learning more about fragrances in general - but I'm having a lot of fun and learning a lot in the process (like to keep diluting delta damascone until it stops smelling like grapes or you'll regret it). I got some materials from PA about a week ago and after a bit of testing, I came up with a first shot of something that I actually really like for the most part (the opening leaves a lot to be desired but the drydown is definitely something I like a lot). The issue is that longevity on my skin is pretty poor - after maybe 4 hours I'm left with nothing but a very faint skin scent. However, I can still smell it strongly on a strip well over 24 hours later.
Here's the probably vital information:
- I used about 10% IPM and 90% DPG as a carrier, with nearly 40% fragrance concentrate (we only have the 151 everclear here, so I was going oil-based)
- I only mixed this early yesterday morning, so there has been basically zero time to mature/meld
- I focused on base notes, going for heavy wood/leather, supported by (synthetic) oud, tobacco, tonka, and a bit of an amber vibe. This included Iso E Super, Norlimbanol, Safraleine, and Suederal, as well as Patchouli/Synthetic Oakmoss/Vetiver, and ~5% various musks in the concentrate.
- My proportions skewed pretty far into the base/heart notes (only about 15% top notes), I'm not looking to sell this ever, it's just for personal use so a strong opening is not as important to me.
I would have thought that the oil base would have sacrificed some projection for better longevity, but I'm not getting much of either. I've since ordered some perfumer's alcohol and will experiment with that soon, but I'm definitely a little confused. I was under the impression that the maturation process was largely to allow the alcohol smell to dissipate, so I thought it would be less important for an oil base, but am I missing something here? Is this likely to actually get stronger if I exercise some patience and leave it alone for a week or two, or is this more just an issue of using oil as a carrier instead of alcohol? I considered the thought that I might be just sledgehammering my olfactory sensors so hard that I'm habituating to the smell extremely quickly, but if that was the case I think my wife/mother in law would have commented on it being overly strong.
Once I figure this out, I'll want to get everyone's thoughts on what direction to go with the top notes... I'm not sure what I want over the leather/wood, but it turns out that it's not bergamot and black pepper.
Thanks in advance and apologies for the novel, clearly I have a lot to learn. I can post more specifics about actual ingredients/proportions/concentrations if that helps to diagnose what's going on.