"Considering its muse, the scent could have been called Iris Gris. But for Ralf Schwieger, the first hurdle was steering clear of the N°19 template: he clears it by using a different type of greenness: star anise spans the spectrum from day-glo green to burnt umber liquorish. Ambrette shoots its limpid, iced-vodka light into the blend. Schwieger has worked in layers of pastel and charcoal strokes, the irisâ€™s powdery texture blurring into a haze of incense over a petal-thin suede base. The effect is a texture both delicate and tough, flecked with the burnt smells of clove and oud, rooted in earth and flint."