A list of the most essential aroma chemicals in fine fragrances

    A list of the most essential aroma chemicals in fine fragrances

    post #1 of 146
    Thread Starter 

    This list is intended as a starting point for aspiring DIY-perfumers into the world of synthetic molecules.

    There is a great suggestion from Chris to split the purchase into 4 parts. JEBeasley added descriptions for every material listed from TGSC, find out more about any of these molecules with this search engine. Julian35 compared the list to J.C. Ellena's list.

     

    This is the final version:

     

    Aldehyde C8

    Aldehyde C10

    Aldehyde C11

    Aldehyde C12 lauric

    Aldehyde C12 MNA

    Aldehyde C14 (gamma Undecalactone) Peach Aldehyde

    Aldehyde C16 (Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate) Strawberry Aldehyde

    Aldehyde C18 (gamma Nonalactone) Coconut Aldehyde

    Allyl Amyl Glycolate

    Ambrettolide

    Ambrocenide

    Ambroxan (or other trade name)

    Amyl Acetate

    Amyl Salicylate

    Anisaldehyde

    Aurantiol

    Benzaldehyde

    Benzyl Acetate

    Benzyl Salicylate

    Calone

    Cashmeran

    Castoreum Replacement

    Cedramber

    Cinnamic Aldehyde

    Cinnamyl Alcohol

    Cis Jasmone

    Cis-3-Hexenol

    Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate

    Citral

    Citronellol

    Civet Replacement

    Coumarin

    Cyclamen Aldehyde

    Damascone alpha

    Dihydromyrcenol

    Dimetol

    Ebanol

    Ethyl Butyrate

    Ethyl Linalool

    Ethyl Maltol

    Ethyl Vanillin

    Ethylene brassylate

    Eugenol

    Exaltolide

    Farnesol

    Fixateur 505

    Floralozone

    Florhydral

    Galaxolide

    Geraniol

    Geranyl Acetate

    Hedione

    Helional

    Heliotropin (or Veratraldehyde as replacement)

    Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde and/or Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

    Hydroxycitronellal

    Indole

    Ionone Alpha

    Ionone Beta

    Iso Bornyl Acetate

    Iso E Super

    Kephalis

    Lilial

    Limonene

    Linalool

    Linalyl Acetate

    Mandarin Aldehyde

    Melonal

    Methyl Anthranilate

    Methyl Benzoate

    Methyl Ionone

    Methyl Iso Eugenol and/or Methyl Diantilis (Iso Eugenol replacements)

    Methyl Laitone

    Methyl Pamplemousse

    Musk Ketone

    Nectarate

    Nerol

    Norlimbanol

    Oranger Crystals

    PADMA (Phenylacetaldehyde Dimethyl Acetal) 

    Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

    Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

    Phenylacetaldehyde

    Raspberry Ketone

    Rose Oxide

    Safraleine

    Sandela

    Santaliff

    Styrallyl Acetate

    Terpineol Alpha

    Tonalide

    Triplal

    Vanillin

    Velvione

    Veramoss

    Vertenex

    Vertofix

    Vetiveryl Acetate

     

    ---- Original comment that lead in the first draft ----

     

    I think it could be great have a list as sticky. Just the most basic and versatile ones.

     

    I have merged Chris' (from gandhajala's post) list and David's suggestions, plus my own, and alphabetized them for ease of looking up.

     

    Please add and subtract! Let's try to keep it trim. No naturals, please. Please think twice about bases, if it is an alternative to a readily available natural, it has essentially no place here in my opinion.

    Restricted materials do have a place here. Banned ones do not.


    Edited by gido - 9/10/13 at 11:21am
    post #2 of 146

    My additions in alphabetical order:-

     

    Aldehyde C10

    Aldehyde C12 lauric

    Ambrocenide

    Amyl Acetate

    Damascone alpha

    Ethyl Butyrate

    Lilial

    Methyl Benzoate

    Methyl Iso Eugenol

    PADMA (Phenylacetaldehyde Dimethyl Acetal) 

    Phenylacetaldehyde (50.0% in PEA)

    Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

    Tonalide

     

    Some may say that some of these aren't basic enough; I would say that they are.

    post #3 of 146
    Thread Starter 

         Quote:

    Some may say that some of these aren't basic enough; I would say that they are.

     

    Yes, I am aware of that problem. And some perfumers might prefer V and Y over U, W and Z while they're used for more or less the same thing, which do you put in the list? To put them as a single line might solve things like V or U, you will need either one of them. I think if we all put our minds to it, add and edit things out, with arguments when necessary, this list could become of great value to novices and advanced beginners.

     

    Thanks for your support.


    Edited by gido - 6/3/13 at 6:44pm
    post #4 of 146

    As a bona fida  Aroma chem Novice I'll stick my neck out: This is a great idea but a starting point of almost 100 is daunting.

     

    When struggling and becoming wholly disheartened and confused CB kindly advised me to start with and explore Hedione and Iso E  then build.

     

    I now have and am tentatively using and still making  mistakes but learning with probably about 20 in total from that list. Some I have as yet barely touched on at all.

     

    With the greatest respect: if this is aimed at those in the early stages of working with Aroma chems the grouping and some ordering of these components would be very useful.

    eg. Musks. If just one, which is the best all rounder?

    Then in order which additional 2 would come next to make a Musk accord /base and briefly why? Light, rich, fruity, dry, velvety and so on.

     

    So far Methyl & Gamma Alpha Ionone, Geraniol and Aurantiol for example I'm finding extremely forgiving and pretty much idiot proof.

    If persons of far more knowledge than I could highlight one of each group as a starting point it would probably make for easier assimilation.

    All this is of course out there both on the net and in books but if there's to be a ref' thread on here as a kind of primer it needs prioritisation.

     

    I am a long way from being a Perfumer but as a Teacher/Trainer of more years than I care to mention regarding presentation of information, for what it's worth, that's my two pence.

    post #5 of 146

    ......and thanks Gido for coming up with this. Generous, thoughtful and potentially a real lifeline for Newbies and Elementary level alike.

    post #6 of 146

    Three more.

    Aldehyde C 14 (gamma Undecalactone) Peach Aldehyde

    Aldehyde C16 (Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate) Strawberry Aldehyde

    Aldehyde C18 (gamma Nonalactone) Coconut Aldehyde

     

    I quite understand the qualms raised by Pickledtink; faced with such a list from the beginning IS intimidating.   It really depends what the list is going to be used for.   As a reference of the basic materials I think it is justified.   Perfumers have a palette of several thousand chemicals and oils to work with; and you have to start somewhere.   My views of Perfumery education seem not to be too popular with some, the less patient, who want to get going makes perfumes.   I have written many times now, that the first thing a beginner MUST do is learn the smells.   It is vital to understand the odour and performance characteristics of the materials you are going to use.   As chemicals are simpler in the way they behave it is better to start with them.   Having this list, is the perfect reference to get going.   It takes time, but is well worth the effort.

     

    Possibley once the list has been finalised, we can start grouping them into smaller chunks.   


    Edited by David Ruskin - 6/4/13 at 2:06am
    post #7 of 146
    Thread Starter 

    That is the idea.

     

    Ideally, it would be like language basics, the means to simply communicate what you need to say, perform like a solid foundation, act like a springboard without drowning the novice (by overkill).

     

    Categorising them might be helpful, but I am not sure how. My best guess is by odour families. How do they do it at perfumery school? My own idea was to list something of a general purpose for each of them.

     

    What do you think?

    post #8 of 146

    The trouble with any categories is that they are in the opinion of the person ordering the list. I like the idea of a purpose in brackets after them or something.

    It is impossible to know what someone might need in what order. A super master list. Thanks Gido.

    post #9 of 146
    Thread Starter 
    Originally Posted by mumsy View Post

    The trouble with any categories is that they are in the opinion of the person ordering the list. I like the idea of a purpose in brackets after them or something.

     

    That's true, at least for me it is. When looking up some categorising done by the masters, a few years ago, there were a few surprises for me!

     

    I wonder if the big institutes have some sort of classification system or that this knowledge only exists in a more organic way, in the memories of the perfumers.

    post #10 of 146
    Thread Starter 

    I am hoping for more additions and subtractions by other members!

     

    Here is the complete list so far,

     

    Aldehyde C8

    Aldehyde C10

    Aldehyde C11

    Aldehyde C12 lauric

    Aldehyde C12 MNA

    Aldehyde C14 (gamma Undecalactone) Peach Aldehyde

    Aldehyde C16 (Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate) Strawberry Aldehyde

    Aldehyde C18 (gamma Nonalactone) Coconut Aldehyde

    Allyl Amyl Glycoate

    Ambrettolide

    Ambrocenide

    Ambrofix or Ambroxan

    Amyl Acetate

    Amyl Salicylate,

    Anisaldehyde

    Aurantiol

    Benzaldehyde

    Benzyl Acetate

    Benzyl Benzoate

    Benzyl Salicylate

    Calone

    Cashmeran

    Castoreum Replacement

    Cedramber

    Cinnamic Aldehyde

    Cinnamyl Alcohol

    Cis Jasmone

    Cis-3-Hexenol

    Citral

    Citronellol

    Civet Replacement

    Coumarin

    Cyclamen Aldehyde

    Damascone alpha

    Dihydromyrcenol

    Dimetol

    Ebanol

    Ethyl Butyrate

    Ethyl Linalool

    Ethyl Maltol

    Ethyl Vanillin

    Ethylene brassylate

    Eugenol

    Exaltolide

    Farnesol

    Fixateur 505

    Floralozone

    Florhydral

    Galaxolide

    Geraniol

    Geranyl Acetate

    Hedione

    Helional

    Heliotropin

    Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

    Hydroxycitronellal

    Indole

    Ionone Alpha

    Ionone Beta

    Iso Bornyl Acetate

    Iso E Super

    Kephalis

    Lilial

    Limonene

    Linalool

    Linalyl Acetate

    Melonal

    Methyl Anthranylate

    Methyl Benzoate

    Methyl Ionone

    Methyl Iso Eugenol and/or Methyl Diantilis

    Methyl Laitone

    Musk Ketone

    Nectarate

    Nerol

    Norlimbanol

    Orange Power

    Orange Terpenes

    Oranger Crystals

    PADMA (Phenylacetaldehyde Dimethyl Acetal) 

    Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

    Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

    Phenylacetaldehyde (50.0% in PEA)

    Rose Oxide

    Safraleine

    Santaliff

    Terpineol Alpha

    Tonalide

    Vanillin

    Velvione

    Veramoss

    Vertenex

    Vertofix


    Edited by gido - 6/29/13 at 6:43am
    post #11 of 146

    Not the authority, but wondering about methyl laitone, ethyl vanillin, iso eugenol, leaf alcohol, habanolide, and methyl diantilis? The only claim here is subjectively seeing them pop up often, not any actual sense of their use. Vetiver acetate probably doesn't belong, but that one does pop up too. Please ignore these to the extent they are incorrect.

    post #12 of 146
    Thread Starter 

    I thought that Methyl Laitone was on the list, but apparently isn't, I will add it. Ethyl Vanillin and Leaf alcohol are on the list. I have been thinking about Iso Eugenol (I love that stuff) and you suggest Methyl Diantilis as well. But we already have Eugenol and Methyl Iso Eugenol. Those four are far to close to one another to have them all. Which of these are the most essential? I would have selected Eugenol and Iso Eugenol myself but Eugenol and a less restricted one might be better. I would like to hear opinions on this.

     

    I cannot judge Habanolide since I do not have it. What about Muscone or even some musk tonkin base?

    And what about Fixateur 505? It's a very different and valuable approach to Ambergris than Ambroxan.
     


    Edited by gido - 6/4/13 at 11:35am
    post #13 of 146
    Cashmeran ?
    post #14 of 146