Sample of the Day - June 2013

    Sample of the Day - June 2013

    post #1 of 20
    Thread Starter 

    Starting off the month with my first ever sample from the Diptyque line; L'Ombre Dans l'Eau EDP. This one was recommended to me by the lovely cello way back in August 2011, when l mentioned that l'd love to find a perfume with an authentic tomato leaf note. And l must admit that the name; "The Shadow in the Water", fascinates me.

     

    This does indeed start off intensely green, vegetal & almost sharp. l get mainly blackcurrant buds & leaves along with grapefruit to begin with, but the tomato leaf is certainly there. After an hour or so, as this accord begins to fade, a subdued, dark rose appears. The rose seems to peer out from the deep, damp shade of this summer garden, while the blackcurrant bushes & tomato vines take the full heat & dryness of the sun. After six hours, the tomato leaf dominates, although it's not quite the smell of my grandfather's greenhouse, which is what l hoped for. l think it needs less blackcurrant & more earth to evoke that special scent from my childhood.

     

    An incredibly realistic evocation of a real English garden on a hot summer's day, this is far from my usual summer wardrobe of tropical florals & big white floral fragrances. l'm not sure it's really "me", but it's certainly interesting & very clever. l give it four stars.

    post #2 of 20

    oh, good to hear you enjoyed it teardrop!  Yes, it is a bit different, and maybe not something I would enjoy often, but a certain times it can be magical! 

    post #3 of 20
    Thread Starter 

    Thanks cello! vrolijk_26.gif

     

    Today l tried lnvasion Barbare by Parfums MDCI. This one was recommended to me some time ago by L'Aventurier in his "Personality Questions" thread. And again, l love the name.

     

    ln the opening l get citrus, lavender & something suspiciously like cocoa. As the fragrance evolves, it becomes more woody, peppery & herbal, with a steadily strengthening note of patchouli. Reading the notes back, l see that cardamom & ginger are listed, & although l can't pick them out individually here, l can see how they combine to produce a spicy yet fresh accord in the heart. And the idea of an "oriental fougere" suddenly makes sense to me. After thirty minutes or so, the whole thing morphs again into a wonderfully smoky, powdery, rich vanilla along with musk, & the patchouli which remains right through the drydown. l can't comment on the longevity as l needed a shower after doing my chores today, but six hours in it was still humming along nicely.

     

    This is another very interesting fragrance which l feel warrants several wearings to understand the genius of its execution. To combine impressions of freshness with warmth, & lightness with weight in this way, without any feeling of imbalance or incongruence, seems to me extraordinarily clever. l think this one would be wearable for pretty much any season or occasion; it simply smells "good". And although many reviewers describe it as being very masculine, l see no reason at all why a woman could not wear this. l'm leaning towards five stars here, if only it wasn't so expensive...

    post #4 of 20

    Yesterday I finished off my sample of Huitieme Art Naiviris

     

    This is a lovely close wearing, softly sweet, softly woody iris.  It is not overtly rooty, but does offer a hint of makeup-like smell.  It is not a moody one, say like ISM or even Hiris, but in fact it is almost happy in nature.  I thought the fragrance smelled wonderful, although the longevity was mediocre. It was fairly linear also.  Worth an iris fans attention and sniff, but it did not turn my head too far beyond enjoying my sample.

    post #5 of 20
    I agree with your assessment of Naiviris. On me it is very much a skin-scent, but quite lovely.
    post #6 of 20

    Yes, Curly11, it is a nice one, but ultimately I wonder if I would get bored with it.

     

    Last night I sampled Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours to finish off my sample. So this was a second wearing. Very simply, this is a story of two predominate notes to me - immortelle and soft leather.

     

    I very much enjoyed this fragrance. I smelled the immortelle right off the bat, and to me, it runs all the way through this fragrance. It is especially prevalent in the drydown though - a big, thick maple syrup smell. There is a hint of floral in there, but I could not really indentify it other than to say floral. The leather is smooth rather than harsh, although up close on the skin you get the gasoline hint, but this is lost in the aura of the fragrance. There is a boozy aspect, but it is not really thick or syrupy feeling, which I appreciated because I think that would have put this one over the top in combination with the immortelle. Final drydown was dry and woody, myrrh added to the mix.

     

    I think this is an excellent leather fragrance if you like your leathers on the sweetish side, but not overtly so. The immortelle is a facinating mix, and I enjoyed the note here very much.


    Edited by cello - 6/6/13 at 11:58am
    post #7 of 20
    Thread Starter 

    Today l tried Good Girl Gone Bad, by By Kilian. Although, like many others, l am not enamoured with the name, it was the mention of "toxic narcissus" in the notes listed on Perfume Shrine that gave me the urge to try this one.

     

    l get just a touch of aldehyde in the opening, along with an intense floral accord; mainly jasmine, to my nose. There is a tropical feel to this accord, & l swear l detect quite a bit of coconut here. The projection is pretty powerful on my skin, & as it warms, the osmanthus lends a fruity edge, which is not too jammy or cloying. The tuberose is there also, but is not at all dominant. l don't get any rose, or even narcissus, but no matter, this is a honeyed, full-bodied & voluptuous floral, with a subtle woodiness from the cedar. After a couple of hours, it all dries down into a creamy, sweet, honeyed, ambery floral, that reminds me a little of Mahora. Ten hours in it's still projecting softly.

     

    This one has been knocked quite a bit for being a little too much of the "good girl", & not much of the bad. And l agree; for a taste of what a fragrance with this name should have smelled like, go & try Lush's vastly cheaper Sikkim Girls. That said, l have enjoyed wearing this, & l do feel incredibly womanly & feminine in it, & so it can't be all bad! l probably wouldn't spend the money required to buy it, though.

    post #8 of 20

    will be sampling more from my samples in the shoebox

    post #9 of 20

    TonyT, be sure to share your thoughts with us!

     

    This weekend I dug up the bag of samples I had ordered from Imaginary Authors.  So far I have only smelled 3 of them, and I really liked Memiors of a Trespasser.  But the two I tried this weekend were both failures on me.

     

    Imaginary Authors The Soft Lawn - I believe meant to evoke a grass tennis court experience, including a note of freshly opened tennis balls per the note list, this one was a must sample for me.  I am an avid tennis player and fan, so was very excited to try this.  It is green, but instead of a pleasant green, it was sour on me.  This could possibly be the ivy note, which does not always work for me, but I honestly mostly smelled sour green, and a smell similar to sweat - like the sheen of persperation on a hot and windy day.  Not bad BO, but just rather unfresh.  I did not really get a clear accord of tennis ball can, but I suppose if I tried really hard, I could imagine that it was there. 

     

    I can't say it does not fit the billing entirely, but this one was just not pleasant for me. 

     

    Imaginary Authors Violet Disguise - This opened up with candied dried fruit of a soft wood.  And then just kind of sat there.  It got less sweet and slightly drier, and it was a pleasant wood accord, but ultimatley I felt it rather unfinished and plain. 

     

    I'm still looking forward to the rest of this line, but only 1 out of 3 have I enjoyed so far. 

    post #10 of 20
    Thread Starter 

    Thanks for posting these cello! l still haven't got around to trying any of these apart from Memoirs, & l'm interested in your thoughts on them.

    post #11 of 20

    to cello, imaginary authors really only has 1 that intrigues me which is Bull's Blood.I am not in a big rush to sample it. still have bond's, l'artisan's, and other niche I must sample first.

    post #12 of 20
    Thread Starter 

    Today l tried Honour Woman by Amouage. l was keen to see what this house could do with a white floral - one of my favourite genres - & intrigued having read that it was inspired by Puccini's Madame Butterfly.

     

    ln the opening l get a fresh, cool, slightly tart note of rhubarb, supported by a white floral accord, & reminiscent of Byredo's beautiful La Tulipe. Sadly, this quickly fades, leaving a kind of musty lily, & no detectable tuberose, gardenia or jasmine, to my nose. Two hours in, there's a creamy, ambery sweetness, & then a subtle smidgeon of vetiver in the base. Seven hours in, it's almost gone.

     

    This is not an altogether unpleasant scent, but l found it disappointing for it's lack of depth, complexity & projection. After that lovely opening, it all falls rather flat & quiet, & does no justice to the beauty of white flowers at all. Certainly not worthy of the price, or, l would say, the name. lf you love the opening of this one, l highly recommend you try La Tulipe; it sustains its beauty for far longer, while being quite a bit cheaper.

    post #13 of 20
    Thread Starter 

    Today l tried Datura Noir by Serge Lutens. 

     

    The opening is very similar to that of MPG's Secrete Datura; tonka along with a white floral accord; but there's a fruity overtone to this one. l get hints of bitter almonds & a glimpse of tropical foliage, before the whole thing softens into a smooth, coconutty floral. l don't detect any further development, & l don't get the tuberose that many other reviewers mention. The projection is low, & it all fades after five hours.

     

    This is a pleasant fragrance, but doesn't suggest anything seductively poisonous to me, as one might expect from the name. For me, Secrete Datura captures that vibe far more successfully.

     

    ....and l'm all out of samples for the time being. Please keep this thread going people, & l'll be back when l've got some more. ln the meantime l'm going to revisit some for the Back of the Wardrobe thread, as well as enjoying what l have for a while.

    post #14 of 20

    Teardrop, I can't believe you are out of samples!   Thanks for the writeups, and we will look forward to more!

     

    Today I wore L'Artisan Mure et Musc Extreme. I have had a couple of samples for a long time, and have even tried this once I think, but could not recall much. I'm not usually a musk fan, so it never rose to the top of the sample heap.

     

    This is rather straight forward berry over musk. The berries are not dripping in syrup sweetness, but there is a general sweetness to the berry combo. The musk starts out rather clean, but towards the drydown it does develop a little dirtiness, just a smidge. Overall, this is comfortable if you can handle a dollop of sweetness. I enjoyed the day in it.


    Edited by cello - 6/28/13 at 5:30am
    post #15 of 20
    ELDO Rossy de Palma. Must buy this asap! I've had this sample for a couple of years now and it never really grabbed me, but for some reason today, it did.

    I knew there was a reason for hoarding all these samples grin.gif
    post #16 of 20

    I sampled (and wore) Atelier's Orange Sanguine today. It's one of the best citruses I've tried as I like how mellow the orange is. I do have a little issue with longevity, but I guess that's why they sell enormous bottles.

     

    I'll probably end up buying this one.

    6/4/13 at 8:21am

    teardrop said:



    Starting off the month with my first ever sample from the Diptyque line; L'Ombre Dans l'Eau EDP. This one was recommended to me by the lovely cello way back in August 2011, when l mentioned that l'd love to find a perfume with an authentic tomato leaf note. And l must admit that the name; "The Shadow in the Water", fascinates me.

     

    This does indeed start off intensely green, vegetal & almost sharp. l get mainly blackcurrant buds & leaves along with grapefruit to begin with, but the tomato leaf is certainly there. After an hour or so, as this accord begins to fade, a subdued, dark rose appears. The rose seems to peer out from the deep, damp shade of this summer garden, while the blackcurrant bushes & tomato vines take the full heat & dryness of the sun. After six hours, the tomato leaf dominates, although it's not quite the smell of my grandfather's greenhouse, which is what l hoped for. l think it needs less blackcurrant & more earth to evoke that special scent from my childhood.

     

    An incredibly realistic evocation of a real English garden on a hot summer's day, this is far from my usual summer wardrobe of tropical florals & big white floral fragrances. l'm not sure it's really "me", but it's certainly interesting & very clever. l give it four stars.

    6/4/13 at 11:39am

    cello said:



    oh, good to hear you enjoyed it teardrop!  Yes, it is a bit different, and maybe not something I would enjoy often, but a certain times it can be magical! 

    6/5/13 at 12:40pm

    teardrop said:



    Thanks cello! vrolijk_26.gif

     

    Today l tried lnvasion Barbare by Parfums MDCI. This one was recommended to me some time ago by L'Aventurier in his "Personality Questions" thread. And again, l love the name.

     

    ln the opening l get citrus, lavender & something suspiciously like cocoa. As the fragrance evolves, it becomes more woody, peppery & herbal, with a steadily strengthening note of patchouli. Reading the notes back, l see that cardamom & ginger are listed, & although l can't pick them out individually here, l can see how they combine to produce a spicy yet fresh accord in the heart. And the idea of an "oriental fougere" suddenly makes sense to me. After thirty minutes or so, the whole thing morphs again into a wonderfully smoky, powdery, rich vanilla along with musk, & the patchouli which remains right through the drydown. l can't comment on the longevity as l needed a shower after doing my chores today, but six hours in it was still humming along nicely.

     

    This is another very interesting fragrance which l feel warrants several wearings to understand the genius of its execution. To combine impressions of freshness with warmth, & lightness with weight in this way, without any feeling of imbalance or incongruence, seems to me extraordinarily clever. l think this one would be wearable for pretty much any season or occasion; it simply smells "good". And although many reviewers describe it as being very masculine, l see no reason at all why a woman could not wear this. l'm leaning towards five stars here, if only it wasn't so expensive...

    6/5/13 at 2:08pm

    cello said:



    Yesterday I finished off my sample of Huitieme Art Naiviris

     

    This is a lovely close wearing, softly sweet, softly woody iris.  It is not overtly rooty, but does offer a hint of makeup-like smell.  It is not a moody one, say like ISM or even Hiris, but in fact it is almost happy in nature.  I thought the fragrance smelled wonderful, although the longevity was mediocre. It was fairly linear also.  Worth an iris fans attention and sniff, but it did not turn my head too far beyond enjoying my sample.

    6/6/13 at 6:10am

    Curly11 said:



    I agree with your assessment of Naiviris. On me it is very much a skin-scent, but quite lovely.

    6/6/13 at 9:59am

    cello said:



    Yes, Curly11, it is a nice one, but ultimately I wonder if I would get bored with it.

     

    Last night I sampled Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours to finish off my sample. So this was a second wearing. Very simply, this is a story of two predominate notes to me - immortelle and soft leather.

     

    I very much enjoyed this fragrance. I smelled the immortelle right off the bat, and to me, it runs all the way through this fragrance. It is especially prevalent in the drydown though - a big, thick maple syrup smell. There is a hint of floral in there, but I could not really indentify it other than to say floral. The leather is smooth rather than harsh, although up close on the skin you get the gasoline hint, but this is lost in the aura of the fragrance. There is a boozy aspect, but it is not really thick or syrupy feeling, which I appreciated because I think that would have put this one over the top in combination with the immortelle. Final drydown was dry and woody, myrrh added to the mix.

     

    I think this is an excellent leather fragrance if you like your leathers on the sweetish side, but not overtly so. The immortelle is a facinating mix, and I enjoyed the note here very much.


    Edited by cello - 6/6/13 at 11:58am

    6/7/13 at 11:51am

    teardrop said:



    Today l tried Good Girl Gone Bad, by By Kilian. Although, like many others, l am not enamoured with the name, it was the mention of "toxic narcissus" in the notes listed on Perfume Shrine that gave me the urge to try this one.

     

    l get just a touch of aldehyde in the opening, along with an intense floral accord; mainly jasmine, to my nose. There is a tropical feel to this accord, & l swear l detect quite a bit of coconut here. The projection is pretty powerful on my skin, & as it warms, the osmanthus lends a fruity edge, which is not too jammy or cloying. The tuberose is there also, but is not at all dominant. l don't get any rose, or even narcissus, but no matter, this is a honeyed, full-bodied & voluptuous floral, with a subtle woodiness from the cedar. After a couple of hours, it all dries down into a creamy, sweet, honeyed, ambery floral, that reminds me a little of Mahora. Ten hours in it's still projecting softly.

     

    This one has been knocked quite a bit for being a little too much of the "good girl", & not much of the bad. And l agree; for a taste of what a fragrance with this name should have smelled like, go & try Lush's vastly cheaper Sikkim Girls. That said, l have enjoyed wearing this, & l do feel incredibly womanly & feminine in it, & so it can't be all bad! l probably wouldn't spend the money required to buy it, though.

    6/9/13 at 7:42am

    Tony T said:



    will be sampling more from my samples in the shoebox

    6/10/13 at 9:55am

    cello said:



    TonyT, be sure to share your thoughts with us!

     

    This weekend I dug up the bag of samples I had ordered from Imaginary Authors.  So far I have only smelled 3 of them, and I really liked Memiors of a Trespasser.  But the two I tried this weekend were both failures on me.

     

    Imaginary Authors The Soft Lawn - I believe meant to evoke a grass tennis court experience, including a note of freshly opened tennis balls per the note list, this one was a must sample for me.  I am an avid tennis player and fan, so was very excited to try this.  It is green, but instead of a pleasant green, it was sour on me.  This could possibly be the ivy note, which does not always work for me, but I honestly mostly smelled sour green, and a smell similar to sweat - like the sheen of persperation on a hot and windy day.  Not bad BO, but just rather unfresh.  I did not really get a clear accord of tennis ball can, but I suppose if I tried really hard, I could imagine that it was there. 

     

    I can't say it does not fit the billing entirely, but this one was just not pleasant for me. 

     

    Imaginary Authors Violet Disguise - This opened up with candied dried fruit of a soft wood.  And then just kind of sat there.  It got less sweet and slightly drier, and it was a pleasant wood accord, but ultimatley I felt it rather unfinished and plain. 

     

    I'm still looking forward to the rest of this line, but only 1 out of 3 have I enjoyed so far. 

    6/10/13 at 12:52pm

    teardrop said:



    Thanks for posting these cello! l still haven't got around to trying any of these apart from Memoirs, & l'm interested in your thoughts on them.

    6/10/13 at 2:24pm

    Tony T said:



    to cello, imaginary authors really only has 1 that intrigues me which is Bull's Blood.I am not in a big rush to sample it. still have bond's, l'artisan's, and other niche I must sample first.

    6/12/13 at 12:27pm

    teardrop said:



    Today l tried Honour Woman by Amouage. l was keen to see what this house could do with a white floral - one of my favourite genres - & intrigued having read that it was inspired by Puccini's Madame Butterfly.

     

    ln the opening l get a fresh, cool, slightly tart note of rhubarb, supported by a white floral accord, & reminiscent of Byredo's beautiful La Tulipe. Sadly, this quickly fades, leaving a kind of musty lily, & no detectable tuberose, gardenia or jasmine, to my nose. Two hours in, there's a creamy, ambery sweetness, & then a subtle smidgeon of vetiver in the base. Seven hours in, it's almost gone.

     

    This is not an altogether unpleasant scent, but l found it disappointing for it's lack of depth, complexity & projection. After that lovely opening, it all falls rather flat & quiet, & does no justice to the beauty of white flowers at all. Certainly not worthy of the price, or, l would say, the name. lf you love the opening of this one, l highly recommend you try La Tulipe; it sustains its beauty for far longer, while being quite a bit cheaper.

    6/13/13 at 12:28pm

    teardrop said:



    Today l tried Datura Noir by Serge Lutens. 

     

    The opening is very similar to that of MPG's Secrete Datura; tonka along with a white floral accord; but there's a fruity overtone to this one. l get hints of bitter almonds & a glimpse of tropical foliage, before the whole thing softens into a smooth, coconutty floral. l don't detect any further development, & l don't get the tuberose that many other reviewers mention. The projection is low, & it all fades after five hours.

     

    This is a pleasant fragrance, but doesn't suggest anything seductively poisonous to me, as one might expect from the name. For me, Secrete Datura captures that vibe far more successfully.

     

    ....and l'm all out of samples for the time being. Please keep this thread going people, & l'll be back when l've got some more. ln the meantime l'm going to revisit some for the Back of the Wardrobe thread, as well as enjoying what l have for a while.

    6/27/13 at 1:08pm

    cello said:



    Teardrop, I can't believe you are out of samples!   Thanks for the writeups, and we will look forward to more!

     

    Today I wore L'Artisan Mure et Musc Extreme. I have had a couple of samples for a long time, and have even tried this once I think, but could not recall much. I'm not usually a musk fan, so it never rose to the top of the sample heap.

     

    This is rather straight forward berry over musk. The berries are not dripping in syrup sweetness, but there is a general sweetness to the berry combo. The musk starts out rather clean, but towards the drydown it does develop a little dirtiness, just a smidge. Overall, this is comfortable if you can handle a dollop of sweetness. I enjoyed the day in it.


    Edited by cello - 6/28/13 at 5:30am

    6/27/13 at 5:04pm

    L'eaulita said:



    ELDO Rossy de Palma. Must buy this asap! I've had this sample for a couple of years now and it never really grabbed me, but for some reason today, it did.

    I knew there was a reason for hoarding all these samples grin.gif

    6/28/13 at 11:00pm

    1adam12 said:



    I sampled (and wore) Atelier's Orange Sanguine today. It's one of the best citruses I've tried as I like how mellow the orange is. I do have a little issue with longevity, but I guess that's why they sell enormous bottles.

     

    I'll probably end up buying this one.