I am curious as to when and why pure parfum concentrations of scents ceased to be offered and why.
I am grateful to anyone who can provide this information. Thanks very much.
I'm not sure when it happened exactly, but at some point in the 60s or 70s the big houses switched from developing the parfum first to focusing on the edp, eliminating the parfum (or considering it an afterthought). Timing aside, the why is simply market reach. Parfum concentrations are too expensive to reach a wide audience. When the market became wide enough (in the sense that more and more people had the disposable income to purchase a fancy perfume), companies switched.
Still, some of the big houses (Chanel, Guerlain) as well as some niche (Piguet, Patou, Caron) still do the parfum version of their classics. But it is almost unheard now that an extrait version is developed for a new parfum.
I think the market today didnt even know that there are differences, so they always buy the cheaper option.
Ive seen a lot of people asking vendors for a fragrance, lets say Coco Mademoiselle, and when theyre check the prices they always get the EDT, which costs about 30% less for the same size.
I think it died when everybody started to spray, spray, spray.
Above all, in the puritan american culture, perfume in general has always been viewed as a sinful pleasure and even more as a gesture of applying it splash.
Perfume permeated in the USA on a wider scale through bath oils, specially thanks to Estee Lauder famous Youth Dew, connecting it to an higienic ritual.
This of course allowed the perfume to be "purified" from its sins but also pushed the need to connect it to a "cleaner", less contaminating gesture as the spray.
Pure perfumes used to still remain splash only for a couple of decades more but the spray mania was not meant to fit so well with the tiny amount of pure perfume it's enough to wear. So pure perfume started to fade out of fashion and what was since the beginning an elitary pleasure, became even more elitary at the point some houses decided it wasn't convenient producing it anymore. So sad.
It would be really good if people could rediscover the gesture, the magic of few drops of pure perfume purred on their fingers or applied with a glass stopper.