100 Fragrances Every Frag-Head Guy Should Try, part 31: Basenotes Darlings - Designer Scents

    100 Fragrances Every Frag-Head Guy Should Try, part 31: Basenotes Darlings - Designer Scents

    post #1 of 2
    Thread Starter 


    The Basenotes Darlings Designer Scents

    92. A*Men Pure Malt by Theiry Mugler



    The malty beer smell of a microbrewery mixed with chocolate, Pure Malt is easily one of the most distinctive and creative scents to come out lately, especially in the woody amber aquatic-obsessed mass market of mens scents. It spawned so many threads on Basenotes that the admins jokingly created a special forum for it, but that only stoked the fire. With reformulation rumors and readers comparing batch codes, Pure Malt was a textbook Basenotes obsession. But it deserved it. Seriously, there hasnt been a mass release as artful and unique as Pure Malt in years. If youve been living under a rock and havent smelled it yet, it really is worth a sniff.



    93. Dior Homme by Christian Dior



    Dior Homme, with its chocolate-dusted iris under a sprinkle of deep green pollen, is easily one of the most distinguished modern mass-market masculine frags currently available. It makes a fantastic first step into unisex or downright feminine scents, but it feels safe because of the Homme on the bottle and its comfortable placement on the mens counter. As such, its often the first fine iris perfume many guys have tried on, and it can seem really weird at first. Iris is an advanced note, rich and soapy and vegetal, with undertones of bleu cheese and powder, and it doesnt help that a lot of expensive makeup is scented with iris, so it has that connotation, too. It can take a while to grow familiar, but once you fall in love with iris as a note, Dior Homme shines even more brightly as one of the best iris perfumes out there.

    In the last couple of months since I started writing this list, Dior Homme Intense has arguable replaced the original as the official Basenotes obsession, complete with large-scale reformulation panic (the sure sign of a Basenotes darling!). But Im sticking with the original Dior Homme as my must-sniff, partly because its way easier to find, and because its practically perfect as is.



    94. Encre Noire by Lalique



    Encre Noire is another perennial Basenotes favorite. Its also one of the few prominent vetiver scents that arent based on the Guerlain formula. Instead of using the traditional summer verbena and nutmeg, Encre Noire goes dark and autumnal by pairing its vetiver with smoke and a heavy dose of rose geranium leaves. Rose geranium is one of the more misunderstood notes in perfumery, largely because its the smell of the leaves and not the flowers, and because it only slightly smells like roses. Instead, rose geranium smells like a weird mix of dark licorice, green leaves, and the round sweetness of roses. As such, its a genius pairing with vetiver, giving enormous depth.



    95. M7 by Yves Saint Laurent



    Under the creative direction of Tom Ford, YSLs M7 was certainly different from the other things going on in the mainstream mens fragrance community. Mostly, it was the first time most cologne collectors from outside the middle east smelled oud, albeit a toned down version.

    M7 is a dense, resinous, rubbery wood scent, obviously influenced by a middle eastern aesthetic, aside from the just the oud. It pairs its oud with smoky, saw-dusty oak over a thick, rich bottom of benzoin and sandalwood, with green, almost plastic-smelling opoponax and a background leathery smell giving a subtle sharpness to the middle. Meanwhile, in a nod to western tastes, its got a nice cherry note on top, keeping all of this foreign-smelling weirdness under an umbrella of sweet familiarity.

    As such, M7 is clearly the father to much of what Tom Ford would do under his own name, and often for way higher prices. If you like it, check out Toms Oud Wood and Tom Ford Extreme, though I'll happily go on record as saying that I personally think M7 is the best of the bunch.




    96. Terre dHermes by Hermes



    Aside from its status as a Basenotes favorite, Terre dHermes (or TDH, as its known to its friends) is also required sniffing as one of the most artful and interesting scents thats relatively easy to track down and sniff. Its based on the interplay between almost obscenely juicy citrus and a dense artful smell thats kind of like rocks or wet cement or a hot road in a parched desert. It almost smells like heat (or some sort of hot natural place) more than anything specific somehow the citrus is there more to give something recognizable, because that just serves to make everything else even more disorienting.

    Its a brain-melter of a perfume, a conceptual art piece disguised as an orange cologne, and another reason people hold its nose Jean Claude Ellena in such high esteem.

    post #2 of 2
    It's a shame they no longer produce Pure Malt. I would loved to have a sniff of this. Not that I'm a whiskey expert but I'm sure I would enjoy this fragrance. I know it's still sold on eBay and so on but I don't think it's worth that price for a blind-buy.
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    11/30/11 at 12:55pm

    rogalal said:





    The Basenotes Darlings Designer Scents

    92. A*Men Pure Malt by Theiry Mugler



    The malty beer smell of a microbrewery mixed with chocolate, Pure Malt is easily one of the most distinctive and creative scents to come out lately, especially in the woody amber aquatic-obsessed mass market of mens scents. It spawned so many threads on Basenotes that the admins jokingly created a special forum for it, but that only stoked the fire. With reformulation rumors and readers comparing batch codes, Pure Malt was a textbook Basenotes obsession. But it deserved it. Seriously, there hasnt been a mass release as artful and unique as Pure Malt in years. If youve been living under a rock and havent smelled it yet, it really is worth a sniff.



    93. Dior Homme by Christian Dior



    Dior Homme, with its chocolate-dusted iris under a sprinkle of deep green pollen, is easily one of the most distinguished modern mass-market masculine frags currently available. It makes a fantastic first step into unisex or downright feminine scents, but it feels safe because of the Homme on the bottle and its comfortable placement on the mens counter. As such, its often the first fine iris perfume many guys have tried on, and it can seem really weird at first. Iris is an advanced note, rich and soapy and vegetal, with undertones of bleu cheese and powder, and it doesnt help that a lot of expensive makeup is scented with iris, so it has that connotation, too. It can take a while to grow familiar, but once you fall in love with iris as a note, Dior Homme shines even more brightly as one of the best iris perfumes out there.

    In the last couple of months since I started writing this list, Dior Homme Intense has arguable replaced the original as the official Basenotes obsession, complete with large-scale reformulation panic (the sure sign of a Basenotes darling!). But Im sticking with the original Dior Homme as my must-sniff, partly because its way easier to find, and because its practically perfect as is.



    94. Encre Noire by Lalique



    Encre Noire is another perennial Basenotes favorite. Its also one of the few prominent vetiver scents that arent based on the Guerlain formula. Instead of using the traditional summer verbena and nutmeg, Encre Noire goes dark and autumnal by pairing its vetiver with smoke and a heavy dose of rose geranium leaves. Rose geranium is one of the more misunderstood notes in perfumery, largely because its the smell of the leaves and not the flowers, and because it only slightly smells like roses. Instead, rose geranium smells like a weird mix of dark licorice, green leaves, and the round sweetness of roses. As such, its a genius pairing with vetiver, giving enormous depth.



    95. M7 by Yves Saint Laurent



    Under the creative direction of Tom Ford, YSLs M7 was certainly different from the other things going on in the mainstream mens fragrance community. Mostly, it was the first time most cologne collectors from outside the middle east smelled oud, albeit a toned down version.

    M7 is a dense, resinous, rubbery wood scent, obviously influenced by a middle eastern aesthetic, aside from the just the oud. It pairs its oud with smoky, saw-dusty oak over a thick, rich bottom of benzoin and sandalwood, with green, almost plastic-smelling opoponax and a background leathery smell giving a subtle sharpness to the middle. Meanwhile, in a nod to western tastes, its got a nice cherry note on top, keeping all of this foreign-smelling weirdness under an umbrella of sweet familiarity.

    As such, M7 is clearly the father to much of what Tom Ford would do under his own name, and often for way higher prices. If you like it, check out Toms Oud Wood and Tom Ford Extreme, though I'll happily go on record as saying that I personally think M7 is the best of the bunch.




    96. Terre dHermes by Hermes



    Aside from its status as a Basenotes favorite, Terre dHermes (or TDH, as its known to its friends) is also required sniffing as one of the most artful and interesting scents thats relatively easy to track down and sniff. Its based on the interplay between almost obscenely juicy citrus and a dense artful smell thats kind of like rocks or wet cement or a hot road in a parched desert. It almost smells like heat (or some sort of hot natural place) more than anything specific somehow the citrus is there more to give something recognizable, because that just serves to make everything else even more disorienting.

    Its a brain-melter of a perfume, a conceptual art piece disguised as an orange cologne, and another reason people hold its nose Jean Claude Ellena in such high esteem.

    12/9/11 at 4:13am

    Geldachron said:



    It's a shame they no longer produce Pure Malt. I would loved to have a sniff of this. Not that I'm a whiskey expert but I'm sure I would enjoy this fragrance. I know it's still sold on eBay and so on but I don't think it's worth that price for a blind-buy.





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