Vintage Philtre D'Amour by Guerlain
Vintage Philtre D'Amour opened with a strong verbena and lemon notes and a faint bergamot note. I'm here to tell you the opening would burn the fuzz right off your cheeks it was that zingy! 20 minutes in I could smell the pettigrain, neroli and a faint green note of myrtle. I didn't get the Jasmine note at all. I think the citrus accord damaged my nostrils!
30 Minutes in, I am still getting the citrus accord, but the base note of patchouli is starting to come on strong and mixing nicely with the citrus accord! The sillage is still very good. However, my nose is starting to burn somewhat because of the repeated smelling of the strong citrus notes.
About an hour and a half, the citrus accord has died down somewhat, but the patchouli dry down is still going strong. The sillage has dropped off though, but the longevity is still there.
After three hours the sillage has dropped to next to nothing and the longevity is still there, but it is a skin scent by now.
I love Eau De Guerlain, but it doesn't pack the punch as vintage Philtre D' Amour and I would choose it as a spring/summer citrus/lemon scent over EDG. It also would make a nice unisex fragrance. I would highly recommend this Guerlain to anyone!
Vintage Jicky PDT
Jicky was created in 1889. It is a classical fragrance and despite it's age, it's still a relevant fragrance for today. It was not the first perfume to use synthetic materials along with natural ones. Fougre Royale by Houbigant (1882) was the first.
Vintage Jicky PDT opens with strong notes of Lavender, lemon and maybe Bergamot? After a few minutes, I smell some kind of wood which must be the rosewood.
After 45 minutes, I still smell the Lavender, citruses and rosewood accord, but the smell of roses, jasmine,orris root start to show up. The sillage has hit a high point now.The patchouli is begining to join the show.
An hour into the sampling,I can smell faint woody notes and a slight vanilla note. The sillage is gone, as far as I can tell and the longevity is slowly coming to an end. Making the longevity on my skin to last for about 2 hours. It may last longer after all the sniffing that I've been doing.
I am still scratching my head because I never smelt a civet note, leather note or Tonka note making me wrong or the lists of notes wrong. The only thing I can think of next is after all the sample smelling, I've gotten temporary anosmia? I can say that this is a beautiful scent for a man or a women, anytime of the year and for just about any occasion. Highly Recommended even with civet!
Jicky Parfum- Floral Chypre
Jicky, the legendary perfume debuted in 1889 and has been in manufacture longer than any other fragrance; it used new synthetic perfume ingredients, coumarin and vanillin, along with a decidedly un-demure dose of civet; and for decades, it was favored by men before being adopted by (and marketed to) women.
There are two stories to how Jicky got it's name, but I prefer the story that Aimee Guerlainnamed Jicky after his favorite nephew, Jacques Guerlain, the man who would later give usMitsouko, L'Heure Bleue and Shalimar.
Jicky Parfum opened with a strong note of lavander. I did not get a citrus note at all. The Vanilla-tonka is a lot heavier than in the PDT form. The lavander, vanilla and tonka accord is so heavy it feels as though it falls in on it's own weight, revealing nice notes of herbal and forest accords.
In the parfum form, I am defintely getting lots of civet wafting around, unlike the PDT form. The whole opening is a lot muskier and creamier than the sharpness of the PDT.
One hour in, I smell bergamot, rose and amber entering the compostion. The silllage is at it's highest now.
Another Half hour as the Jicky Parfum has begun to dry down and I smell amber, tonka, vanilla, opoponax and woody notes. The sillage is low, but the longevity is still fairly strong. In an effort to wrap this up, the Jicky Parfum has been going for 2.5 hours now and I would estimate it's longevity to be 3 to 3.5 hours.
This is a magnificent parfum, but as do all fragrances reacts differently on each person. However. I feel safe in recommending this for any man or women, except those that can't deal with the civet.
I did not smell all the notes that are listed by Basenotes or Guerlain. There is a discrepency between the notes between the two. I think only Guerlain has the original formula and notes and for marketing and IFRA reasons changes don't list the true notes. As far as marketing goes, there is no mention of civet in the Guerlain's new pyramid probably because no one want's to know they are going to smell a foul odor and wont buy it?
Sous Le Vent EDT- Guerlain classifies this perfume as a Floral Chypre
This is a review of the recently re-issued Sous le Vent, originally created by parfumeur Jacques Guerlain and introduced in 1933, the very same year that Vol de Nuit was released. Sous le Vent(2006) is part of the collection "Il était une fois" (Once upon a time) which is enriched each year by the addition of a new historical jus from amongst the 700 or so perfumes belonging to the Guerlain catalogue. The first perfume to be released in that collection was Vega in 1997
Sous Le Vent opens with a citrus accord. I can smell Basil, Tarragon and a sweetness that becomes sweeter with time from lavander and bergamot. The sillage is at it's highest now.
15 Minutes in I defintely smell carnation and a mossy green note. As the carnation and green notes begin to settle for a while, the jasmine begins to enter.
30 Minutes in , I can smell the woody notes mixed with foresty notes and I can still smell the carnation.
An hour in, I can still smell the carnation and green notes. The sillage is down to a skin scent, but the longevity is still strong.
2 hours in, the sillage , as far as I can tell, is gone. However, the longevity is still there and I can still smell jasmine and carnation.
It's been 4 hours now and the longevity is about to fold.
Sous Le Vent Does share a lot of similarities with Philtre d'Amour and has been described as "brother and sister" fragrances. I liked PDA and I love Sous Le Vent! I would highly recommend it as a unisex fragrance.
Anais Anais by Cacharel- Floral
Anais Anais was the first perfume from Cacharel and was introduced back in 1978. At that time the fragrances were stylized for the new, individual, feminist woman like Charlie by Revlon. The Cacharel company had a fragrance that would appeal to the opposite of that kind of women and used a new marketing strategy, by marketing to the teenage population and it worked making Anais Anais a hit!
Anais Anais opens with strong notes of orange blossom, honeysuckle, hyacinth, galbanum and bergamot. The sillage is average though and stays a little closer to the body than I would have thought. However, don't try smelling this one close up during it's opening because it has my nose watering!
Thirty minutes in, I get a strong smell of lilly of the valley, ylang ylang, lily, tuberose and a faint smell of carnations. There is rose in there somewhere but, I can't find it among the other heavier notes.
One hour in, I smell a faint cedarwood and vetiver and more strongly amber, incense, sandalwood. The sillage is still average, but the longevity is gowing strong. Two hours in , the longevity is still going and I would say that Anais Anais has very good longevity and strangely average sillage. I would recommend this as a nostalgic fragrance for women and a possible unisex if applied lightly for a man.
Apres L'Ondee by Guerlain- Chypre
Apres L'Ondee was introduce in 1906 and is highly regarded by Luca Turin because of it simplicity, keen nostalgia and it's unadorned beauty. He also calls it one of the top twenty most beautiful fragrances.
Apres L'Ondee opens softly with light bergamot and aniseed. To my nose up close, it almost had a fishy smell to it. However, not many people are going to apply their perfume the way I am sampling Apres L'Ondee. After a few minutes, the bergamot and aniseed become stronger and sweeter. The Whole opening reminds me somewhat of L'Heure Bleue.
Fifteen minutes in, the only thing I smell is a bit of wet violet. I never got any jasmine, rose or carnation. I don't know if it is the strong odor that made my nose run in the Anais Anais or what? Thirty minutes later,all I smell are faint notes of iris,vanilla,helitrope and aniseed. The sillage is fading fast as well as the longevity.
I don't know what it is about Apres L'Ondee and me, skin chenistry, nasal problems, but I never got the pleasure from Apres L'Ondee that everyone else seems to have gotten. It was unpleasant. Whatever it is, I could not recommend this fragrance to anyone as I smell it.
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3/27/13 at 3:29pm