In my search for the vaunted Iris Gris, I am looking for the best existing Iris fragrance. I've sampled several iris based scents and am waiting on Silver Iris Mist, SMN Iris, and MPG Iris Bleu Gris.
28 La Pausa: La Pausa is a light, modern iris accord much like the Dior Homme, but lighter and less powdery and cloying. It is a nice choice for summer of spring given its overall lightness. The accords are brisk and crisp. The heart and base becomes muddled and discordant as I've experienced with other Chanels.
DSH Iridum: like most DSH fragrances, Iridum contains copious amounts of natural orris concrete and this is especially evident on first application. The iris is strong and brooding, but the only problem is that it is too bare and too exposed. I've smelled pure orris concrete and it is raw, bold, rooty, and potentially off-putting while being hauntingly beautiful at the same time. The iris note here is underdeveloped and not supported by the overall composition of the fragrance that dies down to a light woods and incense. Great iris, but too raw and undeveloped; a shame, it could have been excellent.
DSH Ligne Trapeze: probably the closest to the my idealized vision of the original Iris Gris, but likely still insufficient. The opening is aldehydic with a little fruit and citrus giving way to a decent orris accord (wish it had more). There is a peach note that melds with the orris well forming a velvety, soft, slightly powdery accord that extends into the base. If only there were more orris concrete, this might be the one. Runs a bit feminine, though I would suspect the original Iris Gris would have, too. Ligne includes naturals such as sandalwood, vetiver, castoreum, ambrette seed, Spanish jasmine, Turkish rose, lily of the valley, and leather. The base is musky and bit soapy.
Iris Gris (Legendary Perfumes): I am wearing this today. It is simple, restrained, and not very exciting. There is a good quantity of orris concrete, but it is extended through the use of sharp synthetic fruity accords. There is no peach note like the original save a green apple note in the dry down. I've never tried the original, but I would wager Legendary Perfume's version is a pale comparison. There is no musk, soap, or velvety softness associated with the original.