How does a process of creation of a perfume usually goes (and how long it takes)?

    How does a process of creation of a perfume usually goes (and how long it takes)?

    post #1 of 8
    Thread Starter 

     Hi

    I'd be very thankful if someone who knows about perfume industry would enlighten me.

     

    Let's take some example, say, Chanel Antaeus or Rochas Macassar in the 80's  or any similar scent.

     

    Am i right as i picture it something like this:

     

    1. The company (marketing dept.) decides to create a new fragrance
    2. They have some artistic director or similar who is named to lead the project
    3. He "hires" a perfumer / group of perfumers to work in the project and tells roughly what he expects(the target marketing group, the style of the fragrance, some general guidelines).  Or the company has a "in-house nose"

       4. The project starts

       5. The project ends with a fragrance which will be lauched and the fragranece goes to the production with advertising campaign etc.

     

    • How long usually a fragrance project takes from the decision to create a frag to launching it?  Years, i take it?
    • Is it only sales that effect on the decision to discontinue a fragrance? What else possibly?
    • How long life cycle usually the discontinued fragrances typically had?  Some years?  A decade?

    (Some discontinued ones:  Macassar, Rochas Lui, Gucci Envy Men, Gucci Nobile, Ungaro I )

     

     

    One more.  I took the example of the 80's scents.  Has the project time spans changed comparing  the 80's ones to  nowadays fragrance creating projects?  Maybe they do not take as long as decades ago?  In other words, do companies create fragrances nowadays in a smaller time than decades ago?

    post #2 of 8
    post #3 of 8
    Thread Starter 

    Thanks Irina for the link!
     

    post #4 of 8
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by dofa91 View Post

     
    [*] How long usually a fragrance project takes from the decision to create a frag to launching it?  Years, i take it?
    Someone could conjecture in Montales' case - weeks!
    post #5 of 8
    You're welcome! 'The perfect scent' is the book that should answer most, if not all, your questions.
    post #6 of 8
    Candler Burr's book is a great source. He guides you through the process of developing a niche (if you consider Hermes niche) and a celebrity scent. Based on his writing and what I've learned from other sources, I wrote a post about, which you may find helpful.

    http://scentbound.com/2013/01/20/the-making-of-a-celebrity-fragrance/

    Your thinking is mostly correct. The only part that is slightly different is that instead of going to one perfumer, companies usually tender their briefs and pick the best submission.

    I think nowadays it takes less than a year to slap a fragrance together, judging by the quality of some stuff on the market. Companies usually aim to release a scent each fashion season and of course the holiday season.

    As for discontinuing a fragrance, I'd guess sales and fit of the product in the company's image are key considerations. Drastic changes in ingredient regulations may also kill a fragrance even though companies would rather reforms late.
    post #7 of 8
    Thread Starter 

    Hey thank you so much, i appreciate it. Will read the post in the link provided.  Thanks also to others who replied.

    post #8 of 8

    Jean Kerlèo needed at least 5 years to develop  perfectly "1000" de Jean Patou.

    According to the legendary story, Jean Charles Brosseau waited  from-1978-to-1982 (4 years) to ship his perfume Ombre Rose to production. 

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    6/29/13 at 3:11am

    dofa91 said:



     Hi

    I'd be very thankful if someone who knows about perfume industry would enlighten me.

     

    Let's take some example, say, Chanel Antaeus or Rochas Macassar in the 80's  or any similar scent.

     

    Am i right as i picture it something like this:

     

    1. The company (marketing dept.) decides to create a new fragrance
    2. They have some artistic director or similar who is named to lead the project
    3. He "hires" a perfumer / group of perfumers to work in the project and tells roughly what he expects(the target marketing group, the style of the fragrance, some general guidelines).  Or the company has a "in-house nose"

       4. The project starts

       5. The project ends with a fragrance which will be lauched and the fragranece goes to the production with advertising campaign etc.

     

    • How long usually a fragrance project takes from the decision to create a frag to launching it?  Years, i take it?
    • Is it only sales that effect on the decision to discontinue a fragrance? What else possibly?
    • How long life cycle usually the discontinued fragrances typically had?  Some years?  A decade?

    (Some discontinued ones:  Macassar, Rochas Lui, Gucci Envy Men, Gucci Nobile, Ungaro I )

     

     

    One more.  I took the example of the 80's scents.  Has the project time spans changed comparing  the 80's ones to  nowadays fragrance creating projects?  Maybe they do not take as long as decades ago?  In other words, do companies create fragrances nowadays in a smaller time than decades ago?

    6/29/13 at 5:32am

    Irina said:



    6/29/13 at 6:05am

    dofa91 said:



    Thanks Irina for the link!
     

    6/29/13 at 6:28am

    hednic said:



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by dofa91 View Post

     
    [*] How long usually a fragrance project takes from the decision to create a frag to launching it?  Years, i take it?
    Someone could conjecture in Montales' case - weeks!

    6/29/13 at 12:58pm

    Irina said:



    You're welcome! 'The perfect scent' is the book that should answer most, if not all, your questions.

    7/13/13 at 3:53pm

    ScentBound said:



    Candler Burr's book is a great source. He guides you through the process of developing a niche (if you consider Hermes niche) and a celebrity scent. Based on his writing and what I've learned from other sources, I wrote a post about, which you may find helpful.

    http://scentbound.com/2013/01/20/the-making-of-a-celebrity-fragrance/

    Your thinking is mostly correct. The only part that is slightly different is that instead of going to one perfumer, companies usually tender their briefs and pick the best submission.

    I think nowadays it takes less than a year to slap a fragrance together, judging by the quality of some stuff on the market. Companies usually aim to release a scent each fashion season and of course the holiday season.

    As for discontinuing a fragrance, I'd guess sales and fit of the product in the company's image are key considerations. Drastic changes in ingredient regulations may also kill a fragrance even though companies would rather reforms late.

    7/15/13 at 12:31pm

    dofa91 said:



    Hey thank you so much, i appreciate it. Will read the post in the link provided.  Thanks also to others who replied.

    7/15/13 at 12:37pm

    Andre Moreau said:



    Jean Kerlèo needed at least 5 years to develop  perfectly "1000" de Jean Patou.

    According to the legendary story, Jean Charles Brosseau waited  from-1978-to-1982 (4 years) to ship his perfume Ombre Rose to production. 





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