A Perfumer's Wish List

    A Perfumer's Wish List

    post #1 of 7
    Thread Starter 

    What are the materials that you don't currently have (or perhaps only have a sample of) that you'd love to be able have in your palette to blend with, but just can't find (at all or in a quantity or at a price you can deal with)?

     

    To start us off here are two items on my wish list, one impossible and one I aim to solve:

     

    The impossible one is violet flower absolute (hasn't been made commercially since about 1902 I gather) but my goodness I'd love to be able make a fragrance with some.

     

    The other is geosmin - I have a little but no reliable, affordable source for more so I'm reluctant to make a product with it - I'm working on it though.

     

    So what are yours?

    post #2 of 7

    A lovely idea. I'll second the violet absolute and add lily of the valley (muguet) and tobacco flower. A good source for high quality aged patchouli would be nice. Robertet's texas and atlas cedar fractions ("Coeur") and their "Santalol nat". For ACs current wishlist includes cubenol and  methyl ionone alpha extra (Which I think is different from the usual alpha and gammas -- but I would be happy to be corrected. )
     

    post #3 of 7

    While at this point, I'm really just testing the waters, I was introduced to a couple of John Steele oils last week (by the man himself) that blew my mind. The first is Big Buddha Hemp ($50 for 1.5ml) -- even though I'm not the hugest fan of weed smells, this was just lovely (although it made me a bit peckish). The second was his Blue Lotus ($90 for 1.5ml) which was simply sublime and other-worldly.

     

    Aside from that, I'm also smitten with the slightly more available Oakwood CO2, but I can't envisage that as part of a blend at this point -- I'd wear it neat, personally.

    post #4 of 7

    @Chris. I was given some apparently real violet made into an edt. I only have a small sample of it, but you are welcome to a drop for smelling so you could copy the profile if you liked.

    @Gecko. I can oblige with a small quantity of the aged Patchouli. I got lucky on a buy. Plus the above.

     

    My wish list might be a really nice dry cocoa abs, and a soft coffee flower abs. 

    post #5 of 7

    Well after 8 years of searching it looks like one of my wish list items may finally be granted, Spanish Cedarwood EO.

     

    I've got some samples coming from South America.  If it works out, I will be selling it to other perfumers too, since it is such a rare beastie.

     

    Also on my list:

     

    Hinokitiol

     

    Hinoki root EO

     

    Oncidal

     

     

    4-oxo-beta-ionone

     

    B-Oxoionyl isobutyrate -  which only shows up in Arcadi's book

     

    In fact, several of those items on my wishlist reside freely on the pages of Arcadi's book, but seem not to exist anywhere else in cyberspace...

    Like:

     

    Krishnanol  ( do not confuse with Krishnanone)

    cedar cyclododecatriene/Boisanol

    Myrrhone - I've got my guy at Vigon chasing down this Firmenich Product

    Dihydro Alpha-vetivone

    Isopirene

    Isophoryl Acetate

    2-methyl-3-(2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl Acetate AKA  MCP Acetate

    CAS Number : 54043-73-1
    post #6 of 7
    Thread Starter 
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by mumsy View Post

    @Chris. I was given some apparently real violet made into an edt. I only have a small sample of it, but you are welcome to a drop for smelling so you could copy the profile if you liked.

    @Gecko. I can oblige with a small quantity of the aged Patchouli. I got lucky on a buy. Plus the above.

     

    My wish list might be a really nice dry cocoa abs, and a soft coffee flower abs. 

     

    Real, natural violet? And you are confident of the provenance?  Wow: I'd be fascinated to smell that indeed please.

     

    Your mention of coffee flower absolute reminded me of another of mine actually: Grapefruit Flower EO (and for that matter absolute, except that I don't think anyone is making an absolute currently).

    post #7 of 7

    Coffee Flower Absolute from Liberty Naturals:

     

    COFFEE FLOWER MADAGASCAR
    COFFEA ROBUSTA


    Ingredient Type - ABSOLUTE
    Extraction Method - SOLVENT EXTRACTED

    Liberty Natural Products, Inc.


    Product No. Ounces Milliliter Cost  
    2015.A .02 .59 7.25  
    2015.B .08 2.31 30.18  
    2015.C .12 3.69 45.23  
    2015.D .25 7.39 87.18  
    2015.E .5 14.79 153.80  
    2015.F 1 29.57 277.06  

                                               Cost in $USD

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    7/5/13 at 9:53am

    Chris Bartlett said:



    What are the materials that you don't currently have (or perhaps only have a sample of) that you'd love to be able have in your palette to blend with, but just can't find (at all or in a quantity or at a price you can deal with)?

     

    To start us off here are two items on my wish list, one impossible and one I aim to solve:

     

    The impossible one is violet flower absolute (hasn't been made commercially since about 1902 I gather) but my goodness I'd love to be able make a fragrance with some.

     

    The other is geosmin - I have a little but no reliable, affordable source for more so I'm reluctant to make a product with it - I'm working on it though.

     

    So what are yours?

    7/5/13 at 12:10pm

    gecko214 said:



    A lovely idea. I'll second the violet absolute and add lily of the valley (muguet) and tobacco flower. A good source for high quality aged patchouli would be nice. Robertet's texas and atlas cedar fractions ("Coeur") and their "Santalol nat". For ACs current wishlist includes cubenol and  methyl ionone alpha extra (Which I think is different from the usual alpha and gammas -- but I would be happy to be corrected. )
     

    7/5/13 at 9:11pm

    deadidol said:



    While at this point, I'm really just testing the waters, I was introduced to a couple of John Steele oils last week (by the man himself) that blew my mind. The first is Big Buddha Hemp ($50 for 1.5ml) -- even though I'm not the hugest fan of weed smells, this was just lovely (although it made me a bit peckish). The second was his Blue Lotus ($90 for 1.5ml) which was simply sublime and other-worldly.

     

    Aside from that, I'm also smitten with the slightly more available Oakwood CO2, but I can't envisage that as part of a blend at this point -- I'd wear it neat, personally.

    7/9/13 at 6:47am

    mumsy said:



    @Chris. I was given some apparently real violet made into an edt. I only have a small sample of it, but you are welcome to a drop for smelling so you could copy the profile if you liked.

    @Gecko. I can oblige with a small quantity of the aged Patchouli. I got lucky on a buy. Plus the above.

     

    My wish list might be a really nice dry cocoa abs, and a soft coffee flower abs. 

    7/9/13 at 2:21pm

    pkiler said:



    Well after 8 years of searching it looks like one of my wish list items may finally be granted, Spanish Cedarwood EO.

     

    I've got some samples coming from South America.  If it works out, I will be selling it to other perfumers too, since it is such a rare beastie.

     

    Also on my list:

     

    Hinokitiol

     

    Hinoki root EO

     

    Oncidal

     

     

    4-oxo-beta-ionone

     

    B-Oxoionyl isobutyrate -  which only shows up in Arcadi's book

     

    In fact, several of those items on my wishlist reside freely on the pages of Arcadi's book, but seem not to exist anywhere else in cyberspace...

    Like:

     

    Krishnanol  ( do not confuse with Krishnanone)

    cedar cyclododecatriene/Boisanol

    Myrrhone - I've got my guy at Vigon chasing down this Firmenich Product

    Dihydro Alpha-vetivone

    Isopirene

    Isophoryl Acetate

    2-methyl-3-(2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl Acetate AKA  MCP Acetate

    CAS Number : 54043-73-1

    7/10/13 at 7:07am

    Chris Bartlett said:



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by mumsy View Post

    @Chris. I was given some apparently real violet made into an edt. I only have a small sample of it, but you are welcome to a drop for smelling so you could copy the profile if you liked.

    @Gecko. I can oblige with a small quantity of the aged Patchouli. I got lucky on a buy. Plus the above.

     

    My wish list might be a really nice dry cocoa abs, and a soft coffee flower abs. 

     

    Real, natural violet? And you are confident of the provenance?  Wow: I'd be fascinated to smell that indeed please.

     

    Your mention of coffee flower absolute reminded me of another of mine actually: Grapefruit Flower EO (and for that matter absolute, except that I don't think anyone is making an absolute currently).

    7/10/13 at 7:19am

    pkiler said:



    Coffee Flower Absolute from Liberty Naturals:

     

    COFFEE FLOWER MADAGASCAR
    COFFEA ROBUSTA


    Ingredient Type - ABSOLUTE
    Extraction Method - SOLVENT EXTRACTED

    Liberty Natural Products, Inc.


    Product No. Ounces Milliliter Cost  
    2015.A .02 .59 7.25  
    2015.B .08 2.31 30.18  
    2015.C .12 3.69 45.23  
    2015.D .25 7.39 87.18  
    2015.E .5 14.79 153.80  
    2015.F 1 29.57 277.06  

                                               Cost in $USD