While all are welcome, suede is a favorite for me.
Dirty English - I get the leather note right away, well after about 1/2 hour or less and it stays for a while. This unfortunately has fairly short longevity overall though - However, if you go heavy with it you can get a full evening for sure and there is no point where it is "too much" at least IMO
Oh and I second the Black Suede - it's a nice soft leather scent
+1 for Tom of Finland
Cuir Velours by Naomi Goodsir is another good option. It has a smooth suede note with incense and immortelle.