Many people are using the new oakmoss. Bertrand Duchaufourâ€™s Chypre Palatin was one of the first and best examples. I think he was the first to use it. From what I hear the new â€œoakmoss low atranol" smells good but lacks the complexity of full oakmoss. Oakmoss does a lot more than act as a fixative. It deepens and complicates other notes from the top notes through the drydown,
And oakmoss is only one of hundreds of important ingredients that are restricted to certain amounts. That's why everything made today is so simple, full of cheap musks, various woody-amber "pre-composed bases", Iso E Super, and millions of sugary molecules that camouflage and take the place of real complexity
I'm not a perfumer but it's pretty basic. In Mitsouko there are many missing pieces, including the right amount of bergamot (most citruses are regulated to small amounts) and the things that make the bergamot smell its best, most of the florals and spices, several others. Unless the regulations are totally lifted there will never be another Mitsouko as it was prior to 2005. Itâ€™s still good, though.
There are also more regulations coming.
Edited by pluran - 7/10/13 at 4:35pm