A list of the most essential EOs in fine fragrances?

    A list of the most essential EOs in fine fragrances?

    post #1 of 12
    Thread Starter 
    The wonderful "list of essential aroma chemicals" thread has got me thinking…

    From reading this forum over the past year, I've realized a couple of important things:

    1) Most modern frags are (correct me if I'm wrong) at least a majority ACs, with a much smaller amount of EOs. And that ratio has been tending towards more, and more ACs.

    Right?

    2) That there are simply a lot of "natural"-seeming notes that are created with chemicals. And there's little-to-no reason to use the actual Essential Oils for that purpose.

    So, beyond the specialty "tent pole" EOs, like Hatian Vetiver, etc, what are the main EOs that are still used in modern perfumes/colognes?

    Bergamot? Geranium? Galbanum? Patchouli?

    +++

    Apologies in advance if this thread is a dumb idea smile.gif
    post #2 of 12

    I'd imagine that there are too many variables involved. For much mainstream, mass-produced perfumery, avoiding naturals at all cost would be, it seems, the smart business move. Meanwhile, there are a number of niche lines that are working not just with naturals, but with weird, rare, and expensive naturals. So it seems that it would depend on the line itself.

    post #3 of 12

    I don't think it's a dumb idea. Let's start at the basic basics as if you were starting out and we can all build on it.

     

    (Bear in mind this is being compiled as you read it and is not complete. It has veered away from the beginners list but you will need to start with just some from each category)

     

    Citrus's:-

    Bergamot (bergaptene free)

    Citral

    Citronella

    Clementine

    Grapefruit (pink, white)

    Lemon

    Lemongrass

    Lime oil (distilled)

    Lime (Kaffir)

    Litsea Cubeba (May Chang)

    Mandarin

    Mandarin oil (green)

    Melissa

    Neroli (Orange Blossom)

    Orange (sweet, bitter and blood)

    Petitgrain

    Tangerine

     

    Flowers:-

    Broom

    Cananga (same family as ylang ylang)

    Carnation 

    Champaka

    Damiana

    Geranium

    Helichrysum (Italicum)

    Iris/Orris

    Jasmine (auri/grandi/sambac)

    Lily

    Lotus

    Lavender (Spike, High alt, French, Maillette ....loads of variants)

    Lavandin

    Magnolia leaf (rich in linalool)

    Mimosa

    Narcissus

    Osmanthus

    Palmarosa (also called Indian geranium)

    Rose (Bulgarian, Damascina, otto, Co2, , almost needs a section of it's own)

    Tagetes

    Tansy

    Tuberose

    Ylang Ylang

    Ylang Ylang Extra

    Violet leaf

     

    Greens:-

    Clary sage

    Galbanum (Small amount)

    Guiacwood (Small amount)

    Hemp

    Oakmoss (restricted)

    Patchouli

    Vetiver

     

    Woods:-

    Agarwood (oudh)

    Birch (white, sweet)

    Cedarwood (Atlas, Virginia, Chinese)

    Red cedar

     

    Sandalwood (eco friendly replaceable)

     

    Aromatic woods, leaves and stems:-

    Cedar Leaf

    Conifer Needle oils (rich in limonene)

    Cypress

    Fir Balsam

    Gurjun Balsam

    Ho Wood/ Ho Leaf

    Juniper

    Niaouli

    Neem

    Massoia

    Palo Santo

    Pine needle

    Spruce (black, hemlock)

    Ravensara

    Rosalina

    Rosewood (controlled species)

    Thuja

     

    Herbals:-

    Bay Leaf

    Chamomile (and Chamomile blue)

    Davana

    Hyssop

    Laurel

    Lovage

    Marjoram

    Myrtle (honey, lemon)

    Oregano

    Parsley

    Rosemary

    Sage (white, dalmation)

    Tarragon

    Tea tree

    Tobacco

    Thyme

    Verbena

    Wormwood

    Yarrow

     

    Spicy:-

    Anise and/or Flower Anise

    Ajwain (thymol)

    Asafoetida

    Basil

    Capsicum

    Cardamom

    Caraway

    Cassia

    Calamus

    Circuma

    Cinnamon (Leaf. bark, seed)

    Clove/clove bud/clove stem/clove leaf

    Coriander

    Cubeb

    Cumin

    Curry leaf

    Dill

    Fennel (bitter, sweet)

    Fenugreek

    Galangal

    Garlic

    Ginger

    Gingergrass

    Nutmeg and/or Mace

    Onion

    Pepper (white, pink, green, black)

    PImento

    Turmeric

    Sassafras

    Savory

     

    Lifting:-

    Camphor

    Cornmint

    Eucalyptus (many scent profiles see here)

    Peppermint

    Spearmint

    Wintergreen (beware toxicity)

     

    Gourmand:-

    Benzoin

    Coffee

    Tolu Balsam

    Tonka bean

    Vanilla

     

    Resinous:-

    Amber

    Copiaba balsam

    Elemi

    Frankincense

    Labdanum

    Myrrh

    Opopanax (sweet myrrh)

    Peru Balsam

     

    Smoky:- (Small amount)

    Birch tar

    Cade

     

    Ozonic/marine:-

    Ambergris (is gathered, but getting very hard to find decent stuff)

    Seaweed

     

    Animalic:- (there are good subs for these)

    Castoreum (mind your sources regarding cruelty)

    Civet (mind your sources regarding cruelty)

    Hyraceum (is gathered from a rock)

    Musk (not really worth hunting for anymore regarding cruelty and mostly illegal)

     

    Musky effects:-

    Ambrette Seed

    Angelica

    Carrot seed (Small amount)

    Celery seed

    Cepes

    Hay abs

    Mugwort

    Spikenard

     

     

    I can alter the list with more suggestions. Keep them rolling in.


    Edited by mumsy - 7/13/13 at 5:53am
    post #4 of 12

    Here's My thoughts:

     

    Citrus'  -   Add: 

    Kaffir Lime

    Blood Orange

     

    I need more specs for Petitgrain

     

    Flowers   -Add: 

    Orangeblossom

    Mimosa

    Helichrysum Italicum

    Ho Leaf / Magnolia leaf / Rosewood EO, (rich in linalool)

     

     - I need more specs for Lavender and Rose

     

    Woods  -Add:

    Fir Balsam

    Gurjun Balsam

    Conifer Needle oils rich in limonene

    Elemi

     

     - I need more specs for Cedar, too many types and wide differences

     

     

    Herbals -    Add:

    More Artemisia Family Members, Esp. Davana

    Tobacco Absolute

    Celery Seed

     

    Spices -   

    subst Mace for Nutmeg.  Nutmeg seems to have always failed me as "Nutmeg", while mace nails the odor profile of what I want Nutmeg to smell like.

     

     

    Lifting  -  

    1. I'm not really set with peppermint, I think that other mints might have better usage.  So I would add one or two more mints

    2. "Eucalyptus" is not specific enough, need more specs, because it can go in several directions.

     

     

    Resinous  -  Add:

    Labdanum

    Amber EO / Amber Fossilized Destructive distillation Eo, which *could* also satisf some smoky requirements

    post #5 of 12

    Done. All suggestions welcome.

    post #6 of 12

    Citrus

    Lime oil distilled 

    Mandarin oil green

     

    Woods

    Cedarwood Virginian

    Cedarwood Chinese

    Cedarwood Atlas

    Pine Needle 

     

    Floral

    Ylang Exra (or Grade 1)

    Lavender

    Lavandin

    post #7 of 12
    Thread Starter 
    Wow. This (plus the other) is going to be a great list!

    PS, mumsy, love the colours!

    Quick question, to clarify for us newbies:

    For those of us who are going at this by "trying to make a frag kinda like 'X' or 'Y'"… is it safe to assume that most modern frags have ZERO EOs in them?
    Quote:
    For much mainstream, mass-produced perfumery, avoiding naturals at all cost would be, it seems, the smart business move

    smile.gif
    post #8 of 12

    Yep. Just avoid the lot! Lol

    post #9 of 12
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by JungleNYC View Post

    Wow. This (plus the other) is going to be a great list!

    PS, mumsy, love the colours!

    Quick question, to clarify for us newbies:

    For those of us who are going at this by "trying to make a frag kinda like 'X' or 'Y'"… is it safe to assume that most modern frags have ZERO EOs in them?
    smile.gif

    No, that is just ridiculous.   All fragrances contain some naturals; some more than others. 

    post #10 of 12
    Thread Starter 
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post

    No, that is just ridiculous.   All fragrances contain some naturals; some more than others. 

    Ha! Different opinions! …now we're getting somewhere smile.gif

    What are those naturals?

    Which ones would you tend to use an EO instead of an AC equivalent?

    Are there any staples? Like Bergamot? Lavandar? Geranium? Patchouli?
    post #11 of 12

    There are some Essential Oils that have been duplicated quite successfully.   Bergamot, Geranium and Ylang are three that come to mind.   I have smelled these and have to say they are pretty good .   Also they will be cheaper than the naturals, which is always an advantage.   However there are some oils that, for whatever reason, have not been duplicated; Patchouli, Vetivert, Cedarwood, etc.

     

    And, whilst the duplicates are good, they are not identical; each have their place in Perfumery.   I cannot think of a single fragrance that is made up of all synthetics; can you?

    post #12 of 12

    That Molecule thing and a few others, but not many.

    class="

    7/11/13 at 6:38pm

    JungleNYC said:



    The wonderful "list of essential aroma chemicals" thread has got me thinking…

    From reading this forum over the past year, I've realized a couple of important things:

    1) Most modern frags are (correct me if I'm wrong) at least a majority ACs, with a much smaller amount of EOs. And that ratio has been tending towards more, and more ACs.

    Right?

    2) That there are simply a lot of "natural"-seeming notes that are created with chemicals. And there's little-to-no reason to use the actual Essential Oils for that purpose.

    So, beyond the specialty "tent pole" EOs, like Hatian Vetiver, etc, what are the main EOs that are still used in modern perfumes/colognes?

    Bergamot? Geranium? Galbanum? Patchouli?

    +++

    Apologies in advance if this thread is a dumb idea smile.gif

    7/12/13 at 12:09am

    deadidol said:



    I'd imagine that there are too many variables involved. For much mainstream, mass-produced perfumery, avoiding naturals at all cost would be, it seems, the smart business move. Meanwhile, there are a number of niche lines that are working not just with naturals, but with weird, rare, and expensive naturals. So it seems that it would depend on the line itself.

    7/12/13 at 1:07am

    mumsy said:



    I don't think it's a dumb idea. Let's start at the basic basics as if you were starting out and we can all build on it.

     

    (Bear in mind this is being compiled as you read it and is not complete. It has veered away from the beginners list but you will need to start with just some from each category)

     

    Citrus's:-

    Bergamot (bergaptene free)

    Citral

    Citronella

    Clementine

    Grapefruit (pink, white)

    Lemon

    Lemongrass

    Lime oil (distilled)

    Lime (Kaffir)

    Litsea Cubeba (May Chang)

    Mandarin

    Mandarin oil (green)

    Melissa

    Neroli (Orange Blossom)

    Orange (sweet, bitter and blood)

    Petitgrain

    Tangerine

     

    Flowers:-

    Broom

    Cananga (same family as ylang ylang)

    Carnation 

    Champaka

    Damiana

    Geranium

    Helichrysum (Italicum)

    Iris/Orris

    Jasmine (auri/grandi/sambac)

    Lily

    Lotus

    Lavender (Spike, High alt, French, Maillette ....loads of variants)

    Lavandin

    Magnolia leaf (rich in linalool)

    Mimosa

    Narcissus

    Osmanthus

    Palmarosa (also called Indian geranium)

    Rose (Bulgarian, Damascina, otto, Co2, , almost needs a section of it's own)

    Tagetes

    Tansy

    Tuberose

    Ylang Ylang

    Ylang Ylang Extra

    Violet leaf

     

    Greens:-

    Clary sage

    Galbanum (Small amount)

    Guiacwood (Small amount)

    Hemp

    Oakmoss (restricted)

    Patchouli

    Vetiver

     

    Woods:-

    Agarwood (oudh)

    Birch (white, sweet)

    Cedarwood (Atlas, Virginia, Chinese)

    Red cedar

     

    Sandalwood (eco friendly replaceable)

     

    Aromatic woods, leaves and stems:-

    Cedar Leaf

    Conifer Needle oils (rich in limonene)

    Cypress

    Fir Balsam

    Gurjun Balsam

    Ho Wood/ Ho Leaf

    Juniper

    Niaouli

    Neem

    Massoia

    Palo Santo

    Pine needle

    Spruce (black, hemlock)

    Ravensara

    Rosalina

    Rosewood (controlled species)

    Thuja

     

    Herbals:-

    Bay Leaf

    Chamomile (and Chamomile blue)

    Davana

    Hyssop

    Laurel

    Lovage

    Marjoram

    Myrtle (honey, lemon)

    Oregano

    Parsley

    Rosemary

    Sage (white, dalmation)

    Tarragon

    Tea tree

    Tobacco

    Thyme

    Verbena

    Wormwood

    Yarrow

     

    Spicy:-

    Anise and/or Flower Anise

    Ajwain (thymol)

    Asafoetida

    Basil

    Capsicum

    Cardamom

    Caraway

    Cassia

    Calamus

    Circuma

    Cinnamon (Leaf. bark, seed)

    Clove/clove bud/clove stem/clove leaf

    Coriander

    Cubeb

    Cumin

    Curry leaf

    Dill

    Fennel (bitter, sweet)

    Fenugreek

    Galangal

    Garlic

    Ginger

    Gingergrass

    Nutmeg and/or Mace

    Onion

    Pepper (white, pink, green, black)

    PImento

    Turmeric

    Sassafras

    Savory

     

    Lifting:-

    Camphor

    Cornmint

    Eucalyptus (many scent profiles see here)

    Peppermint

    Spearmint

    Wintergreen (beware toxicity)

     

    Gourmand:-

    Benzoin

    Coffee

    Tolu Balsam

    Tonka bean

    Vanilla

     

    Resinous:-

    Amber

    Copiaba balsam

    Elemi

    Frankincense

    Labdanum

    Myrrh

    Opopanax (sweet myrrh)

    Peru Balsam

     

    Smoky:- (Small amount)

    Birch tar

    Cade

     

    Ozonic/marine:-

    Ambergris (is gathered, but getting very hard to find decent stuff)

    Seaweed

     

    Animalic:- (there are good subs for these)

    Castoreum (mind your sources regarding cruelty)

    Civet (mind your sources regarding cruelty)

    Hyraceum (is gathered from a rock)

    Musk (not really worth hunting for anymore regarding cruelty and mostly illegal)

     

    Musky effects:-

    Ambrette Seed

    Angelica

    Carrot seed (Small amount)

    Celery seed

    Cepes

    Hay abs

    Mugwort

    Spikenard

     

     

    I can alter the list with more suggestions. Keep them rolling in.


    Edited by mumsy - 7/13/13 at 5:53am

    7/12/13 at 5:06pm

    pkiler said:



    Here's My thoughts:

     

    Citrus'  -   Add: 

    Kaffir Lime

    Blood Orange

     

    I need more specs for Petitgrain

     

    Flowers   -Add: 

    Orangeblossom

    Mimosa

    Helichrysum Italicum

    Ho Leaf / Magnolia leaf / Rosewood EO, (rich in linalool)

     

     - I need more specs for Lavender and Rose

     

    Woods  -Add:

    Fir Balsam

    Gurjun Balsam

    Conifer Needle oils rich in limonene

    Elemi

     

     - I need more specs for Cedar, too many types and wide differences

     

     

    Herbals -    Add:

    More Artemisia Family Members, Esp. Davana

    Tobacco Absolute

    Celery Seed

     

    Spices -   

    subst Mace for Nutmeg.  Nutmeg seems to have always failed me as "Nutmeg", while mace nails the odor profile of what I want Nutmeg to smell like.

     

     

    Lifting  -  

    1. I'm not really set with peppermint, I think that other mints might have better usage.  So I would add one or two more mints

    2. "Eucalyptus" is not specific enough, need more specs, because it can go in several directions.

     

     

    Resinous  -  Add:

    Labdanum

    Amber EO / Amber Fossilized Destructive distillation Eo, which *could* also satisf some smoky requirements

    7/13/13 at 1:49am

    mumsy said:



    Done. All suggestions welcome.

    7/13/13 at 2:16am

    David Ruskin said:



    Citrus

    Lime oil distilled 

    Mandarin oil green

     

    Woods

    Cedarwood Virginian

    Cedarwood Chinese

    Cedarwood Atlas

    Pine Needle 

     

    Floral

    Ylang Exra (or Grade 1)

    Lavender

    Lavandin

    7/13/13 at 4:41am

    JungleNYC said:



    Wow. This (plus the other) is going to be a great list!

    PS, mumsy, love the colours!

    Quick question, to clarify for us newbies:

    For those of us who are going at this by "trying to make a frag kinda like 'X' or 'Y'"… is it safe to assume that most modern frags have ZERO EOs in them?
    Quote:
    For much mainstream, mass-produced perfumery, avoiding naturals at all cost would be, it seems, the smart business move

    smile.gif

    7/13/13 at 5:14am

    mumsy said:



    Yep. Just avoid the lot! Lol

    7/13/13 at 12:33pm

    David Ruskin said:



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by JungleNYC View Post

    Wow. This (plus the other) is going to be a great list!

    PS, mumsy, love the colours!

    Quick question, to clarify for us newbies:

    For those of us who are going at this by "trying to make a frag kinda like 'X' or 'Y'"… is it safe to assume that most modern frags have ZERO EOs in them?
    smile.gif

    No, that is just ridiculous.   All fragrances contain some naturals; some more than others. 

    7/13/13 at 1:09pm

    JungleNYC said:



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post

    No, that is just ridiculous.   All fragrances contain some naturals; some more than others. 

    Ha! Different opinions! …now we're getting somewhere smile.gif

    What are those naturals?

    Which ones would you tend to use an EO instead of an AC equivalent?

    Are there any staples? Like Bergamot? Lavandar? Geranium? Patchouli?

    7/14/13 at 12:51am

    David Ruskin said:



    There are some Essential Oils that have been duplicated quite successfully.   Bergamot, Geranium and Ylang are three that come to mind.   I have smelled these and have to say they are pretty good .   Also they will be cheaper than the naturals, which is always an advantage.   However there are some oils that, for whatever reason, have not been duplicated; Patchouli, Vetivert, Cedarwood, etc.

     

    And, whilst the duplicates are good, they are not identical; each have their place in Perfumery.   I cannot think of a single fragrance that is made up of all synthetics; can you?

    7/14/13 at 5:53am

    DrSmellThis said:



    That Molecule thing and a few others, but not many.





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