I was referring in general to most of the stuff they've created in the past few years, L'art collection being one example. It's not that they are bad, but they are not as good as they could be - simply, one cannot create 10 top frags a year. Or charge those prices. Before, creations were few and far between.
Derby and Ame are actually reissues of older frags. Derby is a wonderful woody citrus leather. Lupin Dandy (or whatever it's called now) is nice, a smooth sweetish leather. Lupin voyou is a sporty frag that should have no place in the lineup.