For a gal who loves Fracas, Angel, Opium but can't stand rose scents. I prefer vintage scents and can't find anything really light for summer. Citrus and , tobacco and woodsy, leathery smells are nice too. Any new ideas for a newbie? Thx!
Some old masculines could have fit the description: citrus over a not too deep mossy/leathery base. (Eau Sauvage, Chanel pour monsieur, Eau d'Hadrien, Cravache) Unfortunately restrictions on oakmoss have hit this type of perfumes hard, and the current version of these perfumes is just a plain citrus.
I second O de Lancome: fresh zingy citrus up top, then morphing into a nice green slightly mossy base. Another possibility would be to go into green florals, which smell relatively fresh but often don't go into rose territory. Examples would be Cristalle, Futur, Silences, or the defunct Paco Rabanne Metal (as well as the Bel respiro mentioned by Xscent).
Genuinely recommending Le Dix by Balenciaga: one of the most beautifully balanced (and, in addition to that, quite affordable too) citrus-chypre-leathery fragrances. Along the lines of No. 5 and No. 19 by Chanel, even slightly reminding of Cristalle by the same fragrance house, as well as a bit of Miss Dior and Escale a Portofino by Dior, but in my opinion with an extra edge, depth and even opulence compared to the aforementioned classics.