As the fragrance has regrettably never been added to the BN database, here are my thoughts after purchasing a mini and giving it a few wearings on skin...
Les Nombres d'Or Violette Fumee by Mona di Orio
Violette Fumee opens with slightly powdery lavender coupling with mild powdery violet and relatively strong aqueous green violet leaf, with sweet honey-like opoponax rising from the base. The overall accord early-on comes off as honeyed herbal tea-like. In the early heart the staring powdery violet and aqueous violet leaf tandem remains, with the moderately honeyed now slightly powdery opoponax growing in intensity. During the late dry-down the violet leaf vacates the composition leaving traces of the remaining powdery violet flower to support the now starring powdery opoponax sans its earlier honeyed facets. Projection is below average, as is longevity at about 4 hours on skin.
I approached Violette Fumee with some trepidation after my last couple of disappointing outings from the house after Mona's untimely death. While many published notes remained elusive, what I *did* detect was a violet leaf dominant composition early-on that added some of the honeyed sweetness derived from opoponax and powder from the violet flower itself. The result is quite different smelling than I expected, with the accord coming off as a hybrid mix of slightly green mildly powdery skin lotion and honeyed herbal tea. This is an overall accord that is very difficult to describe and quite unique, smelling a lot better than it sounds. The only minor disappointment is during the late dry-down, when the opoponax base note dominates featuring its more dry resinous and powdery facets, enhanced further by the powder of the remaining violet flower. The powder level never reaches untenable levels but the overall late dry-down lacks the same level of innovation exhibited in the rest of the composition. The bottom line is the relatively expensive $330 per 100ml Les Nombres d'Or Violette Fumee with its underwhelming late dry-down and performance metrics is far from flawless, but still marks a strong return to form for the late Mona di Orio and the house bearing her namesake, earning a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5.