A new raw materiel created

    A new raw materiel created

    post #1 of 14
    Thread Starter 

    I recently saw that one of Amouage perfume had a base note of 'Agarwood smoke'.

    I could not find this note anywhere for sale, so Idecided to experiment and make my own.

    On a trip to Dubai i had bought some Agarwood or Oud wood chips, I took a piece of instant lighting Shisha charcoal, and when it was completely lit and no more carbon monoxide or other coal fumes where coming off, I placed the pieces of wood on it, it started to produce beautiful white fumes instantly, Iinverted a washed and dried and odourless jam jar on the fuming charcoal and placed two large nail under the jar so that the charcoal does not suffocate and die. After 15 minute the smoke stopped, Ilifted the bottle which was warm and placed the lid. After half an hour when the jar was cool I added 20ml of perfumers Alcohol to the jar and placed the lid and shook the jam jar, the perfumers alcohol turned into a lovely golden whiskey colour note.

    Caution ....be careful when opening the jam jar as the alcohol fumes willescape with force and dont smell as soon as the lid is off, pour the liquid in storing jar and treat as essential oil or an accord. Ifound it quite nice and something different.

    i will now check out Frankincense gum smoke.

    post #2 of 14
    post #3 of 14
    Very interesting.... thanks for sharing!

    Question: did the smoke scent persist, or get captured, by the perfumers alcohol?
    post #4 of 14
    I don't think it's new.
    Dior perfected it in Leather Oud & Oud Ispahan.
    post #5 of 14
    Thread Starter 

    its quite smoky and oudy....oud on its own as you would know is not fragrance but a smell, this note has a top note of smoke and base of oud. i did not want to burn a lot of oud, but now i will try this Frankincense resin which is much much cheaper then Oud.....lets see

    post #6 of 14
    Thread Starter 

    i am honoured by this mate.....lol ...me and Dior no comparison.

    post #7 of 14
    Thread Starter 

    Dear PK

    I will try your method, too but this get true smell of frankincense, i will burn mine on red hot charcoal which consumed all its carbon monoxide and fuel to capture pure Olibanum smoke...lol

    post #8 of 14

    Zulf, I can't take any credit for the technique I gave the link to... it is posted by our own Basenotes Buddy Jeroen Sparla.

    post #9 of 14

    This might work well in ordinary glass distilling apparatus. I see no reason why not. It may be worth looking into a hookah pipe type set up as it would be a more easily obtainable burning apparatus. The smoke bubbles through water for those so that may have a use with substitution of the liquid. Not advisable to usealcohol or you'd blow yourself up.

    Actually water might be fine. The oil would separate itself out and hopefully be smokey. An inexpensive fish tank pump could act as the draw.

    post #10 of 14

    My only question about DIY smoke scents is one of chemical composition of the resulting material. I don't personally think that by wearing this in a perfume it would pose any more harm than sitting by a camp fire but when regulatory agencies start demanding chemical analysis of perfumes before they hit any public market it seems to me that those smoke bases are highly likely to come under scrutiny. I'm not saying there isn't any merit to this, on the contrary, I like the idea and plan on experimenting myself. I'm just wondering how far it can be taken in light of the IFRA banning things...

    post #11 of 14

    IFRA compliance *IS* voluntary.

    And I Unvolunteered from compliance.

    post #12 of 14

    I get it, not trying to tow any party lines, I'm just not sure how concerned we need to be about future mandates as in "Are there any near regulatory MANDATES coming down the federal regulatory pike?". I'm in agreement with your sentiment. Do you not sell any perfumes in the EU? I thought compliance in the EU was regulated, no?

    post #13 of 14

    Currently not selling outside the USA, except through my website. I just may skip Europe and move on to the Gulf states and Brazil when I move outside the USA. The headaches will be tenfold less than trying to sell inside EU. The Europeans are destroying their own Perfumery Heritage. Why be party to destruction? hmm... It's sad to think that I can't take part in my own familial heritage countries through this ideology ofidiocy.

    post #14 of 14

    Sad indeed... but it's all for "the betterment of society and general health of the populace" right? Ha! Phhhhht!

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    9/16/13 at 3:14pm

    Zulf Khan said:



    I recently saw that one of Amouage perfume had a base note of 'Agarwood smoke'.

    I could not find this note anywhere for sale, so Idecided to experiment and make my own.

    On a trip to Dubai i had bought some Agarwood or Oud wood chips, I took a piece of instant lighting Shisha charcoal, and when it was completely lit and no more carbon monoxide or other coal fumes where coming off, I placed the pieces of wood on it, it started to produce beautiful white fumes instantly, Iinverted a washed and dried and odourless jam jar on the fuming charcoal and placed two large nail under the jar so that the charcoal does not suffocate and die. After 15 minute the smoke stopped, Ilifted the bottle which was warm and placed the lid. After half an hour when the jar was cool I added 20ml of perfumers Alcohol to the jar and placed the lid and shook the jam jar, the perfumers alcohol turned into a lovely golden whiskey colour note.

    Caution ....be careful when opening the jam jar as the alcohol fumes willescape with force and dont smell as soon as the lid is off, pour the liquid in storing jar and treat as essential oil or an accord. Ifound it quite nice and something different.

    i will now check out Frankincense gum smoke.

    9/16/13 at 5:06pm

    pkiler said:



    9/16/13 at 6:38pm

    remik said:



    Very interesting.... thanks for sharing!

    Question: did the smoke scent persist, or get captured, by the perfumers alcohol?

    9/17/13 at 11:46am

    hedonist222 said:



    I don't think it's new.
    Dior perfected it in Leather Oud & Oud Ispahan.

    9/17/13 at 12:57pm

    Zulf Khan said:



    its quite smoky and oudy....oud on its own as you would know is not fragrance but a smell, this note has a top note of smoke and base of oud. i did not want to burn a lot of oud, but now i will try this Frankincense resin which is much much cheaper then Oud.....lets see

    9/17/13 at 12:58pm

    Zulf Khan said:



    i am honoured by this mate.....lol ...me and Dior no comparison.

    9/18/13 at 12:34pm

    Zulf Khan said:



    Dear PK

    I will try your method, too but this get true smell of frankincense, i will burn mine on red hot charcoal which consumed all its carbon monoxide and fuel to capture pure Olibanum smoke...lol

    9/18/13 at 11:05pm

    pkiler said:



    Zulf, I can't take any credit for the technique I gave the link to... it is posted by our own Basenotes Buddy Jeroen Sparla.

    9/19/13 at 12:38am

    mumsy said:



    This might work well in ordinary glass distilling apparatus. I see no reason why not. It may be worth looking into a hookah pipe type set up as it would be a more easily obtainable burning apparatus. The smoke bubbles through water for those so that may have a use with substitution of the liquid. Not advisable to usealcohol or you'd blow yourself up.

    Actually water might be fine. The oil would separate itself out and hopefully be smokey. An inexpensive fish tank pump could act as the draw.

    9/20/13 at 8:50am

    JEBeasley said:



    My only question about DIY smoke scents is one of chemical composition of the resulting material. I don't personally think that by wearing this in a perfume it would pose any more harm than sitting by a camp fire but when regulatory agencies start demanding chemical analysis of perfumes before they hit any public market it seems to me that those smoke bases are highly likely to come under scrutiny. I'm not saying there isn't any merit to this, on the contrary, I like the idea and plan on experimenting myself. I'm just wondering how far it can be taken in light of the IFRA banning things...

    9/20/13 at 9:13am

    pkiler said:



    IFRA compliance *IS* voluntary.

    And I Unvolunteered from compliance.

    9/20/13 at 9:41am

    JEBeasley said:



    I get it, not trying to tow any party lines, I'm just not sure how concerned we need to be about future mandates as in "Are there any near regulatory MANDATES coming down the federal regulatory pike?". I'm in agreement with your sentiment. Do you not sell any perfumes in the EU? I thought compliance in the EU was regulated, no?

    9/20/13 at 10:18am

    pkiler said:



    Currently not selling outside the USA, except through my website. I just may skip Europe and move on to the Gulf states and Brazil when I move outside the USA. The headaches will be tenfold less than trying to sell inside EU. The Europeans are destroying their own Perfumery Heritage. Why be party to destruction? hmm... It's sad to think that I can't take part in my own familial heritage countries through this ideology ofidiocy.

    9/20/13 at 10:26am

    JEBeasley said:



    Sad indeed... but it's all for "the betterment of society and general health of the populace" right? Ha! Phhhhht!





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