Originally Posted by violetbat
thanks xixx I'm going to look that one up straight away, sounds very very interesting!
cacio, thanks for the info. Do you know why animalic substances have been removed? Is it trend or for moral reasons?
Civet (civet cat), musk (deer) and castoreum (beaver) are not, or very infrequently used any longer because they come from animals... it is a moral initiative. There are synthetics that replace them now.
To my mind, it is why so many of the great scents of the last 30-40 years had to be reformulated. And they are former shells of themselves! Not that I condone harming or killing animals for the sake of making perfume, I don't. Still, the old juice is missed.
Ambergris, from sperm whales, is allowed if it is "beach harvested." The whale expels it into the ocean as waste, then it washes up onto the shoreline. Whales are not hunted or harmed in this process, so no moral dilemma here.
But ambergris is difficult to find, takes months/years to cure properly, and is therefore VERY expensive, so is not used much. You might find it in some niche perfumes or the very exclusive big houses, whose clients are willing to pay for top-notch fragrances.
In my formulas (currently for my personal use only), I use ambergris frequently.
Life is too short to wear perfume you don't LOVE, and I'm willing to pay for it.