Originally Posted by heeton
I recently dived into this smelly world after being fed up with not finding a scent I liked. After lots of reading here (and elsewhere) I've bought a few ml of things to try out, and settled on something like this. I'd love to get some feedback to find out what mistakes I might be making :)
I'm going for a clean, woody base-note heavy thing here. I don't like flowery or classic perfume smells.
(I have experimented with essential oils and fragrance oils, and I've been much happier with the artificial stuff like below)
* Vetiveryl ace
The exact quantities haven't been settled on, I started with equal parts of everything and that worked well enough. I'm aware that might not be an ideal blend, so I'll be experimenting more soon.
Again, I'm going for something woody and deep, that lingers. I'm thinking of adding a little citrus (grapefruit? orange?) or mint to add some clean high notes to it.
First up can I just say that is absolutely the best reason for getting involved in DIY perfumery. I'm also pleased to see that you are working with pure aroma chemicals rather than pre-blended fragrance oils, so there is every chance you can arrive at something you'll love and be able to recreate it reliably and adapt it to suit different moods and occasions.
So to some practical suggestions:
I think cedramber and vertofix work best when you have about three times as much cedramber as vertofix: they are a good combination.
You could also make timbersilk the bulk of your formula: try making it a third of the concentrate as a starting point and see what you think.
Other woody-amber materials that you could consider include Bornafix and, particularly to give you a nice woody top note, Vertenex. There are a host of options . . .
Building on Paul's ionone suggestion, my top choice for your composition would be Dihydro Ionone Beta, which has a nice woody / ambery tone to it. If you wanted to further build on the orris connotation that would add then you could also look at materials like Boisiris, Iriswood and Koavone all of which have an iris aspect along with the woody-amber, though none is easy to buy in small amounts at the moment.
I would also recommend adding something to build on the freshness: linalool would be good or perhaps ethyl linalool and if you like that you could go further in that direction with top-notes such as linalyl acetate or ethyl linalyl acetate all of which would work well with your existing accords.
If you are going to use mint I would recommend mint absolute (as long as you don't mind the fragrance being a bit green) as it's scent is more natural (like garden mint rather than toothpaste or chewing gum) and fuller.
On the other hand if you like the citrus route, then I'd include some petitgrain to help smooth the transition from citrus to wood. Bergamot is a good, classic choice but if you want something more unusual you could try cedrat or green mandarin, both of which I use often for this type of work.