Crabtree & Evelyn get on the Aoud train!

    Crabtree & Evelyn get on the Aoud train!

    post #1 of 18
    Thread Starter 

    Hi all, just got an email about this new collection 6 hours ago, and figured I'd best share it.

     

    It seems the new owners of C&E are pushing for a bigger line with more high-end prices. Following right up from the recent 100mL Heritage EDC collection comes the Perfumes of the Night Garden EDP range.

     

    In the collection is:

     

    1) Ottoman Rose

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Ottoman Rose Eau de Parfum.

     
    Inspired by the dawn gathering of this esteemed flower’s petals, Ottoman Rose blends the fragrance notes of ingredients that have been picked from a shaded garden just as their perfume peaks. Blackberry, carnation and fine vintage leather give a modern touch to this rich Oriental rose. 

     

    UK website says:

     

    In the time of the Ottoman Empire the ancient city of Taif was known as ‘Arabian Rose’. Inspired by the dawn gathering of this esteemed flower’s petals, Ottoman Rose blends the fragrance notes of ingredients that have been picked from a shaded garden just as their perfume peaks. Blackberry, carnation and fine vintage leather give a modern touch to this rich Oriental rose.

    • A rich oriental rose fragrance beautifully combined with exotic woods and fine vintage leather
    • Velvety rose with a deep smoky base perfect for evening or for a stronger day scent
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfum
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Capturing the mystery of a shaded garden as night gives way to dawn, our Ottoman Rose Eau de Parfum is inspired by the lush roses that flourished in the ancient Ottoman Empire city of Taif, also known as "Arabian Rose". Traditionally gathered in the early morning hours when its awakening blooms were at the peak of fragrance, this Oriental rose takes on a modern touch with notes of blackberry, carnation and fine vintage leather.

    • A rich, burgeoning and velvety fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

    2) Assam Oudh

     

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Assam Oudh Eau de Parfum.
     
    Celebrating the legendary scents of the Middle East and a citrus signature characteristic of Crabtree & Evelyn, Assam Oudh balances notes of crystallised lemon, blood orange and bergamot with rich golden oudh in a fresh and smoky blend.

     

    UK website says:

     

    Celebrating the legendary scents of the Middle East and a citrus signature characteristic of Crabtree & Evelyn, Assam Oudh balances notes of crystallised lemon, blood orange and bergamot with rich golden oudh in a fresh and smoky blend. The citrus top notes give way to accords of rich golden oudh, rounded by sensual pepper and peony. A blend of earthy patchouli and vetiver provides a wonderful richness to this distinctive oudh fragrance.

    • A refined citrus scent with wonderful rich woody undertones
    • A refreshing scent suitable for day or evening with an uplifting woody feel
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfum
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Native to India and possessing a highly revered aroma that has made it an integral part of daily rituals throughout the centuries, oudh wood emanates a smoky and velvety richness that captivates the senses. We added our signature citrus twist to this longtime precious scent by blending in notes of crystallised lemon, juicy blood orange and zesty bergamot, whilst patchouli and vetiver accords add an earthy element to a fragrance as deep as the shadows of the night.

    • A refined, smoky and intense fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

     

     

    3) Kashmir Musk

     

     

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Kashmir Musk Eau de Parfum.
     
    Inspired by the Arabic philosophy that musk is bathed in the aroma of its surroundings, Kashmir Musk embodies the scented trail from valleys and mountains to Middle Eastern souks. Accords of powdery English iris and exotic spices float on seductive wafts of grey musk, like sheer mists drifting through the night.
     

     

    UK website says:

     

    Inspired by the Arabic philosophy that musk is bathed in the aroma of its surroundings, Kashmir Musk embodies the scented trail from valleys and mountains to Middle Eastern souks. Accords of powdery English iris and exotic spices float on seductive wafts of grey musk, like sheer mists drifting through the night. The fragrance journey culminates in rich and creamy sandalwood overlaid with a woody tone to ensure a lasting power on the skin.

    • A seductive soft floral scent blended with a powdery base, soft musk and woody notes
    • A gentle scent suitable for day or evening with a powdery softness
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfum
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Drawing on the ancient Arabic belief that musk is bathed in the aroma of its surroundings, we found inspiration for our Kashmir Musk Eau de Parfum in the sweeping valleys, rugged mountains and aromatic souks of a region dubbed "Heaven on Earth" for its natural beauty. Against this exotic backdrop, we added silky accords of English iris, night blooming jasmine and warm spices that float on wafting plumes of grey musk like a sheer mist illuminated by a moonlit sky.

    • A billowing, seductive and silky fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

     

     

     

    4) Persian Thé

     

     

     

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Persian Thé Eau de Parfum.
     
    Tea originally travelled to Persia via the Silk Road and became a cherished daily ritual. The steeped leaves produce an aroma similar to Lapsang Souchong. Persian Thé captures this intriguing fragrance, redolent of rich, earthy scents stirred by the cool night air. The aroma of smoky black tea is freshened by cardamom and cinnamon then deepened with Atlas cedarwood, labdanum and amber.
     

     

    UK website says:

     

    Tea originally travelled to Persia via the Silk Road and became a cherished daily ritual. The steeped leaves produce an aroma similar to Lapsang Souchong. Persian Thé captures this intriguing fragrance, redolent of rich, earthy scents stirred by the cool night air. The aroma of smoky black tea is freshened by cardamom and cinnamon then deepened with Atlas cedarwood, labdanum and amber. A harmonious fragrance blend of amber, labdanum and Atlas cedarwood creates a smooth, sweet warmth with hints of incense and leather.

    • A stylish and smoky blend of black tea with a warm base of woods and amber
    • A rich deep and warm scent perfect for evening or for a stronger day scent
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfume
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Tea has long been steeped in culture as a cherished daily ritual, but its journey to becoming an enduring treasure began centuries ago en route to Persia along the fabled Silk Road. Our Persian Thé Eau de Parfum captures the distinctive aroma of smoky black tea as it mingles with notes of cardamom, cinnamon, Atlas cedarwood and amber that are carried on the cool night breezes rising off the Caspian Sea.

    • A stylish, smoky and charismatic fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

     

     

    They are priced at AUD175/GBP140/USD198 for 100mL, and are apparently doing a free silk scarf promo with purchase.

     

    I hope the Canberra City store has this range when I visit tomorrow - sure, the Middle Eastern perfume may be becoming a little old hat, but I've got a 30% off voucher :)

    The first two have my attention, although C&E's reputation as a purveyor of more feminine fragrances has me thinking that the Rose and Musk are going to be heavy on the powdery rose and iris, respectively.

    post #2 of 18

    Thanks for the info., timdoeswell - their soap, etc., products are pretty good.

    post #3 of 18

    Interesting....

     

    I had no idea C&E were under new ownership. Care to tell us who are the new owners?

    post #4 of 18
    Thread Starter 
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by lpp View Post
     

    Thanks for the info., timdoeswell - their soap, etc., products are pretty good.

     

    Definitely. I got into them through their shave gear that, with the exception of the new West Indian Limes shaving soap, is terrific.

     

    The WIL EDC remains an absolutely corking summer scent, and when there's a sale on, it becomes one of the best steals you can buy.

     

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by rum View Post
     

    Interesting....

     

    I had no idea C&E were under new ownership. Care to tell us who are the new owners?

     

    Apparently it's been bought (around a year ago) buy a HK group. I've been told that the previous owners were a Malaysian company.

     

    I've also been told that the new owners are keen to restore the brand to what it once was, and are increasing the products available accordingly. More fragrances and shaving gear are never a bad thing.

     

    The recent EDC range were overpriced, but on sale in Oz they come down to a somewhat more reasonable $56/100mL. Hungary Water and Old Windsor are the best.

    post #5 of 18

    Sounds hopeful!

    post #6 of 18
    Thanks for the info about the new line.
    post #7 of 18
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by timdoeswell View Post

     

    Apparently it's been bought (around a year ago) buy a HK group. I've been told that the previous owners were a Malaysian company.

     

    I've also been told that the new owners are keen to restore the brand to what it once was, and are increasing the products available accordingly. More fragrances and shaving gear are never a bad thing.

     

    The recent EDC range were overpriced, but on sale in Oz they come down to a somewhat more reasonable $56/100mL. Hungary Water and Old Windsor are the best.

     

    Thanks for that! Totally agree that this can only be a positive change. So long as it's not P&G that bought them...!

    post #8 of 18

    That pricing is certainly optimistic! It puts these products on the same level as many niche offerings, so it will be interesting to see whether they're worth it.

     

    On a side note, does anyone know what synthesized oud molecule is responsible for the slew of oud-based scents over the past few years? Thinking about it, there are probably several by now. 

    post #9 of 18
    Thread Starter 
    Tried all four of them today, and very few of my predictions held true.

    Aoud was the least interesting (save for the opening), the rose was not powdery at all, and the tea was a standout.

    Assam Oud

    Too soft and lacking any aoud were my initial impressions.

    A very nice citrus opening that unfortunately didn’t lead into anything exciting, and certainly nothing resembling aoud.
    Maybe we’ve been spoiled by the aoud behemoths available, as only digging my nose into my arm and drawing in hard after it had dried down, did I detect even a hint of that dark cork-like smell of aoud.

    The base is a pleasant (and very restrained) patchouli that is still fairly soft, along with some slightly sweet woody notes.

    This had the worst projection of the four, and really is a skin scent fairly soon after application.


    Persian Thé

    From the weakest to one of the strongest – this juice opens with lots of sweet spices, primarily cinnamon, and gets sweeter as it progresses.

    From the opening to the drydown this surprised me, as it doesn’t use the standard tea notes that we’re used to in GPH2 and Bulgari PH (which had me trepidatious as to whether or not I’d like it); rather it lives up to its monicker, as it is much more of a chai smell than what we westerners call tea.

    Sweet, spicy and woody, it dries down into a very creamy sandalwood that gives me much more of a coconut feel than I get from the excellent Tam Dao. This is followed by dry florals that sit fairly close to the skin, but not so close that a passer-by won’t smell them.
    These basenotes turn a bit waxy - think table candles - after a few hours, and this is really the only noticeable blemish on this fragrance.

    Very surprising, and rather impressive, though I’m still undecided on whether I want to smell like this.


    Kashmir Musk

    What a stellar opening! Strong florals (jasmine?) and spice had me ready to buy this one on the spot.

    Vanilla works its way into the mix, and after it and the opening florals soften, the predicted powdery iris/orris come to the fore. Crabtree & Evelyn are famed for their traditional English florals, and this is no exception - they put the POW in powder. This part turned me off a bit. It had some very good projection – the powder was flying up from the crook of my elbow as I worked.

    After the powder assault ceases, a musky base (with a little dirtiness) kicks in, becoming the third phase of a very segmented fragrance. I’ll leave it up to others to decide if having three incredibly distinct stages is a good thing or not (I have no feelings one way or the other).

    This musky end is the least interesting part of Kashmir Musk, and despite the powder blast, I find myself quite liking this.


    Ottoman Rose

    I predicted this was going to be the typical C&E powdery rose…..WRONG! Not at all the C&E style, this – if Persian Thé was a reminder that this range was intended to be all about the Middle East, Ottoman Rose rammed that point home.

    The saffron at the beginning immediately tells you that this is something exotic and unfamiliar (at least, to people not used to saffron in fragrances) and sets the tone for what I think will be the most challenging fragrance for usual C&E shoppers.
    No powder, lots of rich rose and dark spice, greenery, a little fruit and some heavy woods feature here, and if I were to compare this to anything, it would be the wonderful work of Paul Kiler in his Dirty Rose.

    The leather and woods in the drydown give this the heavy feel I was hoping for in Assam Oud.
    The base gives off a sharp, almost metallic, feel for an hour or so, before the leather kicks back in and smooths everything out until it fades.

    I’m not sure the longevity is too good on this, but I’ll be giving it a full testing again, for sure.

    Conclusion

    The Ottoman Rose and the Persian Thé are my favourites from first wearing, but these impressions are all with only one spray on my skin. I’m going to try them all again over the next few days.
    I can’t see myself buying Assam Oud, unless my nose is having a REALLY off day. That stuff was just too weak.
    Edited by timdoeswell - 10/17/13 at 12:14am
    post #10 of 18

    Do you know who designed them & where they're made, timdoeswell?

    post #11 of 18
    Thread Starter 

    No idea, unfortunately.

     

    I'll have a look at the box tomorrow to see where they're made, and I'll ask the manager (she's lovely and a great source of info) who made them, but I doubt I'll find out.

     

    I think the C&E scents are like L'Occitane ones, in that they're made by an unknown person or persons in-house.

    post #12 of 18

    Thank you!

    post #13 of 18
    Thread Starter 
    Sorry for the late reply - can confirm that they are made in the USA, and they are halal certified :S
    post #14 of 18

    10/16/13 at 12:30am

    timdoeswell said:



    Hi all, just got an email about this new collection 6 hours ago, and figured I'd best share it.

     

    It seems the new owners of C&E are pushing for a bigger line with more high-end prices. Following right up from the recent 100mL Heritage EDC collection comes the Perfumes of the Night Garden EDP range.

     

    In the collection is:

     

    1) Ottoman Rose

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Ottoman Rose Eau de Parfum.

     
    Inspired by the dawn gathering of this esteemed flower’s petals, Ottoman Rose blends the fragrance notes of ingredients that have been picked from a shaded garden just as their perfume peaks. Blackberry, carnation and fine vintage leather give a modern touch to this rich Oriental rose. 

     

    UK website says:

     

    In the time of the Ottoman Empire the ancient city of Taif was known as ‘Arabian Rose’. Inspired by the dawn gathering of this esteemed flower’s petals, Ottoman Rose blends the fragrance notes of ingredients that have been picked from a shaded garden just as their perfume peaks. Blackberry, carnation and fine vintage leather give a modern touch to this rich Oriental rose.

    • A rich oriental rose fragrance beautifully combined with exotic woods and fine vintage leather
    • Velvety rose with a deep smoky base perfect for evening or for a stronger day scent
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfum
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Capturing the mystery of a shaded garden as night gives way to dawn, our Ottoman Rose Eau de Parfum is inspired by the lush roses that flourished in the ancient Ottoman Empire city of Taif, also known as "Arabian Rose". Traditionally gathered in the early morning hours when its awakening blooms were at the peak of fragrance, this Oriental rose takes on a modern touch with notes of blackberry, carnation and fine vintage leather.

    • A rich, burgeoning and velvety fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

    2) Assam Oudh

     

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Assam Oudh Eau de Parfum.
     
    Celebrating the legendary scents of the Middle East and a citrus signature characteristic of Crabtree & Evelyn, Assam Oudh balances notes of crystallised lemon, blood orange and bergamot with rich golden oudh in a fresh and smoky blend.

     

    UK website says:

     

    Celebrating the legendary scents of the Middle East and a citrus signature characteristic of Crabtree & Evelyn, Assam Oudh balances notes of crystallised lemon, blood orange and bergamot with rich golden oudh in a fresh and smoky blend. The citrus top notes give way to accords of rich golden oudh, rounded by sensual pepper and peony. A blend of earthy patchouli and vetiver provides a wonderful richness to this distinctive oudh fragrance.

    • A refined citrus scent with wonderful rich woody undertones
    • A refreshing scent suitable for day or evening with an uplifting woody feel
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfum
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Native to India and possessing a highly revered aroma that has made it an integral part of daily rituals throughout the centuries, oudh wood emanates a smoky and velvety richness that captivates the senses. We added our signature citrus twist to this longtime precious scent by blending in notes of crystallised lemon, juicy blood orange and zesty bergamot, whilst patchouli and vetiver accords add an earthy element to a fragrance as deep as the shadows of the night.

    • A refined, smoky and intense fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

     

     

    3) Kashmir Musk

     

     

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Kashmir Musk Eau de Parfum.
     
    Inspired by the Arabic philosophy that musk is bathed in the aroma of its surroundings, Kashmir Musk embodies the scented trail from valleys and mountains to Middle Eastern souks. Accords of powdery English iris and exotic spices float on seductive wafts of grey musk, like sheer mists drifting through the night.
     

     

    UK website says:

     

    Inspired by the Arabic philosophy that musk is bathed in the aroma of its surroundings, Kashmir Musk embodies the scented trail from valleys and mountains to Middle Eastern souks. Accords of powdery English iris and exotic spices float on seductive wafts of grey musk, like sheer mists drifting through the night. The fragrance journey culminates in rich and creamy sandalwood overlaid with a woody tone to ensure a lasting power on the skin.

    • A seductive soft floral scent blended with a powdery base, soft musk and woody notes
    • A gentle scent suitable for day or evening with a powdery softness
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfum
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Drawing on the ancient Arabic belief that musk is bathed in the aroma of its surroundings, we found inspiration for our Kashmir Musk Eau de Parfum in the sweeping valleys, rugged mountains and aromatic souks of a region dubbed "Heaven on Earth" for its natural beauty. Against this exotic backdrop, we added silky accords of English iris, night blooming jasmine and warm spices that float on wafting plumes of grey musk like a sheer mist illuminated by a moonlit sky.

    • A billowing, seductive and silky fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

     

     

     

    4) Persian Thé

     

     

     

     

     


    Australian website says:

     

    Taking inspiration from the Middle East, where exotic smoky woods, rich resins, regal flowers and plump citrus fruits enchant the senses at every turn, the aroma of flora blooming in the shadows is perfectly recreated with this luxurious Persian Thé Eau de Parfum.
     
    Tea originally travelled to Persia via the Silk Road and became a cherished daily ritual. The steeped leaves produce an aroma similar to Lapsang Souchong. Persian Thé captures this intriguing fragrance, redolent of rich, earthy scents stirred by the cool night air. The aroma of smoky black tea is freshened by cardamom and cinnamon then deepened with Atlas cedarwood, labdanum and amber.
     

     

    UK website says:

     

    Tea originally travelled to Persia via the Silk Road and became a cherished daily ritual. The steeped leaves produce an aroma similar to Lapsang Souchong. Persian Thé captures this intriguing fragrance, redolent of rich, earthy scents stirred by the cool night air. The aroma of smoky black tea is freshened by cardamom and cinnamon then deepened with Atlas cedarwood, labdanum and amber. A harmonious fragrance blend of amber, labdanum and Atlas cedarwood creates a smooth, sweet warmth with hints of incense and leather.

    • A stylish and smoky blend of black tea with a warm base of woods and amber
    • A rich deep and warm scent perfect for evening or for a stronger day scent
    • Luxurious Eau de Parfume
    • Comes in a beautiful presentation box

     

    American website says:

     

    Tea has long been steeped in culture as a cherished daily ritual, but its journey to becoming an enduring treasure began centuries ago en route to Persia along the fabled Silk Road. Our Persian Thé Eau de Parfum captures the distinctive aroma of smoky black tea as it mingles with notes of cardamom, cinnamon, Atlas cedarwood and amber that are carried on the cool night breezes rising off the Caspian Sea.

    • A stylish, smoky and charismatic fragrance
    • Spray bottle delivers a steady mist of fragrance
    • Formulated without propylene glycol

     

     

     

    They are priced at AUD175/GBP140/USD198 for 100mL, and are apparently doing a free silk scarf promo with purchase.

     

    I hope the Canberra City store has this range when I visit tomorrow - sure, the Middle Eastern perfume may be becoming a little old hat, but I've got a 30% off voucher :)

    The first two have my attention, although C&E's reputation as a purveyor of more feminine fragrances has me thinking that the Rose and Musk are going to be heavy on the powdery rose and iris, respectively.

    10/16/13 at 1:23am

    lpp said:



    Thanks for the info., timdoeswell - their soap, etc., products are pretty good.

    10/16/13 at 1:42am

    rum said:



    Interesting....

     

    I had no idea C&E were under new ownership. Care to tell us who are the new owners?

    10/16/13 at 2:45am

    timdoeswell said:



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by lpp View Post
     

    Thanks for the info., timdoeswell - their soap, etc., products are pretty good.

     

    Definitely. I got into them through their shave gear that, with the exception of the new West Indian Limes shaving soap, is terrific.

     

    The WIL EDC remains an absolutely corking summer scent, and when there's a sale on, it becomes one of the best steals you can buy.

     

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by rum View Post
     

    Interesting....

     

    I had no idea C&E were under new ownership. Care to tell us who are the new owners?

     

    Apparently it's been bought (around a year ago) buy a HK group. I've been told that the previous owners were a Malaysian company.

     

    I've also been told that the new owners are keen to restore the brand to what it once was, and are increasing the products available accordingly. More fragrances and shaving gear are never a bad thing.

     

    The recent EDC range were overpriced, but on sale in Oz they come down to a somewhat more reasonable $56/100mL. Hungary Water and Old Windsor are the best.

    10/16/13 at 2:47am

    lpp said:



    Sounds hopeful!

    10/16/13 at 3:46am

    hednic said:



    Thanks for the info about the new line.

    10/16/13 at 4:18am

    rum said:



    Quote:
    Originally Posted by timdoeswell View Post

     

    Apparently it's been bought (around a year ago) buy a HK group. I've been told that the previous owners were a Malaysian company.

     

    I've also been told that the new owners are keen to restore the brand to what it once was, and are increasing the products available accordingly. More fragrances and shaving gear are never a bad thing.

     

    The recent EDC range were overpriced, but on sale in Oz they come down to a somewhat more reasonable $56/100mL. Hungary Water and Old Windsor are the best.

     

    Thanks for that! Totally agree that this can only be a positive change. So long as it's not P&G that bought them...!

    10/16/13 at 5:31am

    saminlondon said:



    That pricing is certainly optimistic! It puts these products on the same level as many niche offerings, so it will be interesting to see whether they're worth it.

     

    On a side note, does anyone know what synthesized oud molecule is responsible for the slew of oud-based scents over the past few years? Thinking about it, there are probably several by now. 

    10/16/13 at 8:58pm

    timdoeswell said:



    Tried all four of them today, and very few of my predictions held true.

    Aoud was the least interesting (save for the opening), the rose was not powdery at all, and the tea was a standout.

    Assam Oud

    Too soft and lacking any aoud were my initial impressions.

    A very nice citrus opening that unfortunately didn’t lead into anything exciting, and certainly nothing resembling aoud.
    Maybe we’ve been spoiled by the aoud behemoths available, as only digging my nose into my arm and drawing in hard after it had dried down, did I detect even a hint of that dark cork-like smell of aoud.

    The base is a pleasant (and very restrained) patchouli that is still fairly soft, along with some slightly sweet woody notes.

    This had the worst projection of the four, and really is a skin scent fairly soon after application.


    Persian Thé

    From the weakest to one of the strongest – this juice opens with lots of sweet spices, primarily cinnamon, and gets sweeter as it progresses.

    From the opening to the drydown this surprised me, as it doesn’t use the standard tea notes that we’re used to in GPH2 and Bulgari PH (which had me trepidatious as to whether or not I’d like it); rather it lives up to its monicker, as it is much more of a chai smell than what we westerners call tea.

    Sweet, spicy and woody, it dries down into a very creamy sandalwood that gives me much more of a coconut feel than I get from the excellent Tam Dao. This is followed by dry florals that sit fairly close to the skin, but not so close that a passer-by won’t smell them.
    These basenotes turn a bit waxy - think table candles - after a few hours, and this is really the only noticeable blemish on this fragrance.

    Very surprising, and rather impressive, though I’m still undecided on whether I want to smell like this.


    Kashmir Musk

    What a stellar opening! Strong florals (jasmine?) and spice had me ready to buy this one on the spot.

    Vanilla works its way into the mix, and after it and the opening florals soften, the predicted powdery iris/orris come to the fore. Crabtree & Evelyn are famed for their traditional English florals, and this is no exception - they put the POW in powder. This part turned me off a bit. It had some very good projection – the powder was flying up from the crook of my elbow as I worked.

    After the powder assault ceases, a musky base (with a little dirtiness) kicks in, becoming the third phase of a very segmented fragrance. I’ll leave it up to others to decide if having three incredibly distinct stages is a good thing or not (I have no feelings one way or the other).

    This musky end is the least interesting part of Kashmir Musk, and despite the powder blast, I find myself quite liking this.


    Ottoman Rose

    I predicted this was going to be the typical C&E powdery rose…..WRONG! Not at all the C&E style, this – if Persian Thé was a reminder that this range was intended to be all about the Middle East, Ottoman Rose rammed that point home.

    The saffron at the beginning immediately tells you that this is something exotic and unfamiliar (at least, to people not used to saffron in fragrances) and sets the tone for what I think will be the most challenging fragrance for usual C&E shoppers.
    No powder, lots of rich rose and dark spice, greenery, a little fruit and some heavy woods feature here, and if I were to compare this to anything, it would be the wonderful work of Paul Kiler in his Dirty Rose.

    The leather and woods in the drydown give this the heavy feel I was hoping for in Assam Oud.
    The base gives off a sharp, almost metallic, feel for an hour or so, before the leather kicks back in and smooths everything out until it fades.

    I’m not sure the longevity is too good on this, but I’ll be giving it a full testing again, for sure.

    Conclusion

    The Ottoman Rose and the Persian Thé are my favourites from first wearing, but these impressions are all with only one spray on my skin. I’m going to try them all again over the next few days.
    I can’t see myself buying Assam Oud, unless my nose is having a REALLY off day. That stuff was just too weak.
    Edited by timdoeswell - 10/17/13 at 12:14am

    10/17/13 at 1:44am

    lpp said:



    Do you know who designed them & where they're made, timdoeswell?

    10/17/13 at 1:52am

    timdoeswell said:



    No idea, unfortunately.

     

    I'll have a look at the box tomorrow to see where they're made, and I'll ask the manager (she's lovely and a great source of info) who made them, but I doubt I'll find out.

     

    I think the C&E scents are like L'Occitane ones, in that they're made by an unknown person or persons in-house.

    10/17/13 at 2:35am

    lpp said:



    Thank you!

    10/23/13 at 8:27pm

    timdoeswell said:



    Sorry for the late reply - can confirm that they are made in the USA, and they are halal certified :S