by Marian Bendeth, 08 October 2007
Learning first hand, the visual, olfactory, branding and design of perfumery, Ricci set his sails for bigger seas, namely his own perfume brands. He started by opening ‘Juliette has a Gun’ in 2005, focusing his scent binoculars on famed perfumer Francis Kurkdjian (Jean Paul Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez, Guerlain.) He describes their relationship as a ‘mutual river’ towards a desired theme. Ricci then explains with zeal that this is William Shakespeare's Juliette with a ying of innocence and a yang of getting even with anyone who double crosses her, the modern woman. Only this time she is armed! The bullets are rose-filled, each scent a scenario playing around a different rose specie, a fragrant Shakespearian saga. He explains his love of offering roses to women!! And he means every kind of beautiful woman – ‘women are a gift to man’ says the debonair Playboy with a twinkle in his eye. He explains how he feels the fragrance industry have made some rose blends into “little granny scents’ and his motivation is to modernize the rose theme by making them au courant but romantic at the same time. He adds as an afterthought ‘I am a passionate man and there is no compromise. I love precision in all that I do and especially in my products. I have to be honest and try to aim towards perfection.’
His latest two launches (three more to come) play off the duality of a woman. Picture the innocent, sensuous beauty of Shakepeare's Juliette 'Miss Charming’ with delicate notes of: Centifolia (Moroccan) rose, musk, wild fruits -mandarin and lychee. She is pure of heart, every guy's dream girl. Now, give that innocent lass a bullet-proof vest, throw her in with a bunch of males with a lot of angst, and you get Lady Vengeance.....with the richness of Damascene (Bulgarian) rose, patchouli, tempered by a dab of vanilla, a wanton scent, enigmatic and sensuous.
I wonder if he is Romeo? and if he has a muse? If not, could he describe this woman to me? He tells me ‘My muse is fictional, she’s a brunette and she’s very versatile – lots of faces, she can be the worst and the best. There is a lot of energy. I am attracted to both apparent innocence (it’s cute to be naive) and women who are controlling the game and yet still know how to have fun.’ Ricci is quick to add ‘The link between Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance is that they are both born to seduce. Romanticism – there is one thing in the world and that is to love.’
Calling himself an ‘extremist’ he is also very calculating and deliberate when it comes to perfection. It took over 150 lab samples for each scent to meet his expectations. The flacon and packaging was also designed by Ricci and is made of a heavy glass with delicate scrolling but don’t call it (“(Gothic says Ricci – I hate that word’). The adorning ribbon bends back when opening the lid. One can assume the colours of black/white signify the dark and innocence of the female psyche.
I ask if he was involved with the new Ricci scent ‘Nina’ and he is emphatic when he says ‘No’. Ricci Parfums are now owned by the Puig Group out of Spain but he recollects he first lost his heart to ‘L’air du Temps’ , the family fragrance his mother favoured. He also loves Ricci classics such as: ‘Farouche’, ‘Phileas’ and ‘Signoricci’, all landmarks and milestones in his rich lineage.
Making perfumes is not Ricci's only joy. During his downtime, he also enjoys the thrill of action, traveling, the calmness of the countryside, sketching art (he is an admirer of the late Basquiat), listening to the music of Pearl Jam to Fiona Apple and some dark reading that he won’t reveal and my mind goes to places I won’t reveal either!
Another secret passion of Ricci’s is to be the Creative Director of a Fashion House one day. He also has a love of fashion as he admires the buttons on my jacket studying the details like an art aficionado. If his drive is anything like his other great passion- racing his Porsche in the Le Mans or the Grand Prix of Endurance, he will most likely cross that finishing line well before his time as well.
The time is 3:00 p.m. and Ricci asks me if I want tea? Being the Brit that I am, I am flabbergasted when he leaves the room only to pop his head in offering me three types to choose from! He then reenters carry a tray, avec accoutrements and I realize Romeo is very much alive and in the room!
Curious to know what he wants women to feel when they wear Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance, Ricci elaborates ‘I want women to feel the character when they wear my scents. I want them to feel – well, suddenly they feel superior, in control of their game, ultra feminine, maybe coy’. It is his desire to enlighten the energy and beautify women. Reveal her hidden talents if you will.
With our interview coming to a close, Ricci asks me to go back with him into the retail store, Holt Renfrew for a last minute visit and sniff of competitor’s blends. He is quick to point out his good friend, Erwin Creed’s family line and other new launches. He has made a promise the day before, to visit a store employee before he leaves. He tells me ‘one has to be a man of his word - if not, you have no integrity and that is the worst kind of person’. We traverse the store for a good 30 minutes looking for a woman whose name he cannot recollect and he appears disappointed not to find her. He is now en route to the Montreal store to woo the journalists, sales employees and customers there and the ladies have no idea what is to come. Afterwards, one beauty editor confides it took her a good 48 hours to come down to earth after meeting him…
A man of superior integrity and absolute creativity to be sure.
His weaponry, positively scentillating.
Both Juliette Has A Gun fragrances are €85,00 / €60,00 in all European coutries and in North America: $110.00 / $80.00
Marian Bendeth is a Global Fragrance Expert based out of Toronto, Canada. SixthSen@aol.com. Marian has won three fragrance industry editorial awards for her writing.
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