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Interview with Marian Bendeth
by Grant Osborne, 01 November 2000
As a Fragrance Specialist, Marian has many roles on both sides of the fragrance counter. As well as conducting personalized fragrance consultations with over 700 prestige fragrances, she is also featured in major department stores, guest lectures, training seminars and deal with the media on a regular basis. Marian believes this is the first concept of its kind in the world. Here is the Basenotes interview.
Basenotes: How did you get your interest in the perfume industry?
Marian: I have been a collector of blends since the age of 3 when my grandmother gave me a bottle of 4711. By the age of 4 and a half, I made my first purchase with "comic book and sweets money" by purchasing a miniature of L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci. Since then, I have been a connoisseur and a collector of rare blends, which I still use today. I started to research every facet of fragrance in earnest about twenty-eight years ago and still feel I have a long way to go.
How did you first get involved in the industry?
I officially got involved in the fragrance industry in 1984 as a promotional assistant for many companies. Having researched fragrance for many years prior, I felt I had found my calling.
After working in the Advertising; Music and Public Relations industries, I started my company Sixth Scents in 1989, after an interesting case of a public relations employee who lost a multi-million dollar account with two gentlemen by wearing the wrong fragrance in her presentation. She informed me that "men love it when I wear this scent" and when I asked when that was? she replied "on a date of course". I immediately questioned the possibility of different fragrances for different occasions from a psychological vantage point. I consulted with her on an appropriate corporate fragrance strictly for the boardroom and my view of fragrance changed dramatically from thereon in.
I also noticed total confusion for the customer at counter level. I found the majority of sales were based on all the wrong factors; ie. a new fragrance; something someone else was wearing; look of a pretty bottle or the heavy-handed opinion of a salesperson who had a quota to fill. The notion of just one signature fragrance for me had become so passé and monotonous to those who had to live around the same scent in the workplace or at home. I found certain personality types were attracted to certain scents and fragrance families that represented their inner personalities regardless of age; cultural, religious, economic or social backgrounds. The whole artistry of testing and wearing a fragrance as an art form seemed to be lost on the masses and it became my mission to educate and inspire the consumer and their relationship to fragrance.
What made you decide to become a 'fragrance profiler'?
Fragrance profiling came about as a complete accident. After doing personalized fragrance consultations for so many years, I noticed a thread of psychological links between certain individuals and personality types. Canada is a wonderful resource for international tastes as most of the population is made up of first , second and third generation immigrants from all over the world . Coupled with our French-speaking market I concluded that Canada is really the meat in the fragrant sandwich between the U.S/South American. and European/Asian/ Middle Eastern tastes. The instillation of cultural odours from their youth, pro and con allowed me to view their complete olfactory world and it's manifestation to their primal olfactory view of odours and fragrances. As a result, I am able to give a complete personality profile for a fragrance based on thousands of past consultations with a specific fragrance or family as well as new blends, which has allowed me to assist in guiding the consumer in their selections.
Profiling is available to the fragrance industry to view who their /established consumer/potential is or will be on a global scale. I also work with in-progress and finished lab samples in evaluations.
What are the common mistakes made by men, with fragrances?
Sadly, there are many incorrect selection and testing procedures at the counter. My main concern is that both men and women still do not understand the distinct difference between After Shave Lotions/Balms and Eau de Toilettes. I like to say one is a belt,the other a tie, meaning one is more functional and the other is esthetically pleasing.
Men have a habit of spraying their palms with Eau de Toilettes, then rubbing their hands together and placing them on their face and necks. What has just happened, is that by spraying into the palms (where the glands are situated) can actually throw the scent off by the natural acidic/alkaline oils). Then, by rubbing, which actually bruises all the oils which can be anywhere from 50-600 which has been painstakingly blended to form a beginning, middle and end - now have been virtually crushed through friction and heat.
This application of more intense oils on the neck and face area can cause infection which is why a man should only use an After Shave/Lotion/Gel on the neck and face. Eau de Colognes, Eau de Toilettes, and Eau de Parfums for men should be applied from the collarbone down, in particular in a T-shape and inside the arms.
The longevity of an After Shave should only be 15 minutes to half an hour whilst an Eau de Toilette should last anywhere from 2 hours and if you are lucky - the remainder of the day. A red face or neck is not appealing and can be avoided through proper application.
Remember that the blotter which is used for testing is the hanger that holds the suit - it doesn't mean it will be a perfect fit if you like the scent without trying it on! Not unlike a suit, it must "fit" properly on the skin and your body chemistry must bring out the best in the blend regardless of the name, inception; popularity or fabulous marketing strategy. Your nose may say one thing and the body something else entirely!
The first smell to come out of the bottle is the alcohol content - which can be high along with the top notes - usually a citrus note such as lime, lemon, bergamot which is going straight up your nose and can cause sneezing, allergies and headaches. Allow the fragrance to dry by blowing directly on the wrist for a few seconds.
How should a someone apply a cologne/EDT? What pitfalls should be avoided?
The correct way to testing a fragrance is to hold the atomizer head at least 4-5 inches away from the inner wrist. Not on the back of the hand as the pulse points have an artery that is closest to the upper epidermis and through warmth and moisture, actually help to diffuse the fragrance. Do not spray on the back of your hands. Do you find this area moist after a workout? Of course not. Spray the inside of the arm and wrists with one spray - don't machine gun! we have to share your space!
Shut your eyes when testing, feel the fragrance - really smell it over a one-hour period. Is it still there two hours from initial application? When would you wear your scent? to the office? after a game of golf? to a black-tie event? What does your scent say about you? These questions must be considered before actually dressing in the morning or changing for an event. Too many men and women wear evening scents (heavy and full-bodied) to work and the results can be obnoxious.
Never, under any conditions, spray your clothing, ties; gloves, Jewellery, hair or outer-garments.. The scent can turn and coupled with dry cleaning fluids combined with alcohol can permanently stain your favourite items.
Never rub your wrists together after applying an Eau de Toilette
What tips could you give on choosing a fragrance?
If you are testing a new fragrance, always bring a list of past fragrances you have loved and dislike with you. This enables the sales person to ascertain which fragrance families you are drawn to. Always have a wardrobe of fragrances to chose from as you would a fashion wardrobe. This will be your ultimate fashion and personality accessory! Always change your fragrances every two days. Try not to test one fragrance over another or mix one After Shave with another Eau de Toilette. This reminds me of a cacophony of big brass band marching up our noses! The most important factor before actually purchasing a fragrance is to make sure you absolutely love it. For me, to say a fragrance is "nice" is the kiss of death. It should haunt you, and literally force you to smell your wrists repeatedly. In fact, it should have Your Name on it!
Which male fragrances do you think have been the most important for the men's fragrance industry as a whole? Why?
There have been many revolutionary fragrances for men which I base on a number of factors. Some have been proven to be classics for longevity on the shelves; others as a new fragrance family and others, based on blend alone. For me, scents such as Eau Sauvageby Christian Dior; Kenzo Pour Homme by Kenzo; Captain by Molyneaux; Dunhill Edition by Dunhill; Ungaro III by Emmanual Ungaro; Azzaro by Loris Azzaro and Kouros Eau Fraicheurby Yves Saint Laurent are amongst many that I truly admire due to their distinct characteristics.
The men's market has picked up considerably in blends and sales over the past three years. I have not met too many women who dislike fragrance on men but the amount applied may make or break a first impression.
What are your thoughts on the future of the industry?
The future of fragrance sponsorship seems to be sprouting in many new directions. Once, a design-house or celebrity based commodity; the new names of athletes; porcelain/glass manufacturers and jewellers seem to have been making major dents in the promotion of fragrance. It would certainly not surprise me to see and smell a fragrance product with a "Nasdaq" "Microsoft" even "Harry Potter for boys" logo.
Although I do find this very concept disconcerting. As consumers we regularly equate one art form with another which should ultimately attract the corporate guy; jock, stud; academic; affluent or everyday kind of man who can identify with an advertisement or scent. I fear going outside the circle of artistic sponsorship may dissipate or even tarnish the art of perfumery for the sake of the almighty dollar / pound etc which will ultimately be reflected at the cash tills by years-end.
Perfumers are also getting younger as is our fragrance demographic. Young people don't want to smell like their father / grandfather, but the majority demographic is still the baby-boomer who shouldn't be prematurely cast aside just yet.
[On natural ingredients being sacrificed in some fragrances]
Although some synthetics cannot replace the narcotic headiness of pure jasmine; or the rustic peppery feel of pure Mysore sandalwood , it can enhance the perfumer's palette with a multitude of oils (which, in some cases, can be more expensive than some essentials!) to enrich and improve the body of work. In fact, perfumer's are now able to either recreate or invent new and inventive fragrances, never known to the human nose! Synthetics can also provide stability in the long-term storage of scent.
If you could bring back one discontinued fragrance, which would it be and why?
As a collector, this has to be the hardest question ever posed to me. If forced to chose just one for men and women, I would love to smell the original "Crêpe de Chine" by Milot and "Green Water" by Jacques Fath (original version).
Both fragrances have a classic appeal and would not be dated in the 21st century. For me, they represent a classical approach to perfumery without pretense or aggression. In some ways, new fragrances can be somewhat retro - harkening back to a refined era where masculinity and feminity traits were pronounced, but not overt.
Any books you could recommend for anyone interested in learning more about fragrances?
I highly recommend reading any of the books written by fragrance author, Michael Edwards, in particular - "Perfume Legends"; any fragrance books by author Nigel Groom, Blackie Academic; "Fabulous Fragrances" by Jan Moran and "The Book of Perfume" by Elisabeth Barillé and Catherine LaRoze, Miniature enthusiasts should try: "A Collector's Handbook of Miniature Perfume Bottles, Minis Mates an More" by Jeri Ringblum, I believe Amazon.com have most of these titles.
Marian cannot do online fragrance consultations - But for more information fragrance companies, department stores or the media can email:
Marian Bendeth, Fragrance Specialist
Sixth Scents email: SixthSen @ aol.com
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