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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 29th September 2017, 10:47 PM
    glitteralex

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Superb article! Thank you so much for reporting on this.
  • 20th September 2017, 12:43 PM
    grayspoole

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Hi all-

    I loved reading Nick Gilbert’s article, with its detailed analysis of the vintage L’Origan formula. I am not a chemist, but as an ardent fan of vintage perfumes, my nose confirms again and again that vintage compositions are just completely different from today’s perfumes--in ingredients, structure, performance, and intended effects. Once you become used to vintages, modern perfumes, including those that are meant to evoke the vintage style, just smell...different. In the end, it is a matter of taste whether you prefer one style of perfumery to another, whether or not you want to be an perfume antiquarian or a fan of contemporary “odeurs” (as the old ads used to say). There are so many beautiful perfumes available to enjoy: it’s all good.


    That said, I do think it is relatively easy to obtain some vintage L’Origan to smell, outside of the admirable recreations made for the Somerset House exhibition and Osmatheque. Do not despair, Bonnette, Starblind! (Meanwhile, my trips to smell recreated perfumes in London or Paris will have to wait until the college tuition bills stop arriving at my house.) Coty perfumes were marketed so assiduously and so widely, at so many price points, that there are many small bottles of vintage parfum in circulation. Pristine large, boxed vintage flacons are pricey, but small bottles...that originally came in a gift set or were tucked into a Christmas ornament, can be found at fair prices. I would recommend a tiny but truly vintage parfum over a bigger and less vintage PDT or EDT. (I know the “crown” topped, Pfizer-era vintage Coty PDT’s are frequently praised, but I find them a bit “meh” myself.) All of the vintage Coty parfums that I have...Emeraude, L'Aimant, L’Origan, Paris..are amazing.
  • 20th September 2017, 03:21 AM
    Starblind

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    Oh, Sam. This practically brings tears to my eyes.
    MIne too. I am SUCH a sap for vintage fragrances and beauty that can never be re-experienced. *sigh*
  • 19th September 2017, 08:59 PM
    Bonnette

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Oh, Sam. This practically brings tears to my eyes.
  • 19th September 2017, 05:18 PM
    saminlondon

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    I did smell several of the re-created vintages before they started charging for it (b**tards). All were new to me, with the exception of Après l'Ondée: already heartbreakingly beautiful, but in the 'new vintage' version it actually brought tears to my eyes. The other real standout was Bouquet de Faunes, which I remember as being a gorgeously soft floral suede. It was a strangely melancholic experience on the whole, knowing that these glories can never be available to wear :(

    (Sorry, didn't mean to derail the thread.)
  • 19th September 2017, 03:19 PM
    Bonnette

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    As for gutsiness, most aficionados know already that the formulas have strayed...
    Certainly, but I'd like to know in which ways, and to what degree. I doubt this would be possible in an absolute sense, but I'd appreciate the perspective that such an exercise might lend.
  • 19th September 2017, 02:45 PM
    cacio

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    The Guerlain museum is so difficult to visit - I tried a couple of times but they don't do many sniffings. My bet is that Guerlain gave the formulas to the Osmotheque, so the reconstructions are probably very similar.

    As for gutsiness, most aficionados know already that the formulas have strayed...

    Regarding exhibitions and reconstructions, a fashion exhibit at the Met in NYC gave you a mouilette of Parfums de Rosine Nuit de Chine.

    cacio
  • 19th September 2017, 08:28 AM
    Bonnette

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    From the website: "Due to the safety norms, the re-created perfumes cannot be purchased..." Now, that's just cruel! Oh, how I'd love to smell and sample, and I'm glad Guerlain is allowing that.

    For those of you who have access to both the Osmotheque and Guerlain's museum, I'd love to hear at some point how those early versions smell in each place. It was pretty gutsy of Guerlain and Wasser to take this project on, since now it will theoretically be possible to see how far the current reformulations have strayed...unless (cynic that I am), the re-created formulae are cast in the likeness of modern blends.
  • 19th September 2017, 06:49 AM
    saminlondon

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by Gblue View Post
    Truly, it's a pleasure. I wish there were more historic recreations to investigate this way!
    http://www.monsieurguerlain.com/2015/09/vintages.html
  • 18th September 2017, 10:01 PM
    pluran

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by Gblue View Post
    Truly, it's a pleasure. I wish there were more historic recreations to investigate this way!
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/438...g-all-stations
  • 18th September 2017, 09:48 PM
    Gblue

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by epapsiou View Post
    Thanks for this Nick. Great article and history lesson.
    Truly, it's a pleasure. I wish there were more historic recreations to investigate this way!
  • 18th September 2017, 09:47 PM
    Gblue

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Very interesting and informative.
    Glad you enjoyed it, hednic!
  • 18th September 2017, 09:47 PM
    Gblue

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    An interesting story, thanks for researching and telling it.
    Shame the exhibition was rubbish.
    I think the exhibition is best seen through the eyes of someone new to perfume. At least it has opened a dialogue, and hopefully is the start of something more!
  • 18th September 2017, 09:46 PM
    Gblue

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Wonderful article, as usual.

    When I read reinterpretation, I was fearing something like Fougere Royale, but then it seems that this was a genuine attempt at recreating a lost original. I have smelled the Osmotheque one, and it's wonderful. This is what defined makeup smell for decades in the US (Coty Airspun is actually still available for little at Walmart, and while it doesn't smell like the perfume, the whiff it gives reminds one distantly of it).

    Now, if only Coty bothered to bring this reinterpretation to market...

    cacio
    It's a very well meaning recreation. As Inrig says, not flawless - it's going to be impossible to create an exact replica of something that is entirely lost to time. It might be plausible in the US but IFRA regs mean it's probably a no go, so far.
  • 18th September 2017, 09:44 PM
    Gblue

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    Boy, would I love to get my hands on that L'Origan recreation. What a great exhibition and article.
    Thank you! Honestly, the way it's displayed in the exhibition doesn't do it justice. It's not IFRA compliant in its current state, but I sneaked a little onto skin. It's a wonder.
  • 18th September 2017, 09:43 PM
    Gblue

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Quote Originally Posted by Oviatt View Post
    Fascinating article. I would love to smell this.
    Thanks! Coty have offered me a little to show at talks. I am taking them up on it!
  • 18th September 2017, 08:16 PM
    epapsiou

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Thanks for this Nick. Great article and history lesson.
  • 18th September 2017, 08:01 PM
    hednic

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Very interesting and informative.
  • 18th September 2017, 05:34 PM
    gandhajala

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    An interesting story, thanks for researching and telling it.
    Shame the exhibition was rubbish.
  • 18th September 2017, 03:34 PM
    cacio

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Wonderful article, as usual.

    When I read reinterpretation, I was fearing something like Fougere Royale, but then it seems that this was a genuine attempt at recreating a lost original. I have smelled the Osmotheque one, and it's wonderful. This is what defined makeup smell for decades in the US (Coty Airspun is actually still available for little at Walmart, and while it doesn't smell like the perfume, the whiff it gives reminds one distantly of it).

    Now, if only Coty bothered to bring this reinterpretation to market...

    cacio
  • 18th September 2017, 03:13 PM
    Bonnette

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Boy, would I love to get my hands on that L'Origan recreation. What a great exhibition and article.
  • 18th September 2017, 02:55 PM
    Oviatt

    Re: Recreating L'Origan

    Fascinating article. I would love to smell this.
  • 18th September 2017, 02:01 PM
    Basenotes Robot

    Recreating L'Origan

    Somerset House's Perfume exhibition featured a recreation of Coty's L'Origan. Nick Gilbert tracks the story of the classic scents reconstruction.

    Read the rest of the article here

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