Fantastic Mister Fox! : Mark Buxton creates À Rebours - new fragrance from 'Friendly Fur' | Esxence News

by Lila Das Gupta, 30th March, 2012

À Rebours is a new perfume by the Friendly Fur company has been launched today at Esxence in Milan.

The company specialises in supplying ‘ethical’ fox fur for use in clothing. The idea to commission a fragrance came from Nikolas Gleber, a young Berlin based consultant who specialises in advising companies on lifestyle and sustainability matters.

“Friendly Fur uses animals that are not killed for fashion” he explains. The foxes have been killed as a result of forest management, either due to epidemics or ground breeder management. These pelts are normally thrown away.” Gleber estimates that about 60,000 pelts a year are potentially available. “I heard about this, so I decided to create a network to use these resources”, he says.

He decided to commission a perfume after a newspaper described him as ‘the star of green glamour’. Gleber says it’s important to remember that it is not a contradiction to be green, but also stylish.

“I’m not in the perfume scene, but I thought to myself, how does it smell this Green Glamour? ” says Gleber, “then a friend introduced me to a girl from Paris, and she turned out to work for Symrise. She said ‘Why don’t you give my friend Mark a call?’

The Mark in question turned out to be perfumer Mark Buxton, though Gleber had no idea who he was or his stature in the perfume world.

“I called Mark and he said, ‘sure’ I’ll do it. I knew what I wanted the flacon to look like, so I designed it and took it to him. I told Mark ‘it has to smell of neon green and dark forest,’ and I told him about my personal favourite ingredients like roses, violets and oak tree. He sent me the first hit and that was it. It was exactly the right thing, we didn’t need to change it at all. It starts off green then it goes to civet and castoreum.”

Gleber studied Arts and Marketing at University. “I called the perfume À Rebours, because in French it means going against the grain - even if it’s tough and the harder way and hurts a little, sometimes art has to hurt a little. À Rebours is also the name of a very beautiful novel written by Joris-Karl Huysmans about an artist in 1884, he’s a little bit crazy too, striving for perfectionism. A friend gave it to me and said I reminded him of that character – I hope I’m not as crazy!”

À Rebours EDP costs €180 for 20ml, and the refill, 2x20ml bottles cost €80 Euros. Enquiries about availability can be made at the Friendly Fur website.

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    • GelbeDomino | 30th March 2012 05:28

      This "friendly fur" thing is so NOT my cup of tea.

      The fragrance sounds like something I might enjoy, though.

    • furrypine | 30th March 2012 06:31

      Hire Cousin It for the ad campaign!

      I have a fragrance with fur on the cap, and it looks kinda stylish, but a whole bottle dressed in fur just looks weird.

    • perfumefreak5 | 30th March 2012 11:27

      Sounds a tad like "friendly fire".... using fur -- unless you live on the north/south pole -- is just plain wrong, no matter how you "harvest" the pelts. No one will be able tell if your foxy coat is made by this company, or the other kind, and it will just promote the wearing of fur. If you are interested in "fur scents" just try and find vintage Weil (Zibeline etc).. sorry for the rant.

    • Fleurine | 30th March 2012 15:00

      Fur for the sake of vanity makes me ill.

    • Pour_Monsieur | 30th March 2012 19:25

      Using the word ethical doesnt really sugar coat the fact its fur now does it LOL !! What a cheap gimmick , sadly the fragrance could be the best thing ever but it still looks like its coming out of a foxes arse ....

    • MonkeyBars | 1st April 2012 07:11

      Green plus civet, castoreum, musk AND ambergris?! Sign me up!