UK based independent perfume house Pell Wall perfumes have recently launched five new fragrances. 1953, Orange Spice, Green Carnation, Sticky Leather Sky – part of the Penning Perfumes project, and extremely limited edition fragrance, Deco.
1953 was created in the middle of last year and is named after the year of the coronation of Her Majesty The Queen. Chris Bartlett, perfumer and founder of Pell Wall says that “among many special things involved in the ascension to the throne of a British monarch perhaps the most special is the anointing - according to Wikipedia British Monarchs are the only ones still anointed as part of the ceremony and it is done with a specially made Coronation Oil - the ingredients for which have been similar since the 12th Century and include ambergris, civet, rose, jasmine, orange flower, cinnamon, musk and benzoin.”
1953 includes all those ingredients (though for ethical reasons Bartlett has used synthetic substitutes for civet and musk)
A 1953 pour Homme is in the works, which will be launched later in the Spring.
Orange Spice and Green Carnation were created late last year. Orange Spice is described as a bright, clean, long-lasting fragrance suited to both men and women. It opens with orange and other citrus notes, with a heart which includes orange flower, and base featuring ambergris, frankincense, sandalwood, vetiver and castoreum. Green Carnation is described by Bartlett as an “easy-to-wear fragrance ... designed to capture the concept of the carnation more than imitate the scent but it is immediately recognisable and unusually for a masculine fragrance is presented in Eau de Parfum strength so it projects and lasts very well.” Notes include clove, green mandarin, cut grass, carnation, nutmeg, cut-flowers, galbanum, oakmoss, frankincense, white musk and ambergris.
Sticky Leather Sky was developed as part of The Penning Perfumes project where poets write poems based on perfumes, and perfumers make perfumes based on poems.
The poem on which the perfume is based is called “Listening to Charles Ives” by Claire Trévien (which can be read here) and the fragrance takes its name from a central line of the poem, which describes a couple at the concert, who are discovering how different they are. Bartlett took this idea to the perfume, and made a fragrance where “The top notes and the leather base are a little uncomfortable with each other”
Bartlett says “Sticky Leather Sky opens with light, bright, familiar notes of bergamot that shade into fresh clean air heavy with damp.
There is a slightly metallic edge and a light woody background representing the orchestra while jasmine and orris recall the opulence of the Paris Opera.
The strong leather accord comes into play quickly and lasts and lasts providing a dominant, persistent theme.”
Lastly Bartlett is starting an irregular series of limited editions starting with Deco. Each of the scents will be sold in an interesting bottle – “perhaps an antique or collectable bottle from years gone by, perhaps a beautiful art glass container originally sold empty but always something a bit special.”
Deco will be available to just one or two lucky buyers, at Big Red's House art gallery in Whitchurch Shropshire.
Notes include bergamot, aldehydic tones and the spicy-floral scent from the rare and precious oil called Plai: Zingiber cassumunar a member of the ginger family from Thailand where it is widely used as a therapeutic oil. “In addition to the characteristic spiciness of ginger it has a lemon-floral character that brings something quite special to this complex fragrance, which also features notes of narcissus, rose, carnation and orange flower on a base composed with sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla and musk.”
1953 is available in a crystal bottle for £79, Green Carnation starts from £24 for 30ml, Orange Spice starts from £40 for 30ml and Sticky Leather Sky is currently only in available in a textured 11ml bottle for £20, though larger sizes may be offered in the future.