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michailG's brief

08th January, 2000

… a dry citrus fragrance

1) This is a fragrance that I conjured up in my mind. I have been looking for it for years and I still haven’t come across it. It is a fragrance consisting of various notes of citrus trees and fruits, and especially some rare ones that make this fragrance bewildering and profound.

Imagine lemons, limes, kumquats, bergamots, quinces, oranges and exotic hesperides such as Citrus Kulci, Citrus Bergamia, Citrus Mitis, Calamondin Orange, Limequat Eustis, and other. The concoction has a crisp, airy bitter citrus opening that slowly warms like a spring night in Tangier and ends with a long lasting subtle feel good powdery, bitter-sweet sensual aura.

2) This is a citrus fragrance with rare citrus notes used. Other notes are used that create the feeling of hesperides but are non citric themselves. The point is not to make a bitter Eau d’ Hadrien, a citrus rich Grey Vetiver, or a dry Fleurs de Citronnier. Although these are great and inspiring perfumes, my fragrance captures a more complex but genius in its simplicity and naturalness interpretation of a citrus fragrance. Please, no metallic Standard Artek here! No blasé anti-perfumery or watered down over-perfumery. This is a fragrance for modern people who may have a tenderness towards olfactory rich and well blended compositions, but still they don’t desire to smell stuffy, money, or any eau de … This is a perfume bordering on edginess and congeniality, and without being the Oscar Wilde (eccentric and loud for the sake of it) of perfumes, this is a strong composition of true dry citrus with other unexpected riches to enhance and make it last.

3) This is a fragrance I have been weaving in my head as I am trying to, but can’t, discover it. I have found instances of it in the perfumes I mention above and others that I have smelled many years ago. However, there has always being a point of disappointment when the sharp, crisp citrus would turn to sweet concoctions of vanilla, powdery florals, or coniferous woods.

4) My fragrance is dry, bitter, and airy developing to warm but not sweet, and finally bitter-sweet & powdery. It is definitely juicy with a hint of dust and tanginess at the end.

5) Fabric-texture: It is all the way the finest Egyptian cotton weaved in a crisp fabric that wrinkly or not is superb to feel on the skin… Alternatively it could be the finest alpaca wool fabric, soft, sensual and light worn directly on naked skin.

6) Colour: White and many and different pastels.

7) Sound to compare: The sound of the wind blowing through the leaves of a citrus tree in a warm early evening in the spring.

8) This is a profound fragrance composed to be appreciated by anyone who can appreciate it, regardless of gender or age. I imagine that my fragrance plays in the field where others don’t; the field of human pure sensuality. Pure like authentic, and unembellished, and sensuality as in touch with emotions, not only sex.

9) High end: Eau d’ Hadrien, Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet, Fleurs de Citronniere, Miller Harris’ Citron Citron, Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver, Aqua di Parma Colonia, Jo Malone Lime. Low end: Monsieur Balmain, Eau de Rochas, Eau de Paco Rabanne. None of them fulfils the task this fragrance is set to fulfil.

10) This is not a traditional fragrance; it is just a fragrance that there should always have existed. As such, it is not trendy… it is an authority, a must-have for those who want to wrap themselves in it. In the filmic production I would use the sexiest, masculine, and deep voice to narrate the fragrance story. Men and women should be present in the promotional material. No special terminology should be used, just an authoritative, hypnotising voice to deliver the simple message of fulfilment.

11) A composition I would relate to my fragrance would be with a lot of white and yellow, cheerful but not silly, with something profound about it. I would also be playful with the juiciness of citrus fruits. There is a festive painting by Sorolla from 1916, called Valencia. Las grupas. This art work is full of bright colours, oranges and an immense joy. Then a picture I like a lot is one I have taken a few years back in my hometown at a very special restaurant run by a florist/restauranter who loves to create unexpected compositions using flowers, fruits, spices and so on.

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