New niche fragrance line: Daniel Vaudd

by Walker Minton, 18th January, 2010

A new niche fragrance line has emerged from North London. Following a chance meeting with Roja Dove in Harrods and subsequent experience in the industry, Daniel Vaudd has launched his own line of perfumes, bath and body products.

The products are described as creative, exclusive and exotic; the ultimate statement of style, enhancing your essence. Daniel Vaudd’s wish is to create an exotic aura with a unique intensity for its recipient to heighten each individual’s encounter and “create a world where the awakening of sexual strength becomes the grail”.

There are three fragrances, all chypres. They are made in the UK with over 80% organic ingredients. Eaux de Perfume in strength, they are:

  • Mens Rea – The GuiltyMind

  • Actus Reas The Guilty Act

  • Amplexus – Loving Embrace

The bathing and body products launch in February at £18, the Perfumes in March at £47.50 for 50ml. More information at

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    • the_good_life | 18th January 2010 16:13

      Geez, everybody's a perfumer these days. Someone should have proofread his introductory text, though, as it is full of errors. Makes an unprofessional impression. As does not knowing there is no accent aigu in the word "chypre." Also, the idea of shower gel providing basenotes, cream the heart and fragrance the top is, well...challenging, as is releasing three chypres, pardon, chyprés for starters. Well, who knows, the perfumes may be divine, but then we all know marketing is far more important than quality in terms of economic success...

    • Giustino | 18th January 2010 16:38

      Annoying slow flash website.. But I'm willing to sample when they're available.

    • danielvaudd | 18th January 2010 18:12

      To create works of art in scent requires dedication and years of training. Each creation has taken over a year to complete. Unlike conventional perfumers, after studying organic chemistry, I read Cosmetic Science to better understand the topical effects of ethereal oils on skin. On completion, I then trained in perfumery.

      Each product is complete within itself. Used in combination, you can then achieve a signature that is uniquely you. This concept came after creating a luxurious scent for a client. One evening at dinner, I noticed soapy and synthetic undertones to her aroma (to the perfume I had created). We discovered that her shampoo, conditioner and body cream had a significant cumulative effect. This effect is not easily noticeable in commercial fragrances because of the exceptional levels of synthetic ingredients used.

      My creations are crafted with high levels of natural, rare and exotic oils, absolutes and resinoids. Using commercial/highly synthetic body products would detract from the complexities and beauty of the perfume structure.

      The Chypre is simply the most refined and elegant style of perfume. It hides nothing and creates no fantasy. It is simply an extension of you, your desires and your intentions. It is for the individual who doesn’t need to transform; instead they transcend.

      Yours faithfully,

      Daniel Vaudd.

    • hilaryjane | 19th January 2010 14:02

      "Daniel Vaudd’s wish is to create an exotic aura with a unique intensity for its recipient to heighten each individual’s encounter" appalling English and utterly meaningless.

      “create a world where the awakening of sexual strength becomes the grail"

      We are all to used to mainline fragrance firms trying to use sex to sell fragrance but I would have thought that a young new perfumer would have wanted to be more original. This is just cringe-worthy.

      Also, that world sounds like a really really bad idea.

    • SculptureOfSoul | 20th January 2010 07:25

      80% organic ingredients says nothing. You could make a 100% synthetic fragrance at 20% dilution, and use organic alcohol as your base, and you'd still have "80% organic ingredients."

      Daniel, is the scent itself - the essential oils and aroma chemicals and anything excluding the alcohol - 80% organic, or does that 80% organic number figure in the alcohol?



    • Sorcery of Scent | 20th January 2010 08:59

      Goodness, it is not in the Basenotes spirit to be this cynical or critical of a new release that no-one has actually even tried yet! Particularly from an artisan/non designer house.

      Daniel, thank you for registering and commenting, and best of luck with your venture... these look rather interesting!

    • Aerandir4 | 20th January 2010 09:13

      I am intrigued to try this new line of perfumes!

    • Primrose | 21st January 2010 14:07

      the_good_life, this is a good observation. I am always interested in new releases and try to suspend judging the juice until the nose makes a decision (it is fragrance after all), but the comment about the errors in the advertising points to a terrible marketing faux pas. This always comes off as an amateurish operation when the text/advertising script is poorly written and poorly punctuated. This cannot be excused when launching a new, elegant line of scent.

      BTW, as for the hyperbole, perfume is almost always about marketing (just look at its history in the last 130 years or so), so the hyperbole can be forgiven...and even enjoyed.

    • Doc Elly | 21st January 2010 17:16

      Geez, everybody's a critic these days, too.

      Why not suspend judgment until you smell the products? Monsieur Vaudd is a perfumer, not an English composition major or linguist. Hyperbole seems to be a key part of perfume marketing, so we have to live with it. Proofreading before publishing is probably a good idea, but it's likely that over 90% of consumers won't know or care that the prose makes no sense.

    • the_good_life | 21st January 2010 20:05

      Well, if you read my comment closely, I did not judge the perfumes at all. I was merely making the point that the discrepancy between overwrought prose and grammatical/orthographic ineptitude makes for a rather comic, or, if you prefer, pathetic, effect. This introductory page is like a resumé and everybody knows that an error-ridden resumé connotes sloppiness not just in writing, but in that person's general attitude towards their work. That's why a sloppy application will always end up in the trash. And the thing about body wash as basenote etc. seemed like perfume-technical nonsense to me, especially considering these are supposedly highly natural perfumes. I won't even mention the smarmy reference to Roja Dove, the world's only "professeur de parfums" (cough cough).

    • Primrose | 21st January 2010 21:56

      Again, the_good_life, I agree with you. That is called, in real estate, "curb appeal." You are not judging the scent but the advertising. It is simply common procedure to hire a person (a professional linguist) fluent in a language when marketing in a country in which that tongue is spoken. This includes proofreading, checking punctuation and sorting out idioms, etc. Simple business thinking. Otherwise the effect is comical--or worse. Many of use can relate to well-intentioned attempts at translation in manuals for electronic devices...written by a foreigner! (I worked in an industry like this and the company *always* hired native translators before the manuals went to production or the Web--sometimes hiring people from that particular country.) Just go to the Caron and Chanel sites and see the various languages.

      Perfume is not cheap and buyers are willing to spend money; more often than not, the connoisseurs are paying attention to presentation and the literature.

      Of course, it is absurd to assume we judge scent before even sampling the scent...and I am sure we will have thoughtful reviews when the scents are sampled by a BN member.

    • Sugandaraja | 22nd January 2010 05:49

      I'm not entirely sure what to expect of the fragrances themselves; I'll wait for the reviews, but I am intrigued by the combination of hyssop - one of my favorite underused notes - and aldehydes mentioned in the description of Actus Reas.

      I agree with Primrose that The_Good_Life's criticisms are helpful and constructive, especially as we may be dealing with someone who may not speak English as a first language. I'm reminded of a Crimean tourism website that promised "unspeakable scenery" ( I have a feeling they meant "breathtaking"... )

    • danielvaudd | 22nd January 2010 17:15

      Incidentally, English is my native tongue; please note the publisher of this article. However my diction of words can often be abstract and poetic as expressing scent in any language never does justice. This is why these all my creations are named in Latin; the rudiment etymology of most modern languages.

      I do actually appreciate all your comments - even those that are perhaps less constructive. It is great to know that you are all passionate about who and what enters this industry. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the juices as I know you will be critical and most exacting.

      Ps. Galamb, I do agree that Hyssop is a very much underused ingredient- it is difficult to work with. The effect of ketones in Hyssop Oil along with aldehydes make Actus Reus stunningly radiant at the top whilst on the dry down, it becomes intimate and subtly aphrodisic (for the syntax specialists, this is not a naturally occurring word). The structure, but not the ingredients used, of Actus Reus was inspired by Guerlain's Jicky (1889). It has a big opaque top floating over a shockingly sexual secret – I still don’t understand how he got away with it. ☺

      Yours Faithfully,

      Daniel Vaudd.

    • Doc Elly | 22nd January 2010 17:40

      The Good Life, I'm usually the first one to criticize bad writing, but there's so much of it in perfume advertising copy that what's presented here is somewhere around the lower middle part of the bell-shaped curve. However, I will say that the urge to wax poetic is not an excuse for bad grammar and outrageous claims for a product. I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the graphic that goes with the blurb. I personally find the androgynous body image with a seemingly deformed hand unoriginal and unappealing. The pictures of the product are badly blurred, but the meaningless gray filaments that partly cover the left side of the image are in sharp focus. People will look at whatever is in focus. I would think that one would want the viewer to focus on the product.

    • Nukapai | 22nd January 2010 21:55

      I dunno. I have some sympathy for someone who is clearly very excited about his creations and can't wait to share them with the world (thereby perhaps making some unfortunate decisions and shortcuts on the way). :)

      Having said that, I am puzzled at the assertion that chypres are the only perfumes worth a dime!

      Anyway - whatever happens, we have a new interesting character on board - welcome to Basenotes!

    • Redneck Perfumisto | 23rd January 2010 01:51

      I liked the website, except for the slow intro reflected across the pond. Interesting concept, and whatever one thinks of the language, Daniel has clearly paid his dues in the industry.

      What I think are interesting are the combinatorial aspects. Leaving aside all possibilities involving less than one member of each layer, if you go up from there (up to and including all 9 products) you get 7*7*7 = 343 possible combinations (I think). And allowing down to a single product, I think it's 511 possibilities. And THAT has me intrigued at two levels. First - as a perfumer, Daniel - what sort of process allowed you you optimize this set? To make sure it would all work out? Anything you feel like you can say about that is welcome. And then - how do you approach sales? Do you find that people can sample the 9 fragrances, pick their best 1 out of 3 at each level, and get a combination that smells great to them? Did you optimize it around those combinations? Again, any insight would be appreciated.

      PS - Welcome echoed!

    • Nukapai | 23rd January 2010 10:59

      I thought the illustrations on his website were clever and beautiful! (Unfortunately something about the site made my browser crash so I couldn't read all of it :( ).

    • Bitter-orange | 27th January 2010 11:40

      Let the guy alone! You sound like a bunch of picky queens at a 50 year old's coming out party!! Hiss and snipe! I think this is a very brave venture and english/sminglish, language is always changing. I wish you would all eat, shoot and leave daniel be.

    • illyria | 2nd February 2010 12:07

      Hello and welcome, Daniel.

      Well, leaving aside the wording (I mostly ignore that stuff anyway, I prefer to make my own mind up by sniffing), your products do look interesting. I hope to try them some time.

      So, it says 'complimentary samples are available from 26th February'. Does that mean we get samples free with a purchase, or that they can be requested before purchasing?

    • jarroditshallbe | 11th February 2010 07:01

      Hey, I am looking forward to them. He actually got on and spoke about his products. At least he is listening to the voice of the consumer at this specific of a level! Give it to the dude for that, at least.

    • jimmyfresno | 31st October 2010 23:39

      As jaded as it might seem, I have to agree with the_good_life. Was English incomplete without the word "aphrodisic" added to it? Does aphrodisiac not suffice? Perfumers now pore over their backstories like politicians, looking for the most indescriptive vague terms to encompass non-realities. "Rare musk" is supposed to evoke deer musk. "Precious woods" are supposed to lead us to conclusions other than Firmenich aromachemical No. 522.

      When I go to a museum, I want to have the paintings speak for themselves. An artist on the stump just screams of desperation.