Diptyque Launch New Vanilla Scent: Eau Duelle

by Walker Minton, 17th June, 2010

To be interested in perfume, I believe you have to be at least a bit of a romantic. There is much to swallow: myths of travelling the world to collect rare ingredients, the fable of the great and good of the world whose long past spirits are invoked as wearers or commissioners of fragrances. I know these are at best partially true, probably apocryphal and mercilessly harnessed to work on making us buy. Nevertheless, working on the principal that deconstruction is always easier than building, if the story resonates and the perfume smells good, it will not deter me.

I could have taken a quicker route but I detoured up Bolsover Street, solely for the silly romantic reason that it made me think of a recently retired beast of a man whom I have always admired for his integrity. Deep in reminiscence about the passing of times, I approached my destination: now named “One Marylebone”, a neo-classical former church built in 1826 by John Soane to celebrate the defeat of Napoleon towered above the busy Marylebone Road. Today it was the site of a presentation by French niche company Diptyque of their new Eau de Toilette named Eau Duelle.

Inside was a long a table set out as an “olfactory journey”. A thirty foot array of peppercorns, vanilla pods, vetiver roots, resins and woods was laid out on dishes, stood in jars and strewn loose. Fabrice Pellegrin, the nose from Firmenich who composed the scent for Diptyque spoke through an interpreter about the scent. Diptyque fragrances, he said, are each about a journey; some are imaginary and some real. This perfume represents an imaginary journey. He began with the base notes and explained the concept –Eau Duelle is based on two contrasting vanilla notes, both extracted with different processes from Bourbon Vanilla. One is dark and animalic the other sweet and light. There is also a touch of labdanum, vetiver and Paradisone – a Firmenich captive molecule related to Hedione which gives a jasmine like effect and plenty of white musk. The contrast (the “duel”) is continued in the upper levels of the fragrance with fresh bright spice and darker smoky tea, cypriol and frankincense. There is grassy aspect too with an interesting twist of calamus and elemi and some other unusual woody notes. He said the idea was to make a delicate and interesting vanilla using plenty of natural extract, avoiding the vulgarity of many of the overwhelmingly strong and synthetic vanilla based fragrances.

It is a distinctive vanilla-dominant fragrance, suitable for men and women with green, grassy and woody elements, a spice angle and a little animalic twist (with no animal derived ingredients).

Eau Duelle will be available from September as 50ml EDT at RRP of £45 / €58, 100ml EDT RRP £65 / €78 and a solid perfume of 0.16oz at £28 / €30.

  • Share this

Advertisement — comments are below


    • The_Cologneist | 17th June 2010 22:24

      I love Tam Dao and I like Philisykos, so it'll be interesting to see Diptyque's take on a vanilla based fragrance. To me, they bring this awesome natural feeling and smell to the table, much like Herme's does, only with deeper and darker notes and fragrances. I don't know very many vanilla fragrances that aren't mostly synthetic smelling, so hopefully Diptyque will take a gamble with it. Of course I'll wait on some reviews from Basenoters before getting my hands on it.

    • Doctor Mod | 18th June 2010 00:30

      I love your beautiful "deconstruction" of this fragrance as well as your concept of "journey," in the sense of the journey within one's mind that a fragrance evokes as well as your description of your trip to One Marylebone.

      I confess I've not been a great fan of Diptyque fragrances, but this sounds as if it might just be the one to win me over.

    • Perfume_Addict | 18th June 2010 10:23

      The notes and the contrast appeal to me, but I'm wary of Diptyque and their eaux. I love L'eau de Tarocco, but citrus is made for eaux. Vanilla and labdanum, on the other hand, call for eau de parfum to me.

    • oakman | 19th June 2010 02:27

      I like the sound of it despite not being a great fan of vanilla ! This is the second launch this year for Diptyque with Vetyverio , so I hope the quality doesn't suffer.Somehow always put off a fragrance house which churns out a new scent every few months !