Sartorial - new men's fragrance from Penhaligon's

by Grant Osborne, 14th September, 2010

Summer 2009, when Penhaligon's were doing the press for the first round of the Anthology Collection, Emily Maben (Penhaligon's Head of Marketing) let Basenotes into a secret: She and master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour had just been sniffing round Savile Row to get inspiration for a future men's fragrance.

A few months later in December 2009, when we took the attendees of the Basenotes Xmas Lunch to Penhaligon's, Maben teased us again with this fragrance, though this time we all had the chance to try it for ourselves. Ten months on, and the fragrance is almost here. It is inspired by the scents of the workroom at Norton & Sons, Bespoke Tailors at No. 16 Savile Row, and its name is Sartorial.

According to Penhaligon's Sartorial is "a contemporary interpretation of a classic Fougère; the traditional notes of oakmoss, tonka bean and lavender have been exquisitely stitched together with woods, ozonic and metallic effects, leather, violet leaf, honey and spices to create the perfect illusion of a tailor’s workroom. The modern thread running through Sartorial is beeswax; echoing the blocks of wax each thread is run across before stitching. This sweet smudged note ties together the more traditional elements; the oiled flash of shears cutting cloth, the rub of fabric beneath fingers, tobacco tinted cabinetry, puffs of chalk in the air and old paper patterns vanilla with age."

Top notes include: Aldehydes, Ozonic Effect, Metallic Effect, Violet Leaf, Neroli, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Fresh Ginger; the heart contains Beeswax, Cyclamen, Linden Blossom, Lavender, Leather. Finally, the dry down features Gurgum Wood, Patchouli, Myrrh, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean, Oakmoss, White Musk, Honey Effect, Old Wood Effect, Vanilla, Amber.

Penhaligon’s Sartorial is available as 50ml and 100ml Eau de Toilette.

Sartorial will launch in the UK on 11th October 2010 and will be available in Penhaligon’s boutiques, concessions and online at www.penhaligons.com

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Comments

    • Aztecface | 14th September 2010 17:02

      "Ozonic Effect"? This sounds aquatic.

    • Primrose | 14th September 2010 19:16

      I like the *name* of this scent!

      A bespoke tailor's establishment in Savile Row, tailor's chalk and men cutting patterns and fabric, sitting cross-legged on large tables! French curves and measuring tapes. The smell of old wood panels and the look of coffered ceilings...

      I hope the scent lives up to its name!

      Thank you for the news, Grant.

    • Persolaise | 14th September 2010 19:40

      I know you can't judge till you've sniffed, but this one sounds wonderful on paper... and it's by M Duchaufour. Could be a winner!

    • Grant (article author) | 14th September 2010 19:48

      I've been waiting for this to launch for aaages. I've been wearing it a lot recently and have quite taken to it

    • scentsitivity | 15th September 2010 01:12

      I love the name and the concept as well.

      I get a touch anxious when notes are referred to as 'effects'.

      But it is certainly on my "must try" list!

    • 6of1 | 15th September 2010 23:54

      Aquatic could be scary, but I trust Penhaligon's to live up to the reputation of their house. Definitely a must-try.

    • Diamondflame | 16th September 2010 08:36

      I wonder how it compares to 'Sartoriale' by Pal Zileri.. But I love fougeres & the notes look like it's gonna be right up my alley. So I'm pushing this right to the top of my 'test list'. :2vrolijk_08:

    • orrisboy | 16th September 2010 21:55

      I have been lucky enough to sample this, it is extraordinary. It is the scented re-creation of a Saville Row cutting room. The ozonics are not aquatics but steam notes to represent the cloth being pressed. There are chalk and dust notes bedded through the lavender and okamoss. 'Old wood' effects , machine oil and metallic scissor effects with tints of old paper patterns in the weird vanillic drydown. The most beautiful note is the beeswax running through it, sweet, animalic and moreish. They use blocks of wax in traditional cutting rooms to coat the threads before stitching. This blends so well with the violet, geranuium and classic fougere notes. I found it a melancholy and muted scent, hauntingly grey, full of autumnal power, like wearing a bespoke suit home in the damp air of a dark city night, one's mind full of worries and the prospect perhaps of love and light at home.

    • StylinLA | 6th October 2010 19:20

      I'm anxiously awaiting a better sampling, but one of the guys that works at Lucky Scent had recently been to London and had a tiny test vial. He put a bit on a strip and I quite liked. Looking forward to Scent Bar getting a full sampler bottle.

      It wasn't much of a test and my nose isn't one of the best, but my take away was that it is certainly not an aquatic. Didn't get the full dry down, but picked up a good bit of the beeswax as noted above. A lot of notes in this one. (Nice write up orrisboy).

    • argogos | 9th October 2010 21:22

      Another "kitchen sink" pyramid. Let's hope it lives up to all those amazing ingredients unlike so many that boast a host of notes but end up a simple, single note frag.

    • rhodes22 | 16th October 2010 05:37

      four stars for this new offering by Penhaligons

      One of my favorite scents from this house . . . fully body, exotic eastern

      Bravo

    • argogos | 19th October 2010 03:53

      You make it sound perfect. I am really looking forward to it.

    • Persolaise | 20th October 2010 09:01

      I've posted my review here on Basenotes. I was very impressed with Sartorial in an objective, critical way, but sadly, I won't be rushing out to buy a bottle.