Originally Posted by Eluard
:thumbdown: & :thumbup:... OK, The Emperor of Scent
was a cooperation, and they both have quite an audience for their columns on perfume. But that's about all these two men have in common, I believe.
Turin is a scientist in the field of smells and smell perception. He earns his bucks designing fragrances and runs a niche company of his own
in the aroma and fragrance business. He, at least, is believably passionate about perfumery (according to his own accounts from early childhood on), and the first male perfume critic, I think. He may also be the first one who found masculine perfumes bookworthy. And I am still looking for other perfume books which are not strictly written for women, or exclusively about feminine perfumes. And if nothing else matters, he has a natural talent with words.
- 'Turin light' ? Not even that!! Burr is a journalist. He has been more or less successful working as an all-rounder on different subjects. He is the author of a book about the gay gene, and The Emperor
, of course, well written, too! To the best of my knowledge, this is how he got into perfume at the age of 39 (?). He learned from Turin that one could derive an income from perfume columns, and that's what Burr does now: teaching his master (Turin) how one can write for a much bigger audience in America without knowing the least thing about the subject (perfume). Burr's writing gets me cranky any time he tries to be funny. I a smile, feeling the pain that it must have cost him! So it's fragrant dinners with entertainment now, and a cook-book by Chandler tomorrow?
As to their alleged preference for feminine fragrances - I don't know how you see the function of a perfume critic. In their columns, they are always addressing both genders, I like to think. No need to further comment on Burr's personal top ten
. They have been discussed here in extenso (spring 2006, or earlier). It's his taste. He should be responsible enough to hold some of that back in NY, though.
I wonder if anybody knows a couple of fragrances Turin actually wears. He is certainly not biased. Not because he stated that Kouros is sexy and great (for the man who can wear it), but because already his first Perfume Guide is about being open minded and feeling free. We will find that same philosophy in the second, due in April, I am sure. In the French book, he made it a routine to recommend a number of perfumes to both genders, and he described the different effects on the wearer. That was more than ten years before men could discuss the similar matters at BN in a peaceful manner. Quite an innovation then, and still the exception now. But he has also stated more than once (in a nut shell): perfume is not needed for anybody to be perfectly dressed, however at it's best, perfume is much more than a mere accessory! Turin's love for perfume has little to do with its main function - to make the wearer appear more beautiful! Anybody who has seen the man must know that he isn't vain at all.