First Impression sure makes a lasting impression.. And so did lutens for me with Cedre. it has come to a point now where I’m very much bonded with the luten's world of fragrances. just a brief collection on my thoughts on each one I own at this point...
Cedre: It's so intense. Tuberose with deep and sweet oriental vibes. given 1 hour, one can feel the sheer accord of cedar piercing out of a crystallized accord of tuberose and balsamic notes. It’s heavy duty floral and woody scent at the same time. However, it relaxes to a wonderful accord of Cedre towards base.
Musc Kublai Khan: i was prepared to be put off after reading all the scary reviews.. but then, i was pleasantly surprised to find the most delicately composed oriental fragrance ever. just the right amount of everything with no single accord gaining prominence. i get animalic accords mixed with powdery, spicy accords. like a clean Tiger getting a makeup in circus..sounds ridiculous.... in way, it's an sweeter extension of L'Artisan Parfumers Dzing! and i find it much more wearable as well. MKK lingers on me throughout the day. it keeps me enchanted with it's magnificent whiffs..gives me a kind of self assurance. and no..it doesn’t smell like crotch..arm pit. nope.
Borneo 1834: Whoa! massive "lutens size" dose of patchouli with a supporting accord of chocolate. thats ll it is to it...but then... WHOA! the texture is not deep brown.. it's tilting more towards black. it's that intense and the sillage thereafter is just so comforting. there are time when i dab this one while at home. Feels very relaxing. Just one dab on each wrist.
Santal de Mysore: this one was/is my first bell jar form this line.. and what a pleasure to own this juice in a 75ml container! i would never go out of this juice! all the references to curry is so true. it's spice equivalent is the only other masterpiece in this genre and that's Eau Lente by Diptyque. No comparison in terms of smell but the sheer intensity. Santal de Mysore take finest spices like dry cumin seed, star anise crushed into intense balsamic accords. it has one of the most realistic accords at that. the opening is very warm and powdery but, let it settle and it reveals one of the finest accord of sandalwood. the only other sandalwood based fragrance which comes relatively close is Tam Dao...but even that pales in comparison. this is "the" go to sandalwood fragrance. However, i can imagine a few finding the heavy duty spicy face it puts across in opening accords.
Sa Majeste la rose: all of esteemed reviewers are bang on when they mention the word "dew", so true. i agree with one reviewer on the comparison with tea rose. but only 5%. Tea rose is just plain brash, loud and un-wearable. this is much more realistic and a sweeter version with a very classy sillage which is never intense. although this come across as a transparent scent, it’s cleverly crafted to keep the sillage complex and mesmerizing. it’s beauty is in its simplicity of accord and purity of presentation. a must have for those plush dinners in exclusive restaurants.
Chergui: Chergui is a clever fragrance. it smells of hay, green tobacco leaves, leather, vapors of honey and powdery Iris. It’s one of Lutens best releases. It’s sillage exudes light green texture throughout with a milky, vapor like vibe over opulent, aged leather. It’s very hard to understand the purpose of this fragrance at first sniff.. it smells so unlike anything i have sniffed..
Amber Sultan: i guess, after MKK, Amber sultan is one of Lutens most famous releases. Sure, it has a very spicy opening.. so intense.. i almost smell blood in it. very sharp opening. the key accord in opening is tarragon. Mélange of bright spices subside to reveal a rather simple yet beautiful accord of Amber..an amber dry and dusty in nature with a soft, mellow, orange accord. it's also one of those scents which suits shines in summers. quite a relief actually..
Gris Clair: right from the first time I sampled it and up till now... I cannot shake of that lava association. a very gloomy, smoky fragrance with a heavy dose of lavender. a dress scent and by no mean a casual wear. one of my all time favorites.
Serge Noire: Plain sexy. crisp sweetness with a delicate accord of camphor and incense. has a gothic vibe to it and smells surreal all the way. between this sweet accord lies juicy green accord.. the combination is truly mesmerizing. I can imagine wearing it to a Type O Negative concert..
Arabie: smells like dried dry fruits, bitter orangel peel, heavy duty spices like cumin and clove.. smells dry and juicy at a time..goes on to create a really austere accord which brings toger fruits and spices. the balance is intoxicating and smells wonderful thruout the day. love it one vacations or long drive..
Five o'Clock Au Gingembre: Peppery dark ginger with a lovely twist of chocolate. it's a fantastic gourmand which is refreshing and at the same time, very classy. i was disillusioned by this really off sample and had all the wrong opinions about it.. but a recently acquired bottle changed all that.
All the 11 scents by lutens have made a certain and positive impact in my contnuing pursuit
of testing fragrances. lutens is here to stay in my wardrobe and i still have so many more to test.. Iris Silver Mist, el Attairne..et al.
Do you have any favorites from this line...has this line made a last impression on you...?