Some perfumes, rather than attempting to stop perfume time (Bulgari Black), embrace it wholeheartedly. Such is the case with Penhaligon's Amaranthine, which is a pretty white floral one moment and a husky come-on the next, resulting from milky lactones deepening a familiar fruity-floral structure. Great, unpretentious fun, and interesting all the way through.
Amaranthine by Penhaligon's, 2009
Rated #978 in Fragrances
I read the reviews to get a handle on this fragrance but it left me more confused. The descriptions of Amaranthine are unlike my experience. I'm getting something so different I think my skin is taking this in its own direction. Its name for me is Ambiguithine. But I like it's chameleon like propensity, nonetheless. The opening on me is a dominant dry green leafy note, similar to CdG's "Calamus", all that banana leaf/coriander/tea/cardamon vibe. The freesia note is subtle, more a modifier that keeps the opening from being strictly green, makes it more an ambiguous cool green. It slowly becomes more voluptuous, more smooth, more coolly floral, but the green note still has a huge presence, and drives the fragrance for me. There is no heat in it - it's cool, subtle, a little iconoclastic. Where is the naughty note, the corrupted flower? The clove, the ylang-ylang? Apparently my skin cleaned it up. The drydown is only vaguely milky and lightly sweeter, but it's by no means a comfort note. With that base it should be fairly strong. But I keep getting that dry green note all the way into drydown. My conclusion is whatever that green note, my skin is picking it up and amplifying it. Which is fine - the fragrance just is what it is on a person. I have problems wiith frags when I have expectations and I expected a little bit of skank in this. But none is there. What I get is intriguing, nonetheless, and unique. I call this fragrance cool floral green. I like it - 4 out of 5 stars.
This has been my favourite perfume for about 12 months. Normally I'm not that enthusiastic about floral scents, but the spicy elements in this really appealled to me. When I first apply it I get a strong, crisp green-floral scent with a bit of a sharp edge. Within a couple of minutes I find the scent warms up and the sharpness transitions into a complex mix of spices and there is a definite stage where I notice the clove and sandalwood scent more so than any distinct florals. Interestingly, my friend tried this once and none of the depth in this fragrance seemed to come out on her skin. Within 2-3 minutes of contact the perfume had turned into a very soapy flowery scent and I couldn't identify any of the herbal/spice elements. Goes to show how influential skin chemistry and pH can be, I suppose. My one real complaint about this scent is its longevity. Considering the price of Penhaligon products, this perfume is quite short lived- on me about 2-3 hours max. You need a purse atomiser if you want it around all day.
Top note smelled like I had just moisturized with the catch of the day. Drydown was nicer but not so extraordinary as to warrant the purchase price (for my money, anyway).
Mmmmmm.... peppery hothouse flowers and greenery drying down to condensed milk and cocao. I love it! It's bears a lot of resemblance to L'Artisan Parfumeur's Poivre Piquant (another Duchafour), but whereas I don't like PP, I like this alot
Green/white floral and jungle green. Tropical over-ripeness and sweat. The opening makes my mind shout "Heart of Darkness" while picturing some place hot, green and lush - the Amazon, Thailand, Hawaii. A dark and tangled rainforest with white flowers blooming within. Under and over and through it all is the spicy tang of sweat - like the fetchingly soaked cotton shirt of our heroine as she pushes her way through the forbidding foliage. There is the anticipation of a mysterious encounter. A fine tension, as Off-scenter so aptly noted. This is not something I can personally imagine wearing - but it's a remarkably evocative and well-crafted scent.
This strikes me as another interpretation of their Zizonia, a scent from the 1930s. Amarinthe is a sensual, warm scent with the intoxicating suggestion of a warm body oils mixed within. The green tea, jasmine, and musk are all evident at first splash - I was reminded of Caswell Massey's Casma - vanilla, rose, sandalwood then mix with these initial notes and bring about that warm accord. In the drydown I am reminded of the effect of sweetened cedarwood, although that is not listed as an ingredient. A more complex version of Zizonia and a better buy than the older scent, in my opinion Strictly speaking, this is a fougere - warm, round and comforting.
I could absolutely cry. First because I love this fragrance. From the first sniff to it's dry-down. It is luxurious, rich, smolderingly sexy and sumptuous. Definitely worth sticking my nose to my arm repeatedly to catch every nuance. There is not a note that seems off or unpleasant to me. Even the opening which with some I simply wait for them to pass. The second reason I could cry is that it is gone from my skin in about 30 minutes. Not a trace of a whiff even nose to skin can it be detected. Such a pity. As this could easily become a favorite for me. It will get a thumbs up because it is soo beautifully balanced even if on me the longevity is lacking. Apparently I have certain scents that I love so much my body just totally absorbs them :)
My sample seems to be a bit different than I recall in the store. When it first went on this time I was reminded of L'Artisan's Mimosa pour Moi and possibly, Malle's En Passant. There is a sweet white flower dominating. I guess it could be Magnolia. Then it settles into a creamy jasmineness with cardamon . This is a kissing cousin to Safran Troublant (one of my favourites) FOR SURE. Now I'm straining for the milk notes, the banana notes, the dirty notes...to add distinction to this fluffed out floral. Hmm. Still waiting. I find the sweet white flower making a come back giving me a slight headache..maybe in colder weather I'll try again.
I just adore this, to me it's hothouse flowers and Chai tea on a steamy afternoon. I can just picture myself there!
Amaranthine by Penhaligon's, 2009
|Top Notes||Green Tea, White Freesia, Banana Tree Leaf, Coriander Seed Oil, Cardamom|
|Middle Notes||Rose, Carnation, Clove, Orange Blossom, Ylang-ylang, Egyptian Jasmine|
|Base Notes||Musk, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Condensed Milk, Tonka Bean|
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