Ambra / Amber by Santa Maria Novella, 1828

I think Ambra is misunderstood by the reviewers. Forget about Shalimar or Ambre114, Ambra is amber in the 19th century way, which is also the original way as we can see it with Eau des Merveilles: something salty. In Ambra this marine base is mixed with birch tar in an amazing way not very gothic but not modern either. Really worth a try for those who look for something original.

Dont expect much from SMNs Amber (Ambra) if you dont care for birch tar. This one is typically SMN in the opening harsh but bearable and charmingly rustic... and then it goes to what to me is a very disagreeable birch note, and that note pretty much continues through the run of the fragrance. The amber, shows up later, but is weak, arid, and not especially an adequate representative of the concept of amber. Luckily the fragrance doesnt last. I love the Santa Maria Novella fragrances they have a rustic charm and admirable dedication to Italian tradition. Unfortunately, in addition to its charm and dedication, this one also has birch tar. SMN has many, many fragrances better than this one

I've tried quite a few SMNs by now, and this is the only clunker I've yet to come across from this house. Instead of a robust amber, this fragrance is transparent and feels very synthetic. Nearly any other niche amber would be better, which is surprising because SMN's own Amber/Lavender is quite good, and very rich.

If you want something sweet from SMN, go with the Vaniglia.

For some reason, Basenotes has both "Amber" and "Ambra" listed in the Directory as SMN fragrances. I think they are the same, with "Ambra" being the Italian word for "Amber."

Anyway, I think this fragrant is a bit misleadingly named. It's really got more birch tar than amber. It opens loud and harsh, as many SMN frags are wont to do; think herbal and bitter, and a little off-kilter, possibly "gothic" (though to be honest, I'm not sure what that means when it comes to fragrance). As it dries down, the amber comes into play, but it is light at that point, more a powdery, semi-sweet skin scent than the voluptuous amber I am used to smelling in other fragrances. My main complaint is that on me it doesn't last.